Would you believe I'm planning my next build? (4 Stroke Content)

[Irish John]

Irish John's new project

Sorry guys, I didn't knowI could start my own project. I'll do that tonight (our time in Australia) but it looks like I'll need your advice. Didn't know that this was Sheik Yabouti's project but we are both on the same project path.I will research the grubee kit and the horizontal Honda engine. The advice I get here is exactly what I've been looking for for years. Re the springer fork it's not the spring I don't trust - it's the whole assembly. The structural pivot points etc are just total Chinese crud. I wouldn't trust them at speed especially near the coast where they rust in days. It's a pity that a design that has been around nearly as long as the Penny Farthing bike should be reduced to such a crappy state. They are, however, so beautiful a design that whoever starts making them properly will probably find a good market for them.
Incidentally have you ever seen the French Derny motorized bikes that were made in the 1930s & 40s to serve as pacers in the big cycle races they hold in Europe. 90cc 2-strokes with a special frame that could keep up a very high speed over big distances and could accellerate and decellerate very smoothly to allow riders to slipstream them. Beautiful things! They are still in service in Europe.
Look forward to communicating with you all. tera, Irish John

 

[gone_fishin]

it's not the spring I don't trust - it's the whole assembly.

yup, don has a genuine 70's(80's?) schwinn springer, the difference in construction is like nite & day. sheik, if yer interested in using the retro-springer, you might do well to go shopping for the real deal

john...just start a "my build" or "whatever" topic, and journal your
thoughts, questions, & progress for the next new guy

 

[Sheik Yerbouti]

yup, don has a genuine 70's(80's?) schwinn springer, the difference in construction is like nite & day. sheik, if yer interested in using the retro-springer, you might do well to go shopping for the real deal

john...just start a "my build" or "whatever" topic, and journal your
thoughts, questions, & progress for the next new guy

It's from the late 80s, back when they put side pull posts on it. I can get you a picture if you'd wish.

 

[Irish John]

Sorry to but in...

Sorry to but in but I'm just back from the bike shop in Byron Bay Australia where I went to ogle over my new Schwinn Alloy Seven Cruise Missile. It has 7-speed twist shifter derailleur gear and I thought I'd need to change it to ezy-fire levers but on close inspection I find it's not necessary for the reason you intimated in your message. The twister can go further up the handlebar from the throttle and considering that you motor mostly in your highest gear you only need to change down on a hill. I'll cut the end of the throttle grip to achieve a flush finish between it and the twist grip. It will actually be a design improvement if I'm careful. Will be doing it next week so I'll keep you informed. The less **** on my bars the cleaner the look is what I reckon. Less is more and form is function or whatever. Cheers, Irish John - soon to be known as "The Blue Blur" cos the Scwinn is blue.

Great info oscully!

I've basically come to realize that due to budget limitations, I'm going to have to make a trade-off somewhere, and I think I found out where. The army bike is really cool, but a custom tank would leech the money right out of my wallet.

I decided I'm going with a bike that can be had locally (no shipping costs), that comes with side-pull brakes. I found a Schwinn Cruiser through target that would work out pretty much perfectly. The lack of fenders is a worry, but not a huge one. And this way I can keep my budget down to 500 bucks.

The bike is here.

With the money I save (40 bucks or so) I can get the better kit through bicycle-engines. My one concern with that bike is the grip shifters. Would I have to buy a whole new shifting system or could I just shimmy them down the handle bars far enough th keep them?

 

[gone_fishin]

john...i'd so love to be seeing these posts of yours about your build in yer own thread.

it's not "butting in"...from a forum-maintenance standpoint, it's poor organization, & i need to get you on-track

 

[Sheik Yerbouti]

Update on my braking situation.

Now I have springers with v bosses on the front, and I want to do a v-brake on the back as well. I found a mounting plate that adds the studs on the back, I could mount it on the bar (I guess they call them seat stays?). Well, that spans the two stays doesn't look welded in place, it looks like it's lugged or pinned or something. So my plan is to get the frame blasted, then maybe use the MIG welder to add a little strength to that particular area, and then use this plate. My question is...are the stays going to be strong enough to support the brake?

I'll try to get a picture of the back soon.

Here's the plate:

http://www.danscomp.com/489051.php

 

[Scottm]

Uncle Punk suggested that I do the same on my bike. Braze or spot weld the chain stays and dropouts and also the cross tube to the head tube if it's not welded. Here's my rear dropout just pressed not welded http://www.motoredbikes.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4562&d=1203793584

If you weld that plate to each of the stays, I would think it would make things more solid back there. That's just my thinking.

 

[Sheik Yerbouti]

Uncle Punk suggested that I do the same on my bike. Braze or spot weld the chain stays and dropouts and also the cross tube to the head tube if it's not welded. Here's my rear dropout just pressed not welded http://www.motoredbikes.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4562&d=1203793584

If you weld that plate to each of the stays, I would think it would make things more solid back there. That's just my thinking.

The plate bolts on, so I was just thinking about reinforcing the joints by welding and just using the hardware the plate comes with for making a moveable mount (I don't want to have it aligned poorly and then be stuck there). I think if I hit these spots it'll be plenty strong for the v-brakes. The steel on the frame is still in great condition. I've had plenty of welding practice in the past few days, so hopefully my welds will be nice and pretty.

 

[fetor56]

Update on my braking situation.

Now I have springers with v bosses on the front, and I want to do a v-brake on the back as well. I found a mounting plate that adds the studs on the back, I could mount it on the bar (I guess they call them seat stays?). Well, that spans the two stays doesn't look welded in place, it looks like it's lugged or pinned or something. So my plan is to get the frame blasted, then maybe use the MIG welder to add a little strength to that particular area, and then use this plate. My question is...are the stays going to be strong enough to support the brake?

I'll try to get a picture of the back soon.

Here's the plate:

http://www.danscomp.com/489051.php

Didn't know something like this existed till now.....handy find man,thanks.

 

[reclaimer]

That plate is pretty cool. Any idea how wide they are? I'd much rather have that than a side pull.