Zeda85 Jackshaft recommendations

Using the larger/more powerful engines with a jackshaft is not recommended. They make enough power on their own that they don't really need extra gears, and they also tend to break pedal chains on the regular.

Plus, now with Sick Bike Parts being out of business, the only decent jackshaft kit doesn't really exist. The big thing you want is a heavy duty freewheel for the crank set.
 
So I should just go with a smolik head and a decent expansion chamber and call it a day? I really want gears lol

If you want to trust Kurt and Ethan Smolik with your money for goods and services, be my guest...lol...They were banned and their vendor credentials cancelled from this forum for a reason, they were also banned from the Facebook Phantom Group as well for very similar reasons.

The only entities they are on now are their own in Reddit, and Fakebook as well as their own youtube entity, everyone else has banned them...Good luck with that one...lol.


 
If you want to trust Kurt and Ethan Smolik with your money for goods and services, be my guest...lol...They were banned and their vendor credentials cancelled from this forum for a reason, they were also banned from the Facebook Phantom Group as well for very similar reasons.

The only entities they are on now are their own in Reddit, and Fakebook as well as their own youtube entity, everyone else has banned them...Good luck with that one...lol.


Thank you! Crisis averted!
 
There are three key scenarios in which having gears on your bike becomes essential. First, if you are a larger individual weighing over 200 pounds, the added mechanical advantage that gears provide can significantly enhance your riding experience. Second, when you encounter steep hills with gradients of 20% or more, gears become crucial for maintaining your momentum and reducing strain on your body and engine. Lastly, if your bike's engine lacks sufficient power, specifically if it delivers less than 3 horsepower, gears can help compensate for that lack of strength.

If you do not meet all three of these criteria, you might not need gears at all. In such cases, it is advisable to prioritize your bike's capabilities starting with a reliable braking system. Stopping is far more important than going fast. Once that is established, consider making engine modifications aimed at achieving maximum performance.

It's important to note that a bike equipped with a shifter does not increase your top speed. Instead, its primary advantage lies in potentially enhancing your average speed, especially if you live in an area with challenging terrain featuring steep hills. However, the availability of quality parts for shifter bikes is dwindling, and the concerns highlighted in my previous discussion, "Will Shifter Bikes Go Extinct," seem to be materializing. For those still inclined to embark on a journey to build a shifter bike, I can offer recommendations for specific parts that might aid you in your quest. What you'll quickly discover is the build is going to be expensive 💰💸💳
 
What were you looking to get out of a shifter setup? It's expensive to do right and unless you're making the most of a 2hp or less engine, it is liable to break parts, catastrophically.

Based on official torque ratings, and assuming, optimistically, stock P85 performance: only specific hubs (kindernay, rohloff ebike, nuvinci 171) could handle the torque but you need a way to start the engine. And that also assumes that the torque rating is after the 2:1 gain ratio used. A lot of mid drives will say 80nm or 100nm but that is at the crankset, not the wheel hub. Except in the lowest gearing of mountain and touring bikes, the drive train is a gain ratio not a reduction ratio.

Lowest engagement I can find on the cvts used on harbor freight engines is 1400 rpm. And that's just to get it engaged, the rpm it maintains while it shifts is higher. Hypothetically with a weaker spring and or lead weights it could be reduced further but you still need a way to start it unless you figure a way to preload the spring.

Given how much space such a set up would take, a youth dirtbike engine like an xr80, ktm 50/65 clone or a lifan 125cc is a much better use of time and money. Nice thing about the ktm 50 clones is those have a 3.5:1 gear reduction and 1/2" pitch so setting up your gearing is easy.

There is only so much you get out of a motorized bike; consider getting an M endorsement/motorcycle license. A used 90s Japanese or a used China dual sport can be had dirt cheap. I would budget 500-1000 USD for gear, 2500 USD for the motorcycle. Don't forget registration and sales tax. That will add 200-300 hundred at least.
 
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