Zeda 85 porting suggestions

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Joined
Nov 9, 2023
Messages
88
Location
New Iberia, La
I am ready to open up the jug on the Zeda Firestorm85.I am about to purchase a true expansion chamber and I will be looking for a domed piston replacement. While I’m at it I’d like to source a higher compression head. I have zero experience settings squish or even knowing what would be be optimal for this specific engine. I will definitely be purchasing an upgraded wrist pin bearing. I’m sure the replacement piston should come with its reaper wrist pin bearing. The only other thing I can think of is to purchase and install a reed valve. I have zero experience with those. I want the powerband to begin in the upper rpm range. I’m running a 28 tooth on a 26” rim. I think my rear tire is 26X2.125 so it’s tall. I don’t want to turn crazy rpm’s that could reduce reliability. Can you guys give me advice on the things I want to do?
IMG_3204.jpeg
 
It could reduce reliability. Can you guys give me advice on the things I want to do?
An accurate port map would be a good place to start. Hoping it doesn't grenade itself or snag the intake port being the other half of it.
I've heard good stuff about the Gomax head

Yeah, I got some advice for ya.

You want to leave the damn thing alone and totally stock until you get it broken in for at least 310 miles using a 20:1 mix ratio of convention oil and gas that is hopefully Ethanol-Free to get everything settled in before doing any modifications whatsoever.

Especially if their is anything wrong with the base unit and you might need to use that 6 month warranty that bicycle-engines.com has on all of their Zeda motor kits.
 
I am ready to open up the jug on the Zeda Firestorm85.I am about to purchase a true expansion chamber and I will be looking for a domed piston replacement. While I’m at it I’d like to source a higher compression head. I have zero experience settings squish or even knowing what would be be optimal for this specific engine. I will definitely be purchasing an upgraded wrist pin bearing. I’m sure the replacement piston should come with its reaper wrist pin bearing. The only other thing I can think of is to purchase and install a reed valve. I have zero experience with those. I want the powerband to begin in the upper rpm range. I’m running a 28 tooth on a 26” rim. I think my rear tire is 26X2.125 so it’s tall. I don’t want to turn crazy rpm’s that could reduce reliability. Can you guys give me advice on the things I want to do? View attachment 222364
Where would you get a dome piston?
 
Yeah, I got some advice for ya.

You want to leave the damn thing alone and totally stock until you get it broken in for at least 310 miles using a 20:1 mix ratio of convention oil and gas that is hopefully Ethanol-Free to get everything settled in before doing any modifications whatsoever.

Especially if their is anything wrong with the base unit and you might need to use that 6 month warranty that bicycle-engines.com has on all of their Zeda motor kits.
That’s what I’ve been doing. All I’ve done to it is put the PZ20 on it and went with the E.3 plug. I may go back with the bofeng and dremmel a notch into the upper part of the bore(cathedral style). I’ve heard good things about that. I’ve been doing the 20-1 conventional mix. I do have a non-ethanol gas station here in town but I just started working in Florida so it doesn’t always get the non-ethanol all the time.
 
I take it you joined this forum to get advice and learn all you can about these engines, that’s why I joined. You have been given good solid to the point advice, whether you decide to use it is entirely up to you, but think about conclusions to what you’re wanting to do. Usually when you do 1 mod it takes 2 or 3 more to make the first one work properly. Break your engine in properly and THINK about what you’re wanting to get out of your bike. After doing this, plan your up grades in steps and follow a plan. Just an old farts advice, take it or leave it.
 
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