Zeda stage 2 issues

[Randall]

The crank is supposed to be very well balanced...they list that as a feature on the motor.

Those motors in general have great features to them and quite powerful even stock.

Im doing my first build ever and getting one of these motors myself...after looking around for the price i dont see a better motor anywhere.

Oh okay I guess I missed that. Thanks

 

[gary55]

70 ft lbs is what I torque the axle on my motorcycle to so I figured that was in lbs

Hopefully this has some balls to it soon.

I'm not looking for huge top speeds, just something that rips til about 35. My commute to school and around town is 25 mph roads with stop signs and stop lights everywhere.

Oh, and I need to be faster than my dad's Honda metropolitan. Lololol

Everybody has their own preferences. My torque chart says 144 to 168 in, lbs. 12 to 14 ft. lbs. Stock heads I go 156 after market 168

 

[Sumsloppymeet]

I can say i recieved a stage 2 gold kit myself and am still waitting on a topend replacement due to some stuff in my combustion chamber on my first run but have decided to take the stage 2 up a notch and put a dio reed kit on it to see how it performs so far tho i havent been able to ride tho

 

[crassius]

type of head makes no diff for torque - limit is about how much the threads in the case can bear

 

[gary55]

I'm just always a little leery of pulling the corners down on stock heads where with after market heads it isn't a issue.

 

[Freeman Keith]

Hello all,

I've got a stage 2 zeda (shark head, zeda reed, window piston, ported by zeda), HP carb (the cheap ebay one with a pod filter), mz65 pipe, NGK B6HS plug, and gasbike cdi. I've taken the reed apart and used Mazda RTV gasket maker where the reed bolts to itself. I've tried the stock cdi and plug as well.

I still can not get this thing to run right. I tried the 70 jet that came in the carb. It would bog at anything past half throttle until it was running, then it would sluggishly rev all the way after it was very hot. But idled crazy high, and would hang really badly when I pulled the clutch in. A 75 jet was better. Now I have an 80 jet in it and it's the best it's been. Pulls the hardest it ever has (still slow though), idles the best it has, still has a little bit of rev hang when I clutch in after a pull, but that's the best it's been. But it seems like a dog compared to my $100 ebay kit with the stock pipe and nt carb I have on another bike.

Keep jetting it richer? 80 seems stupid rich for these little engines. I've never heard of one needing a jet this high. It isn't smoking out the pipe and isn't 4 stroking as far as I can tell. I still need to check the float height. Is 21 mm accurate for HP carbs as well? I ordered some larger jets to try. Anything else I should check on this thing?

I have not tried running this stage 2 with the NT carb which I suppose I could try.

And lastly, is there a cylinder head torque spec for the cnc aluminum? I'm out of ideas or things to check.

#80 jet is the smallest and the #60 jet is the largest. The stock #70 jet is in the middle. I had the same problem with one of my engines. It always wanted to run to rich. I made sure to seal everything so no air leaks. I ended up going to a Stehl chainsaw carb so I would have needle valves that controlled both high and low end. Seems to have solved the problem, but still has no bottom end and won't climb the hills around here. Maybe after Break in it will be better. I am running rich on the bottom end and I've leaned it out, on the fly, to where the engine is running in 2 stroke. Final thing, these 2 stroke engines need to be warmed up COMPLETELY before expecting them to run right. a full 3 minute warmup is a good starting point, at idle and at a stand still. The head, cylinder and the crankcase need to be brought up to operating temperature.

 

[Chainlube]

#80 jet is the smallest and the #60 jet is the largest. The stock #70 jet is in the middle. I had the same problem with one of my engines. It always wanted to run to rich. I made sure to seal everything so no air leaks. I ended up going to a Stehl chainsaw carb so I would have needle valves that controlled both high and low end. Seems to have solved the problem, but still has no bottom end and won't climb the hills around here. Maybe after Break in it will be better. I am running rich on the bottom end and I've leaned it out, on the fly, to where the engine is running in 2 stroke. Final thing, these 2 stroke engines need to be warmed up COMPLETELY before expecting them to run right. a full 3 minute warmup is a good starting point, at idle and at a stand still. The head, cylinder and the crankcase need to be brought up to operating temperature.

Yea, 4 year old thread, the boys probably figured it out by now.

 

[gary55]

#80 jet is the smallest and the #60 jet is the largest. The stock #70 jet is in the middle. I had the same problem with one of my engines. It always wanted to run to rich. I made sure to seal everything so no air leaks. I ended up going to a Stehl chainsaw carb so I would have needle valves that controlled both high and low end. Seems to have solved the problem, but still has no bottom end and won't climb the hills around here. Maybe after Break in it will be better. I am running rich on the bottom end and I've leaned it out, on the fly, to where the engine is running in 2 stroke. Final thing, these 2 stroke engines need to be warmed up COMPLETELY before expecting them to run right. a full 3 minute warmup is a good starting point, at idle and at a stand still. The head, cylinder and the crankcase need to be brought up to operating temperature.

Yes 4 years old and how do you figure a #80 jet is smaller than a #60?

 

[Street Ryderz]

#80 jet is the smallest and the #60 jet is the largest. The stock #70 jet is in the middle. I had the same problem with one of my engines. It always wanted to run to rich. I made sure to seal everything so no air leaks. I ended up going to a Stehl chainsaw carb so I would have needle valves that controlled both high and low end. Seems to have solved the problem, but still has no bottom end and won't climb the hills around here. Maybe after Break in it will be better. I am running rich on the bottom end and I've leaned it out, on the fly, to where the engine is running in 2 stroke. Final thing, these 2 stroke engines need to be warmed up COMPLETELY before expecting them to run right. a full 3 minute warmup is a good starting point, at idle and at a stand still. The head, cylinder and the crankcase need to be brought up to operating temperature.

You've got the jet sizing backward, and all engines perform their best (most power) just before reaching actual running temp and lose some power at temp and really lose power if running a bit hot. diaphragm type carbs are ok but need a pulse line to work properly and in some cases even require a secondary fuel pump to keep up with the demand.

 

[Chainlube]

Yes 4 years old and how do you figure a #80 jet is smaller than a #60?

He was right about one thing, #70 is in the middle.