Belt tension and starting

Discussion in 'Whizzer Motorized Bicycles' started by chainmaker, Jun 4, 2012.

  1. chainmaker

    chainmaker Member

    I am looking for some help here. An ax61 is too short(the wheel BARELY makes it to the drop-outs) and the ax 62 leaves a bit too much slack on the belt, it doesnt grip enough. Anyone have a trick for getting some tension, or some sort of tensioner? I cant move my motor at all it barely fits as it is. Also I cant seem to find instructions on the proper way to start her up. I have a 47 H with twist compression release. Thanks in advance.
     

  2. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Hi Chainmaker,

    Use the AX62 and move the motor forward in the frame.

    Best way is to install front belt and move motor around in the frame until front belt is tight. Next install rear belt and move wheel to the rear until tight as possible. When mving rear wheel make sur it doesn't cause the clutch pulley to move downward much. If the rea belt isn't tight enough, just loosen the top rear motor mount and push motor forward then tighten the nut to hold motor in place.

    If you need more help, just contact me and I can send pictures if necessary.

    Just remember to NOT try to make both belts tight in the beginning, but rather do the front belt first then the rear belt.

    Open the compression release, pedal untill motor starts turning over then close the compression release.

    Have fun,
     
  3. chainmaker

    chainmaker Member

    Thanks Quentin,

    Belts are nice and snug. Now I cant get her to fire up. I pedal or roll down a long hill, turn the compression closed, get chugga chugga chugga chugga all the way home but it wont fire. Got air , fuel bowl is full..gave it a shot of starting fluid, touched the plug wire while pedaling to check if I was getting spark...got a nice jolt. Ideas anyone?
     
  4. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Hi Chainmaker,


    The vintage motors easily flood and foul the plug. Best to use choke to start, but get choke off ASAP.

    Remove the plug, place on the head to make the base touch the head, not the wire. Put bike on stand, pedal and look to see if the spark is "hot", not just a faint arc. The correct spark plug is an Autolite #303.

    Call me when you have time and I will help you get it started and running correctly.

    Have fun,
     
  5. chainmaker

    chainmaker Member

    I tried with choke open, 1/2 , and closed. My stand bent from the weight of the bike so I cant pedal in place. Im going to go out to get a new plug and try that. Quentin could you PM me your number.
     
  6. chainmaker

    chainmaker Member

    New plug in , another mile of pedaling......nothing
     
  7. chainmaker

    chainmaker Member

    Pulled the plug to check for spark while pushing it, got 1 weak spark. few drops of gas in the plug hole and tried pedal starting. Nothing. Im thinking some water might have found its way down the plug wire and into the coil. (We have had like a week or more of rain here. If this the problem, will it dry out while baking in the sun for a few days?
     
  8. WZ507

    WZ507 Member

    Whizzer Ignition

    If moisture in the ignition is the problem, giving it a good soaking with WD-40 will usually remedy the issue on the spot. Is your ignition based on points and condenser, or are you using a module? If you're using points and condenser I'd toss them and replace with a module.
     
  9. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    I think he is using the module. The motor was running great when it was removed from the original bike.

    When I talked to Troy yesterday, he said the plug looks dry, and makes me wonder if it a fuel problem or ignition.

    He can check coil with an OHM meter to make sure it is close.
    Have fun,
     
  10. chainmaker

    chainmaker Member

    Yeah Ive got the electronic ignition. It was good to put a voice to the words yesterday Quenton, thanks for your help. I was on my way home from work today, and I remembered I picked up one of those inline ignition spark checker at harbor freight a couple months ago. I do have spark. So now to the carb, I have the tillotson carb. Any advice or help would be great as to what I should be checking first, or do I need to order a re-build kit ?
     
  11. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    If you have carburetor issues you can send it to me and I will clean and adjust it for you. I won't charge you for the work, but you will have to pay shipping both ways.

    If you want to try to service it yourself, I will gladly help you with step by step instructions. I think the carburetor already has been rebuilt, and is most likely just a victim of todays gasoline.

    I would try filling the fuel line with Gummout carburetor cleaner, let sit for several hours, then remove the small drain screw at the bottom of the float chamber. If you repeat this process several times it may flush out the float chamber & clean the float needle valve. You can also carefully remove the 3 screws that secure the top of the float chamber, lift slowly and make sure you don't tear the gasket and look inside. You can also adjust the main jet [at the bottom of the carburetor] all the way in then back out as this may remove any obstruction. Be careful and note the setting be sure to return it to the original setting if possible. The original factory settings are "turn screw clockwise until it seats [lightly] and back out 3/4 turn". This is also true with the air/fuel idle adjustment screw on the side of the carburetor.

    Have fun,

    Either way, not to worry as I will help you put your Whizzer on the "road again".

    Have fun,
     
  12. chainmaker

    chainmaker Member

    I did all the above, got her fired up for a couple minutes...zero throttle action. throttle stuck wide open, when I twist throttle...nothing, the lever atop the carb moves but no change in idle full open. I repaeated the processe above now I am back to sq. one. Wont fire up again, and the gasket needs replacing.
     
  13. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Hi Troy,

    Thrilled you at least got it to fire up.

    Are you using the later "twist" controls?

    The best way to start motor is open throttle approx 1/8th open with choke on.

    If you are having issues with the controls, maybe you could post a picture of how they are setup on your bike.

    Have fun,
     
  14. chainmaker

    chainmaker Member

    So I got her fired up again today throttle still no action. The top of the carb where the lever is is extremely close to the top bar of the bike it may be hitting, so I am going to take the bottom mounts off and shave them so I can drop the motor the last 1/4 inch possible to free up the lever. I am also ordering new cables for the throttle and compression maybe the cables for the levers are a different length than the twist grips.
     
  15. chainmaker

    chainmaker Member

    I had a little time before work, took off the lower mount to trim it, also took the carb off to go through it the best I can to eliminate as much as possible. As for the idle tube screw, what would the factory suggestions be for a starting point? I have a couple hours free tomorrow to get some of this done.
     
  16. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Hi Troy,

    The main jet [bottom adjustment], and the idle mixture screw are both set at 3/4 turn as a good starting point. Screw both in GENTLY!, don't over tighten, then turn out 3/4 turn.

    If you need, call me and I will "walk" you through the process.

    Have fun,
     
  17. chainmaker

    chainmaker Member

    Thanks Quenton,

    What about the idle tube screw between the choke and throttle, on the top of the carb what would the factory setting be on that?
     
  18. chainmaker

    chainmaker Member

    Thank You for the help Quenton, got her going today. My new throttle cables came just in time. Got in about 2 hours of riding today. So much more bottom end power than the HF I had. Its a bit hard to get used to the "non spring action" on the throttle. Still got a few bugs to work out, but shes running!
     
  19. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    The screw between the throttle & choke lever is for low speed idle circuit and should be tightened all the way [it isn't an adjustment]into the carburetor housing.

    Thrilled to see you got it running, the vintage motors sure have a lot of bottom end torque, and will pull most hills easily.

    Have fun,
     
  20. chainmaker

    chainmaker Member

    Thanks Again Quentin,

    she is running great!!! I swapped out the "J" throttle grip for a mini-bike throttle, added a walbro swivel to the throttle lever and a spring return and now the throttle action is sweet .
     
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