Woodruff woes

Wolfie65

Active Member
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Joined
Aug 24, 2015
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Location
Albuquerque, NM
Got the new clutch drive sprocket and this one does feed the chain in a normal fashion, however, it would not fit over the woodruff key, no matter how hard I pushed.
Even gentle tapping with a hammer did nothing.
So I pulled the key and sure enough, the slot on the sprocket is too tight by about 1 hair's breadth - 1/18 1/2 of a milimeter....-so I filed.
And filed and filed, until other chores and the weather told me to pack it up.
It kinda fits now, I hope the hammering didn't damage anything, I might find out tomorrow if the chain path is ok and everything works, at last in 'dry' condition.
 
Got the new clutch drive sprocket and this one does feed the chain in a normal fashion, however, it would not fit over the woodruff key, no matter how hard I pushed.
Even gentle tapping with a hammer did nothing.
So I pulled the key and sure enough, the slot on the sprocket is too tight by about 1 hair's breadth - 1/18 1/2 of a milimeter....-so I filed.
And filed and filed, until other chores and the weather told me to pack it up.
It kinda fits now, I hope the hammering didn't damage anything, I might find out tomorrow if the chain path is ok and everything works, at last in 'dry' condition.
Some days you get the bull, others the bull gets you by the horns.
 
No, there wasn't any need to hold anything while tapping.
I did, however, have to take the whole thing apart a few times to check for fit, and as it it turned out, the inside diameter of the new sprocket was just a hair too small to fully fit over the shaft - woodruff or no woodruff - so back to filing.
Lots and lots and LOTS of filing......
Seems to work now, the chain feeds well and the master link - which is wider than the rest of the chain by about a millimeter - no longer gets stuck inside the housing.
Next question: how straight is the chain path and will 1 tensioner suffice.......
 
No, there wasn't any need to hold anything while tapping.
I did, however, have to take the whole thing apart a few times to check for fit, and as it it turned out, the inside diameter of the new sprocket was just a hair too small to fully fit over the shaft - woodruff or no woodruff - so back to filing.
Lots and lots and LOTS of filing......
Seems to work now, the chain feeds well and the master link - which is wider than the rest of the chain by about a millimeter - no longer gets stuck inside the housing.
Next question: how straight is the chain path and will 1 tensioner suffice.......
A hand reamer is cheap and will save you tons of time and wear on the hands. You twist it like a drill bit with your hand to remove material. You can buy them for drills too. I use them on a drill press, no hand junk for me. But if you are strapped for cash, a hand reamer is the way to go. Or fire up the engine and wet sand the shaft, under it's own power.
 
I like the hand stuff - if you've ever watched The Woodwright's Workshop on PBS, that's kinda my style.
Works even during power outages or after shhtf.
Not sure if I've ever seen hand reamers in any of the stores here, the last independent tool shop went belly up MANY years ago, I doubt that Homeless Dump (formerly Home Depot) or Shanghai Fleight (formerly Harbor Freight) have anything like that, I go to an Army surplus store for nuts and bolts.....and buttons....
Also, using power tools might freak out the animal population, which I'd rather avoid.
Was able to check on the chain path today, seems ok, I can't put the stock tensioner back as far as I would like because of the extra thick chainstays, maybe I'll get some longer bolts or maybe I'll go with the dual tensioner system, which is working well on the Huffy-Ferrari.
The chain guard will have to be altered in some way, probably just need to tin snip a piece out of it to clear the seat stay.
 
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