Your preference on reinforcing nuts on our engines

bakaneko

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Hello. I was wondering what folks preference are to reinforcing the nuts on your engines. I prefer double nutting because I can remove them easily for maintenance or whatnot. Here is the list of methods and my thoughts. What's your preferred method?

- Double nut = Can easily remove the nuts, a very few can still come out
- Friction nut = Looks like a good method but I am not sure on application strength, never used it
- Loctite = I think the preferred method of vendors and most bikers, but isn't removing it difficult (blue)
- Lock washer = Probably the lowest cost method and easily removable; but for our engines does it work?
- Nothing = :eek:
 
these are not motorcycles made in a nice factory with quality metal parts - none of those fixes will keep a fitting tight when the POS bolt or stud stretches

just learn to check tightness regularly or replace all studs & bolts with better quality steel
 
Red Loctite where you want things to stay forever. Blue Loctite everywhere else although nylocks with lock wagers will do fine on the sprocket rag joint.
 
these are not motorcycles made in a nice factory with quality metal parts - none of those fixes will keep a fitting tight when the POS bolt or stud stretches

just learn to check tightness regularly or replace all studs & bolts with better quality steel

Ya, I replaced many of the bolts too. But, once you replace the bolts and nuts, do you do anything specific for the nuts?
 
I double-nut the gas tank, but other places, I just check periodically since the bike frame was not designed for the speed & vibration of the motor, I feel it is best to always keep an eye on things.
 
belleville washers and double nuts for me. I tear it down too often to hassle with loctite. if it's something not likely to ever need removal I might use safety wire.
 
lock washers on what nuts i do have. head and tank only.
the rest are Allen key cap screws with lock washers, on intake and exhaust. allen key cap screws all thru rest of engine as well. none of them have come loose in well into 3000miles.
I ride daily.
 
The perfect solution, with 1000 other uses, SHOE-GOO!It's flexible, so vibrations don't effect it.I prefer the threads and nut to be a little dirty so it comes off easier, if you have any problems removing, gasoline dissolves it!
Tighten your nut, place a little on your finger smear the thread/nut base, and where the nut flushes to what it's mounting to, you'll never have to touch it again.
For clarity, I ride only GEBE, once adjusted it requires no further work in regards to bolts/nuts, if you ride a CG shoe-goo may not be a good deal as most CG are tinker things, need to constantly adjust/remove/replace/adjust/affix/repeat.
 
im a nothing :eek: type man....

ok, ok, i admittedly have double nutted the odd engine stud, but then, when i used bolts rather than studs and nuts... couldnt do that ;)


having the really really thick engine mounting brackets that dont bend, and that allow you to get some decent tension on the nuts really helps ;)

and lock/spring/star washers...me with legwon :)
 
my engine is mounted tight enough that I could pull the nuts off one side and it still pass the grab and yank test
 
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