Crosbow Cycles

Discussion in 'Spare Parts, Tools & Product Developement' started by dbigkahunna, Jul 11, 2007.

  1. dbigkahunna

    dbigkahunna Guest

    Has anyone heard of these guys. They make a really sharp repo-racer. Kinda pricie but chingles cool. Also they make a neat retro springer.
     

  2. ironwarlock

    ironwarlock Guest

    ya that is a big chunk of change they want for those bikes. :grin: but they look sweet.
     
  3. DougC

    DougC Guest

    Monarch forks

    I ordered a pair of the forks from Crossbow Cycles.
    Various notes:
    ...the bottom dropouts appeared at first to be way too narrow, but there's four washers on each pivot bolt and you just have to re-arrange the pieces.
    ...the dropouts are 1/8" thick, while the ends of the fork and springer blades are mashed flat and about 3/16" thick.
    ...it doesn't come with anti-spin washers or a lower bearing race. I tried the lower bearing race off the Worksman forks and that race was a bit too big (diameter) and didn't fit around the Monarch steerer tube properly. You'll need two anti-spin washers instead of just one, to go above and below the spring mount because it bends down a bit too soon and won't sit level on the upper race otherwise.
    ...the dropouts are cut for 5/16" axles, and the Worksman bike uses 3/8". I don't have any other non-quick-release bikes around so I don't know what most normal bikes use. There's plenty of room to cut the slots bigger, but it's one more thing to do.
    ...Crossbow makes a dropout with a disk-brake adapter, but there's no other easy way to attach a front brake. I wanted a drum on mine so I'll have to figure something out with this.

    Also I took a picture, what I got looks a bit different cosmetically than the photo on the web site, but mechanically it is the same. I have lifted up the chromed crown cover, so that the actual fork crown is visible.
    ~
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 14, 2007
  4. DougC

    DougC Guest

    Additional info, after one afternoon with the fork:

    I'm going to get longer bolts for the lower-end.... I haven't tried riding with it but as it is, it seems to me like the nuts would loosen with the suspension traveling. The nuts are nylon-locking and I didn't have any chance to try the forks out, but I would much prefer to tighten another bolt down against the locking nut--but the original bolts aren't long enough for that, and because of other issues you can't simply put in longer bolts (they're an odd shouldered metric size).

    -----

    I don't know why it came with the dropouts set narrow, or if they intended it to be used that way. The distance between the dropouts was only about 3.5 inches. There is an older standard width, used only on lower-priced hubs that was 91mm, that is pretty close to that. All modern bikes now use 100mm for the front hubs, even the cheap bikes (the MTB/20mm thru-axle wheels might be a different width, but we don't care about them...).

    The GOOD news is that it looks like the front drum brake won't be too difficult to anchor properly, with some grinding. It will be tilted a bit odd, but will work and won't require modifying the forks at all.
    ~
     
  5. npk1977

    npk1977 Guest

    Do those kind of forks make a difference in the ride quality? Is it much smoother with the springs?
     
  6. DougC

    DougC Guest

    Generally,,,,, sort-of.

    Over small bumps they make a nice difference, but the extra pivoting linkages tends to give a vague steering feeling. This one might have a total of 1.5 inches of travel, assuming the springs don't sag just from bike/rider weight. I bought them for looks mostly.

    If you want good suspended steering, there's no question--get some decent MTB telescoping forks. They're built stronger and will likely have more travel and feel much tighter.
    ~
     
  7. DougC

    DougC Guest

    :???:

    Sorry to report--these forks do not just drop in to any regular 26" bicycle.

    First is the wheel spacing issue, mentioned earlier. I got the different bolts at the local hardware store and ordered some 1/4" wide, 5/16 ID x 7/16 OD bushings online, that the local hardware stores didn't have. I found bronze first, but steel would work too.

    Second is that you need some shim material (about .018" thick, if I have measured correctly) to install the lower bearing cone. A normal 1" cruiser-bicycle steerer tube is around 1" diameter except for a short distance at the bottom that has a shoulder that is 1.006" or so diameter. The Crossbow/Monark forks don't have this shoulder, they measure about 1.03" all the way down, and the lower bearing cone wobbles on the steerer tube. You need some shim stock to fix that, but most of us don't have an assortment of shim stock just lying about. So I've got to order that too now--the only places that sell it locally don't sell small pieces ($10, mcmaster-carr), just fairly-big (~$50) rolls.
    ~
     
  8. kevbo

    kevbo Guest

    It's $35 bucks or so, but this Shim stock assortment has saved the day enough to earn it's keep.

    By the way, the last 1" headset bearing I messed with was a light press fit onto the 1.040 shoulder on the steerer tube. (1" +1mm I guess!)

    Unfortunatly, the new fork had a 1.063 (27mm) shoulder. .020 + is not a tight press fit, it is an explode the bearing cone fit.

    Fortunatly, I have a lathe.

    Unfortunatly it was not obvious how to remove the steerer from the fork so I could turn it down on the lathe.

    Fortunately the steerer had some extra length.

    So I made a long bushing that is a light press over the 1.060, then necked down to 1" ID, with a 1.040 OD shoulder at the top...made it long enough that I didn't need to cut down the steerer. So far nobody has asked about that odd spacer above the fork!

    So how in the heck do you make a part with an .020 wall?

    -First, make a male plug that will be a nice fit in the ID. Do this first so you can use the lathe for the plug, and don't have to unchuck and recenter the the part later. Center drill one end.

    -Bore the ID of the bushing, insert the plug.

    -Install the plug, and turn the OD, using the tailstock to support the part via the plug.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 21, 2007
  9. DougC

    DougC Guest

    It's my understanding that on steel and aluminum forks, you're supposed to need to tap the lower cone on with a piece of tubing and a hammer. There's a special tool for the tubing sold for this.

    I don't have a lathe; most people don't have a lathe. The place that made the forks probably has a lathe, but that don't help me none.

    And I don't know that the measurements are exact (using some cheap plastic calipers and having only the Worksman bike on hand to compare measurements to--and noting that the Worksman uses a lot of over-thickness parts) but these style of headsets don't seem to come in different steerer tube sizes.
    ~
     
  10. Gosh..!
    I thought I was the only person that had problems with these forks...
    One extra annoying aspect of the set I have, is that the blades are incorrectly aligned which means lots of bending about and swearing...
    The general finish of the forks is pretty poor but, as I intend to respray them, I really shouldn't complain...
    This thread has been very useful to me, thanks chaps...!
     
  11. turkeyssr

    turkeyssr Guest

    You don't need a 'special' tool to put on the crown race. All you need is a piece of 1" PVC long enough to fit over the steer tube, and you can simply hammer it on. It doesn't take much (don't hit it hard). I grease the race and the lower part of the steer tube to facilitate the process. There are 2 dimensions for fork crown races 27.0mm and 26.4mm for 1" forks.

    --John
     
  12. wow that is the most expensive motorized bicycle i have ever seen !
    the bike looks like whizzer. i would rather get whizzer with less money.
     
  13. Gimmick

    Gimmick Guest

    so, I just got mine in the mail, and had to dremel out the dropouts and flip them to accomidate my arai drum brake hub....well see how the whole headset debacle goes with it, no matter though...it looks hella cool...one question though, any ideas on fender mounting with these, nowhere to go with the mounting bracket....
     
  14. DougC

    DougC Guest

    I did not have problems with mis-aligned blades on mine. The blades are asymmetrical and the left/right are flipped, so they don't look quite identical from both sides (you can tell if you look at the lower end bolt holes) but they still work the same.

    I've got a fender on mine.
    There was a plate across the bottom of the steerer tube, that had a jagged 3/16" hole in it. I drilled that out to 1/4". Then you can drill a hole in the fender and run a bolt up through the fender and to a nut inside the steerer tube. It's a pain to tighten, I used a nylock nut so it won't come loose (I used nylock nuts for everything I could).

    The two fender struts just need to attach onto the fork blades, in the bolt stack--but they need to be attached so that they won't be forced to rotate when the suspension compresses, and this is another reason you can't use the original bolts.

    I'll have to do a good diagram + pix of mine. I have ~200 miles on it and they are holding together, so it can work.... -but I don't think it can work with the original bolts.
    ~
     
  15. Gimmick

    Gimmick Guest

    worth the hassle

    so yeah, the crown race fit pretty loose, used coke can shims...worked just fine...had to replace the whole headset as my schwinn Haevy Duti came with a 1 1/8 threaded headset and stem...you never see those....found some wald fenders that dont mount with a center bolt, but havent gone to pick them up...this little upgreade project has gotten spendy...forks, headset, stem, fenders...I swear this motorized bike is worth about a grand now...obsession, fascination, determinate tinkering.
     
  16. DougC

    DougC Guest

    :shock:
    Ehhh,,,,, coke cans are made out of aluminum.... -And the bearing race and steerer tube are steel. The aluminum is going to suffer galvanic corrosion and e-x-p-a-n-d.

    You need to get a piece of STEEL shim in there, friend..... Like pieces of a Campell's soup can perhaps.

    Or stainless steel will work too, but stainless is a pain the the butt to cut. I would use a dremel+cutoff wheel on high to cut stainless shim, because tin snips probably won't cut it real well. Or, tin snips may cut it at first, but won't for very long....
    ~
     
  17. Gimmick

    Gimmick Guest

    I am pretty sure that thew aluminum is the anodic metal in this scenario, so im not to concerned about the treerer tube or race corroding and this aplication doesnt yield much or any exposure to salt water or other electrolyltes ( chris king sealed headset) and lots of grease- so i didnt worry too much about it, hopefully that wont come back to haunt me the way not using lock tite on my spoke nipples did.
     
  18. charge5

    charge5 New Member

    Bought some "monark forks" didn't like them one bit. the idea and concept is great but the actual application is flawed. nothing fits(as it should) and too many points that can fall apart at 30mph. they were too expensive for the quality delivered and rust specs formed from one day in the garage. no good.
     
  19. Gimmick

    Gimmick Guest

    ugh, these things are a NIGHTMARE...any recommendations for fixing the dropout spacing issue without the bolts interfering with spokes...Doug, you talked about the bushings...do i just use a regular bolt and then place the bushings in the dropout holes......
     
  20. lennyharp

    lennyharp Member

    I have used aluminum for years for this little shim. It does the trick well.
     
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