ZedaMotorsports Magnets!!!!

[Chainlube]

Look on this site for info on stepping the woodruff key, this is all that's needed in timing change 4 or 5 degrees makes a big difference in the base timing and regardless of where the base timing is it doesn't change the curve or lack of it.

I know on 4 strokes you want some advance timing, what about 2 strokes?

 

[Street Ryderz]

I know on 4 strokes you want some advance timing, what about 2 strokes?

on a 2 stroke engine there is a base timing and a climb as rpm increase then a curve to retard it at high rpm. With the bicycle engines ignition and cdi there is the base and climb no curve this is not suited to true high rpm use as you want the ignition to fire and the flame front to fully propagate into the charge as it's fully compressed just prior to tdc and when this is needed faster and faster as rpm climb it has to occur closer to tdc to be in time. So retarding the timing closer to tdc in the case of the bicycle engine lowers the base timing and therefore the peak of the climb which can go as high as 30+ degrees at 9k+ . Good 2 stroke ignition system's have the curve that retard at some point of the climb and will generally drop to 8 degrees btdc and that's a huge difference between them that just ends up costing power and creating heat soak big time and that's never good! There is info within the group pages about stepping/notching the woodruff key that's quite easy to do and drops or advance's timing about 4-5 of the base, advancing it can also be done if you're doing short wot burst's to accelerate but maintain lower rpm's, and the tune is right. But it may also burn a hole in your piston top if you hold wot for awhile so your choice.

 

[Chainlube]

on a 2 stroke engine there is a base timing and a climb as rpm increase then a curve to retard it at high rpm. With the bicycle engines ignition and cdi there is the base and climb no curve this is not suited to true high rpm use as you want the ignition to fire and the flame front to fully propagate into the charge as it's fully compressed just prior to tdc and when this is needed faster and faster as rpm climb it has to occur closer to tdc to be in time. So retarding the timing closer to tdc in the case of the bicycle engine lowers the base timing and therefore the peak of the climb which can go as high as 30+ degrees at 9k+ . Good 2 stroke ignition system's have the curve that retard at some point of the climb and will generally drop to 8 degrees btdc and that's a huge difference between them that just ends up costing power and creating heat soak big time and that's never good! There is info within the group pages about stepping/notching the woodruff key that's quite easy to do and drops or advance's timing about 4-5 of the base, advancing it can also be done if you're doing short wot burst's to accelerate but maintain lower rpm's, and the tune is right. But it may also burn a hole in your piston top if you hold wot for awhile so your choice.

Ha ha, I'll save all the Hi-po tuning for my 4 stroke where I run 8 degrees advance on top of the factory set 24. 32 is perfect for running 6500 rpm on a 196.

 

[HumanPerson]

If someone were to dig deep they wold find that there is a place with diagrams to do this with plumbing items.

I think it was a preassure fit ferrel with a slot cut out and the magnet was drilled out? not sure but Research will tell.

Ride Safe!

HP

 

[Street Ryderz]

If someone were to dig deep they wold find that there is a place with diagrams to do this with plumbing items.

I think it was a preassure fit ferrel with a slot cut out and the magnet was drilled out? not sure but Research will tell.

Ride Safe!

HP

The easiest was like the manic mechanic one's they used a conical cut washer and matching tapered cut in the mag/rotor. This was pretty good I never had one fail but haven't been able to get them in some time now so I just do it my self by stepping the key and I have two cranks that the slot was relocated I've used for quite some time now as well, though that takes alot more work and a lathe and mill to do properly so if you don't have those it could be expensive to have done idk.

 

[HumanPerson]

If i recall correctly it was mm that told me to use some type of plumbing ferrel? and what you said @Street Ryderz

Ride Safe!

HP

 

[Deleted member 27811]

Well, I'm excited about this one.

I always figured I'd be filing on key ways and checking and filing and checking and filing to get timing where I wanted it but ,having browsed through Zedamotorsports ever growing list of items, i stumbled upon a new and exciting product listing.

Moderators Note:
Please be aware that Zeda Motor Sports and Robert Bianchi have nothing to do with Zeda itself which is a manufacturer of Zeda Motors in China.
A reputable vendor of the Zeda line of motors can be found at bicycle-engines.com

I'm personally excited over this because it will make things simple trying to find that sweet spot with timing where you want it.

This item will certainly make it to my pure stock engine build and any build of mine for that matter...Almost seems like a must have for anyone into getting the most from your 2 stroke build.

This should be killer add on to an HD lightning or Jaguar performance ignition...the perfect timing perhaps?
View attachment 80041

https://zedamotorsports.com/shop?olsPage=products/adjustable-timing-magnet&page=11

With the Jag 6 , you let the electronics do the adv. curve. It can do any engine setup.

 

[Street Ryderz]

With the Jag 6 , you let the electronics do the adv. curve. It can do any engine setup.

Jag's cdi is ok but still not suited to true high rpm use. As with alot of his stuff it's not accurately plotted and there is a few graph's that show the timing in relation to rpm and they are all wrong when checked. The graph's show base way below where it actually is then it climbs too high in the wrong range then the curve drops out at 9k which is also no good unless you don't want to go over 9k but then that's not high rpm.