Worksman and the 80cc engine - will it fit?

[vabeachnet]

Hello Group!

The Worksman cruiser I have has the double horizontal bar frame, which may not leave enough room to install one of the 80cc (70cc) engines. Does anyone know if it's possible, and if so whether I need to do any modifications to make it work?

Thanks!

Rocky

 

[vabeachnet]

Here's a photo of a similar frame. Mine is chrome plated. I was thinking about having the engine chromed. It would be quite the eye catcher, don't ya think?

Thanks!

Rocky

 

[uncle_punk13]

I haven't heard about the fit of this combo yet. I have a buddy that is doing the same thing. Iknoew the Whizzer will not fit, but the Chinese 80 may- though it will be a tight fit.
I'll talk to him and see how it's going and if there's any tipps concerning clearance issues i'll let you know...

 

[vabeachnet]

Thanks Uncle Punk! I'm doing some investigating on my own. Either way, we'll end up with an answer. I'm a little surprised that this question hasn't come up before. Worksman makes the strongest, (and heaviest), bicycles you can buy anywhere. If I'm adding a motor to a bike and intend to drive it at speeds in excess of 30 miles per hour, I want it to be TOUGH.

I went to the local Worksman dealer and they told me a story about a Worksman that was dredged up out of the river near the Norfolk VA waterfront. They washed it off, hit it with naval jelly to get rid of the rust, put new tires on it and it rides like a dream. Just like new. They called Worksman with the serial number from the frame and found that it was from 1953. Who knows how long it was under water!

Take care and THANKS!

Rocky

 

[psuggmog]

My hawthorne ratbike has a double top tube and a 48ccgrube roundhead motor fits. Your lower toptube is lower than mine. It might took neat to cut out a clearence window in the lower toptube and fill it in with a curved section to clear the cyclinder head.

 

[antique-rider]

Well I'm giving it a try right now, so far it looks do-able, but the welded on tabs for the chain guard are in the way, and it sits low enough it almost hits the front sprocket. when I get the tabs off I'll see how it fits. what I think will happen is, first mount the engine to the seat post, then where ever the front mount ends up, build a spacer block up to it. mabey have to use a short sparkplug too.

 

[uncle_punk13]

LOVE the Iver psug.!!! Is that one of yours?
Thanks 'Rider, keep us posted.
BTW-
Got the 2004 Whizzer Pacemaker II home yesterday. It runs like crap with that darn restrictor in the intake. I would have had it out by now but I can't find my little remover kit thingee (you know, for removing broken studs, tubes, etc.) I took the baffle out of the exhaust and it sounded cool, but I was worried about burning up a valve, so I took the fiberglass packing off of it and put it back in. I'm gonna work on it some more, to give it a bit more breathe-ability, but I don't want to run a completely open pipe...
Gads it sounded noisey and cool though!

 

[srdavo]

Well I'm giving it a try right now, so far it looks do-able, but the welded on tabs for the chain guard are in the way, and it sits low enough it almost hits the front sprocket. when I get the tabs off I'll see how it fits. what I think will happen is, first mount the engine to the seat post, then where ever the front mount ends up, build a spacer block up to it. mabey have to use a short sparkplug too.

For the china engines Champion CJ7Y is a very short plug.
You can also change to a smaller front pedal sprocket to mount your engine even lower.

 

[antique-rider]

Yup, I Thought of changing the sprocket too. But that means I'll have to find one in my stuff, I wouldn't dare spend any money!![/quote]

 

[antique-rider]

Well I ground the tabs off of the frame, first thing, the tubing diameter is smaller than the engine mount holes, so I have to shim that up, and second, with the seat tube mount in place the front mount is completly the wrong angle, or I should say the tube is the wrong angle. I'll use the steel bar method and twist the two ends to line up with the angle of the engine mount.