Will unlevel NT carb cause leaks?

[Emcee]

I have two NT carbs. I adjusted the arms that go in the bowl. I did it first to an old carb so I assumed it was a bad gasket. So I bent the arms on the second one and it leaked too. Me bending the arms on the carb, is it somehow correlated? I thought maybe my car wasn't balanced but it doesn't appear to be that.

I did it because I was following what another person did when they were having problems with their top speed.

 

[DistantWolrld101]

Carby - NT Carb Tuning Basics

A few basics on the Happytime NT Carburetor:- Some pics identifying the basic parts:- Float Bowl Gasket Also see srdavo's NT Carburetor Assembly Pics for a bit more info. Brief Description Of Operation The NT side-draught carburetor operates by drawing air into the air...

motoredbikes.com

also on the nt carbs be ready for some blow back where the filter is.

 

[Chainlube]

If the float is more than 21mm, there won't be enough fuel in the emulsion tube to keep the engine running smoothly.

 

[Emcee]

I f***ed both carbs up to no return. Had to order a new one

 

[Chainlube]

I f***ed both carbs up to no return. Had to order a new one

Can't be done, those carbs are too simple. Post a couple pictures, we'll see if we can straighten you out.

 

[Emcee]

Can't be done, those carbs are too simple. Post a couple pictures, we'll see if we can straighten you out.

I will post pics tomorrow. I messed up the arms on it pretty bad on both. It filled up with fuel so bad that it was coming out of the air filter

Side note. With jetting, why am I seeing people changing the jet by taking a flat head screwdriver and changing it out and then other people saying to solder and drill new holes etc. I started learning about it an hour ago and I'm confused on the difference. I have crank seals to replace and if it doesn't work then I'm looking at changing the jet. 500 ft elevation.

 

[Chainlube]

I will post pics tomorrow. I messed up the arms on it pretty bad on both. It filled up with fuel so bad that it was coming out of the air filter

Side note. With jetting, why am I seeing people changing the jet by taking a flat head screwdriver and changing it out and then other people saying to solder and drill new holes etc. I started learning about it an hour ago and I'm confused on the difference. I have crank seals to replace and if it doesn't work then I'm looking at changing the jet. 500 ft elevation.

How do you know you need new crank seals?

Guys solder and drill the jets because at their elevation they need an odd number jet and the jets only come in even numbers. Those numbers are fractions of a mm. Some guys are just cheap and would rather buy tools than parts because you need a set of micro drill bits.

 

[Emcee]

How do you know you need new crank seals?

Guys solder and drill the jets because at their elevation they need an odd number jet and the jets only come in even numbers. Those numbers are fractions of a mm. Some guys are just cheap and would rather buy tools than parts because you need a set of micro drill bits.

I took off the magneto cover, and ran starting fluid behind the magnet. I have a tachometer now and not only did the RPMs drop the first time but it stalled out instantly that very second.

Once I get the crank seals taken care of, hopefully that solves it and if not I will look at tuning the carb. I want to do this the right way and not chase my tail.

I did do the seal behind the small clutch gear, my RPMs did go up and started acting crazy. Most magneto crank seals come with the thicker one for under the clutch case. I know most parts you buy online are just the kits broken down so I don't want to buy another s**tty seal and run into the same problem. Is this a scenario where if I have the measurements I can just buy a seal? Similar to getting the measurements of nuts and bolts and buying better quality ones or no?

So if you need an even number just undo the jet and put an even number on? I know these cars are .70mm, my elevation is avg 500 feet so I think it calls for .68 or .69, I have the calculations back home.

Also, somehow I lost the arm the arm to one of my carbs. The other carb I have on the bike so when I get home I'll take some pictures. I have a JRL NT carb on the way if I can't get this right.

I feel bad for the people who think this is a plug and play scenario because it's far from it. One thing I learned is unless you're willing to get your hands dirty then don't even bother. I enjoy working on it and getting to understand it better.

 

[DAMIEN1307]

Guys solder and drill the jets because at their elevation...

And even being at a 4500 ft altitude, I have never once had to resort to that...NTs and my present JRL BoFengs using the stock #70 jets work perfectly fine at my altitude once I lean it out with the needle valve and replace the stock air filter with a 360* low profile K&N knockoff filter so it can breathe properly.

 

[Chainlube]

I took off the magneto cover, and ran starting fluid behind the magnet. I have a tachometer now and not only did the RPMs drop the first time but it stalled out instantly that very second.

Once I get the crank seals taken care of, hopefully that solves it and if not I will look at tuning the carb. I want to do this the right way and not chase my tail.

I did do the seal behind the small clutch gear, my RPMs did go up and started acting crazy. Most magneto crank seals come with the thicker one for under the clutch case. I know most parts you buy online are just the kits broken down so I don't want to buy another s**tty seal and run into the same problem. Is this a scenario where if I have the measurements I can just buy a seal? Similar to getting the measurements of nuts and bolts and buying better quality ones or no?

So if you need an even number just undo the jet and put an even number on? I know these cars are .70mm, my elevation is avg 500 feet so I think it calls for .68 or .69, I have the calculations back home.

Also, somehow I lost the arm the arm to one of my carbs. The other carb I have on the bike so when I get home I'll take some pictures. I have a JRL NT carb on the way if I can't get this right.

I feel bad for the people who think this is a plug and play scenario because it's far from it. One thing I learned is unless you're willing to get your hands dirty then don't even bother. I enjoy working on it and getting to understand it better.

It probably stalled because you got the magnet wet, electrics don't like being wet. Get a propane torch for that area, start the bike, pop the cover off, open the propane valve and stick the nozzle right in there. The rpms will pick up if there's a leak.