212cc Engine Reversal With Shift Kit

5-7HEAVEN

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I have a LOT of time on my hands.

Even though I still work fulltime, the pandemic has me stuck at home most of the time.

I love to shift gears.
I'd rather drive a stock 1967 VW Bug than a souped-up Corvette with automatic trans.

But HEY!
That's just me.:)

I also love shifting gears on a motorized bicycle.

I'm almost done my project of sending 212cc engine power through the bottom bracket(BB).


Now here's ANOTHER idea of sending power to the shift kit!

Mount the 212cc engine, with its clutch on the right side!

Get a Staton's 18.75:1 rear gearbox.

Custom mount it to the frame, below the engine.

If you want, the vendor will extend the middle shaft thru the gearbox.

That's geared at 3.75:1 AND spins CLOCKWISE!

Chain the engine's 10t clutch to the gearbox's 10t output sprocket.

Chain the 10t sprocket on the middle shaft to the 24t chainring.

Leave the engine input connection on the gearbox alone.

That gives you 5.25:1 in high gear at the rear wheel cassette.

PERFECT for high gear in a 7-speed bike.

Not TOO expensive, for a prototype.

No exotic($$$) custom work needed.

In fact, the ONLY fabrication is mounting the gearbox!:)
(and Staton MIGHT have the midframe mounts!)

No custom external bottom brackets, with
tiny 25mm-30mm bottom bracket bearings to deal with.

No hollow, concentric BB spindles.

No exotic humungous sprockets and custom hubs.

No TIME-CONSUMING!! sourcing all these parts on the 'net,
wondering if it'll fit AND work dependably.

No machining parts.....

Now I feel like crying.:(

Funny, but not so funny:(
 
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I've done the exact same thing in the past, where I'm just about done and I have another thought and totally change my mind and finish different because the new way was going to be easier to build and repair.
 
Here's the Staton gearbox:



There are a few more advantages to turning the engine around.

The best reason is that now the EXHAUST IS IN THE FRONT OF THE BIKE!!

NOT BY YOUR LEG!!:)

Now you can route your exhaust far away from your body,
like these:







The carb is now in the front, so the throttle linkage is not close to you
 
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I've done the exact same thing in the past, where I'm just about done and I have another thought and totally change my mind and finish different because the new way was going to be easier to build and repair.

Thanks for your sympathy, Chainlube.

Well, I'll have to live with it.....

or not, lol:)
 
And THESE are the Staton midframe motor mounts for his gearbox!!


If they fit well enough, hundreds of dollars might be saved by not needing a welder/fabricator.

Wow!

The biggest cost to this project would've been the welding/fabrication!:)
 
Rough estimate of parts:

Staton gearbox.....$166.00, includes middle drive shaft.

10t sprocket #40..... $14.44

10t sprocket 1/2 x 3/32.....$13.23

Frame mounts.....$50.58

Total cost.....$254.63, plus shipping

and miscellaneous clutch and chains.

More than likely.....

no jackshaft needed!:)

Welllll, that's how it looks on paper.

I guess taking measurements determine if everything fits,
with or without a jackshaft.
 
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Well, I remounted the engine.....backwards.

There is much more room.

The cylinder head angles upward, towards the head tube.

The starter easily clears the seat tube.

Access to the exhaust port is WIDE OPEN!

Carb points forward about 35 degrees.

Everything looks perfect.....

EXCEPT! the chainline to where the Staton gearbox connects to both the clutch and the chainring.

I don't think the Staton gearbox frame mounts will work.

The engine centers in the midframe.

Therefore, the gearbox mounts cannot also centralize on the downtube.

The chainline is totally off!:(

It looks like a custom gearbox mount needs to be fabbed.

It needs to be ahead of the clutch and 4" out from the downtube.

I'll shoot pics tomorrow.
 
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I like this project ...hope it’s a quite gearbox.It’s always nice when you can uliminate a chain or 3! Looking forward to pix.
 
I've used this box before, on rear chain drive/Mitsubishi engines.

They weren't loud to me,
but they ARE straight-cut gears.
 
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