Cheapest eBikes - Complete

Most importantly you seem to miss the sole purpose of this thread. ....

Most likely a **** poor attempt of using this forum to promote your affiliate id.
Thats uncalled for, u have no reason to even suspect it, let alone know it that i can tell.

Why would a shill introduce historical low prices e.g?


It mostly reflects badly on you.
 
Last edited:
specs fyi of the mtb model

http://www.w.currietech.com/bicycle-online/best-bicycle-ezip-trailz-diamond-frame/

for some folk, substandard and cheap entry price is fine for the job they want done.

a $400 ebike beats the hell out of no ebike, and really, its not bad for on the flat 15-20km of errands at 25kph. pedal assist & even walk on hills

If you recognise what an important role and cost saver it can be in your life, then its a false economy that will annoy you for ever more - for a bit more, it could be so better, and saving me far more than i saved at purchase, because i love using it instead of the car.

its 30kg and its steel - pretty heavy. an alloy mtb would save 3kg~?

no gears for motor, the single best thing u can do to make a little power and weight go a long way. mid-drives really are a fully functional motor only transport machine, totally worth the premium

you will probably hate the supplied battery in no time. I would separately source a durable, no problems lifepo4 pouch pack.

diamond frame is best engineeringwise, and so, weightwise, but a bugger for bulky batteries, which belong low and central for ideal balance (heavier ladies bikes are ideal for this).
Do at least consider a diamond frame if u dont feel fit enuff to get u leg over the bar. u get better with time, and u can fudge it a bit, by mounting next to a low wall or kerb - a leg up, it works, i wasnt fit enuff at first.

Any hoo noobs, perhaps i am saying, ok fine, go cheapest, but:

cheapest alloy frame (not much dearer), disk brake (well why not if it stops better & with untrue rims?), mid-drive mtb.

Pass on their batteries if u can, as above

get a spare battery charger while at it.

get spare set of sprockets for de-raileurs, and have replaced along with the chain after you have abused it learning to shift smoothly.

opt for more amps in the controller if u can

i dont know the cost, but thats what a proper sub 500w ebike ought be imho. If you have a serious application, less is a false economy.

others swear by the brute approach. A big hub motor, heavy bike, big output battery. It works, often inefficiently, ok in almost, but not all (unlike a mid drive with 7 or more gears (mine unusually has 24 gears, but i think 14 or more is doable on 2 front ring bafang mid drives etc.)) terrain, and can be quite cheap with short range battery. A decent range battery is very expensive.

not for me personally. i like it to still be a bicycle, not hog you cant lift. If i rode 30 miles each way on a country road each day, that would probably suit me better.

Here in expensive Oz, it seems $100 is just the flagfall for goingto the bike shop, and I find them PITAs to boot.

So any fiddly problems that arise from buying to a price, will destroy any savings and then some, fast, even if u r a D(estroy)IYer.
 
Back
Top