D
Deleted member 12676
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I didn't have to pedal mine except when starting. and it wasn't geared down
Jackshaft Better than Jackshafting?
- Thread starter Nanonevol
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- jack shaft
KCvale
In memory of KCvale 1959 - 2019
No, HD 410 single speed Z-chain for both chains.
11G spokes?
Jezz no, 12g are hard enough but 13g is nice and more than strong enough for a bicycle wheel.
Not necessary. 410 chain is plenty strong, and in fact a new Speed chain will last a long time.
KCvale
In memory of KCvale 1959 - 2019
Well, nothing you do with chain is going to 'make the transmission stronger', nor is trying to use 11g spokes.
What bike are you building on if I might ask?
Was it made to military specs for a Sherman tank or something?
With 2 chains on the BB going at different directions they have to cross each other.
It's darn close with 410, even spacing the sprockets apart can only go so far, and 415 would hit or not let your sprockets align right with their respective other ends.
I guess what I am trying to say is you don't need a navy ship anchor chain for an MB, a good piece of rope for your dingy is fine.
Just get everything aligned right and 410 is golden.
syphonza
Member
We use a 60 tooth for our low range model and unless you are a border line pro athlete there is no ways your are pedalling as fast as it will move you! Top speed of 45Km/h and a cruise not far off 40Km/h . This with me riding, weighing in at about 100kg. (I was actually a bit heavier during testing but my did not want to tell the wife)
I am thinking about 11 gage spoke, for a new build, because I want a strong rear wheel. the wheel I have now constantly needs to be trued all the time. I ride for 30 minutes and it needs to be trued. I am looking for something really durable that does not need to be trued so often. I have heard of people drilling out the sta-tru wheels and the hubs that go with them, in order to make them stronger. I might do this, but I am also thinking about buying a rear wheel that is premade. With that said, I dont have a truing stand, but I am not afraid to use one either. I am just looking for a strong option using a 26 or 24 inch wheel. I still dont know the reason why people use 24 inch wheels in the rear sometimes. To me it looks like the wheel would take more power to turn and roll slower than a 26 inch wheel, but then maybe i am missing something here.
I have seen this wheel on amazon , and I am thinking about it, or something with a double walled rim, or even maybe something like what was pictured in one of your earlier builds.
Referencing, the chains, I have heard that 410 chains are week and have a tendency to break with high torque situations. The Jakeshaft looks like an interesting concept. I just want to get as much info as possible before making a decision on which way to go. The Sturmy Archer looks like a more reliable system, than a cogged wheel.
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Timbone
Well-Known Member
Putting a motor on a bicycle puts a lot of torque into the rear wheel and, ideally, you wouldn't want it to be a bicycle wheel. A moped wheel or adapted small motorcycle wheel would be best. A solid wheel made for a motorized bicycle would be nice, too.
Most bicycle riders cruise around on poorly built spoked wheels. A tightly laced 3x wheel using 14 gauge spokes can be very strong. Pulled to proper tension, it's going to be very difficult to break a 14 gauge spoke. Usualy, they break as a result of getting loose and succumb to thousands of microbends that occur thru several miles of loosening/tightening cycles. An 11 gauge spoke will not add any appreciable strength increase, but I will allow that perhaps the thicker spoke body would be more resistant to the microbending phenomenon that kills tensioned bicycle spokes.
It's always a good idea to pretreat the spoken nipples with some kind of oil (like tung oil) to prevent loosening and loss of true.
As far as a 24" rear wheel goes, that would actually add leverage to the drivetrain and make things easier for the engine to turn it. That would serve as a kind of lower gear and make it easier to get torque to the back tire. If you wanted to throw some gravel, the smaller the back wheel the greater the effect. Of course, it would have a lower top speed at max revs. gain, it's a lower gear.
If these guys on here tell you a 410 chain will work on your jackshaft, I wouldn't argue with them!
Most bicycle riders cruise around on poorly built spoked wheels. A tightly laced 3x wheel using 14 gauge spokes can be very strong. Pulled to proper tension, it's going to be very difficult to break a 14 gauge spoke. Usualy, they break as a result of getting loose and succumb to thousands of microbends that occur thru several miles of loosening/tightening cycles. An 11 gauge spoke will not add any appreciable strength increase, but I will allow that perhaps the thicker spoke body would be more resistant to the microbending phenomenon that kills tensioned bicycle spokes.
It's always a good idea to pretreat the spoken nipples with some kind of oil (like tung oil) to prevent loosening and loss of true.
As far as a 24" rear wheel goes, that would actually add leverage to the drivetrain and make things easier for the engine to turn it. That would serve as a kind of lower gear and make it easier to get torque to the back tire. If you wanted to throw some gravel, the smaller the back wheel the greater the effect. Of course, it would have a lower top speed at max revs. gain, it's a lower gear.
If these guys on here tell you a 410 chain will work on your jackshaft, I wouldn't argue with them!
KCvale
In memory of KCvale 1959 - 2019
Don't confuse wheel size with rim size.
Wheel size includes the tire.
For example the the 24x3" Kenda tires stand 26" tall but use a 24" rim because the tires are so tall.
Wheel size includes the tire.
For example the the 24x3" Kenda tires stand 26" tall but use a 24" rim because the tires are so tall.
Nanonevol
Member
Okay, better idea. Stay with me now. Taking back my thread.
Mount a sprocket on the left side of the wheel but mount it to the axle, not the spinning wheel as is commonly done, but the axle - like the sprocket on the other side. Now, you need a freewheeling pedal but that's no problem as those are available. Would this not work? Wouldn't it work with internal gearing (but not derailler gearing). Am I not genius?
Mount a sprocket on the left side of the wheel but mount it to the axle, not the spinning wheel as is commonly done, but the axle - like the sprocket on the other side. Now, you need a freewheeling pedal but that's no problem as those are available. Would this not work? Wouldn't it work with internal gearing (but not derailler gearing). Am I not genius?
