FS: NGK B7HV Gold-Palladium Non-Fouling Spark Plug

Discussion in 'For Sale' started by h3ch4, Feb 20, 2008.

  1. h3ch4

    h3ch4 New Member

    Hey, anything is better than those stock china plugs, right?

    I have here a bunch of NGK B7HV Gold-Palladium Non-Fouling spark plugs. Apparently, these are no longer in production. I called the local Kragen, and their computers listed them at $9 each, but not available even for order. So, I went online and scored a box of five off eBay. I figure one plug should last until the engine gives out and I can buy a four-stroke, so I have four B7HV plugs to get rid of.

    How does $7 each, shipped to the continental U.S. sound? PM me if you're interested!
     

  2. pm me my b6hs is a tad hot
     
  3. sparky

    sparky Active Member

    Seriously? Non-fouling?!? Not ever??

    I seem to be fouling a plug every week, no matter what my fuel/air mixture is set to. Always looks "slightly" lean... can't manage to get it to that beautiful tan color. Been using CJ7Y... tried CJ6Y (cooler plug) to see if it would help, but it doesn't. Every plug runs great for a day or two, but by day three for sure... it gradually starts "sputtering" more and more, and at random times (sometimes bottom end, sometimes mid-range, sometimes top end). I don't get it. I've also been using 93 octane, so that's also not the issue.
     
  4. h3ch4

    h3ch4 New Member

    Well, I haven't had to change the platinum plug yet, even though I've played with the oil/fuel and air/fuel mixtures. At times, the plug was solid black and damp, and it still fired without a problem. I've got the mixture dialed in by now, but I'm still using the same plug!

    Try tightening your engine mounts. For a while, my engine kept bogging down randomly. I finally figured out that my engine mount bolts had shaken loose, and the vibration was causing the carburetor not to fill all the way. The problem went away once I tightened all the bolts. The more I read your post, the more I'm sure this is the problem. Let me know if that solves it.
     
  5. JemmaUK

    JemmaUK Guest

    Try 91 octane - alot of the old machines such as the winged wheel and the cyclemaster ran better on the pool petrol than they did on the decent stuff... and their symptoms were exactly the same as you describe...

    www.cyclemaster.wordpress.com

    Jemma xx
     
  6. Pablo

    Pablo Motored Bikes Sponsor

    My opinion? Because you are running Champion plugs. Try an NGK.
     
  7. sparky

    sparky Active Member

    Well, I guess I'll have to try this plug one way or another... sounds amazing! Do you still have one for sale?

    I just now got all new stainless steel bolts & lock washers the other day. Everything's tight, but I did notice the back part of my Chinese Tanaka knock-off has cracked. The front part already cracked and I had to send it back to be welded. It's holding up well, and I can tell it'll last for awhile... but it's pretty upsetting that the back part has cracked too. The handle that's on the back part of my bike (coming out from the engine box/case where the engine is mounted on) actually snapped off while I was trying to pick it up a couple weeks ago. This aluminum is soo crappy and thin it's unbelievable. Oh well, I guess now's the time to learn how to weld!!

    Either way, the engine seems to be very solid & secure... it won't budge. At least 5 of the 6 bolts are doing their job (tho only 1 of 2 on the engine side)... so I don't think that's my problem.

    Thanks Jemma... I'll try that on my next fill up! I'm not sure what else the problem could be.

    Hah... I tried an NGK plug, but it actually ran worse than the Champions. And the Champions are cheaper... go figure.
     
  8. Pablo

    Pablo Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Interesting. I find Champion plugs to generally be junk.

    For sure that engine doesn't need 93 octane. Get 87 in there. The energy level is higher and with such a low compression ratio, no need for AK compounds, plus ethanol just doesn't blend well with oil. Speaking of which, you are mixing and using right away, I assume.
     
  9. sparky

    sparky Active Member

    Pablo... what are AK compounds? And as far as the ethanol thing, I assume the gas station I'm using doesn't use it, but I've never asked... most of the gas stations that use it seem to put a warning of some sort on the pumps. I should ask, tho.

    If you mean am I going to remix with some 87/91 octane right away, the answer is no. I've got another gallon of 93 left, so I'm going to finish that off first and sacrifice the performance for a bit longer. Don't see how the 93 could be harmful just because it's not necessary.
     
  10. Pablo

    Pablo Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Anti Knock additives. In an unsophisticated, low compression 2-stroke engine AK compounds just rob power. Seems like all stations are using ethanol and it's not a good thing for fuel/oil mix. I was referring to always using fresh fuel oil mix. It also makes a big difference and indeed makes a HUGE difference with ethanol gas.
     
  11. sparky

    sparky Active Member

    I actually bought a gallon of the Klotz Super Techniplate which is 80% syn & 20% castor. I use a few ounces every 1 to 2 weeks, and this last batch is no different.

    Shortly after I bought this oil with castor in it, I read that the castor is no good after it's been open for more than a week or two. Having a gallon jug and all, this could be the issue, but I dunno for sure.

    I wonder if there are any national gas stations that absolutely refuse to put ethanol in their gas... like Shell or Chevron or something. Usually they're the ones most mentioned for their fuel detergent (?) additives that are supposed to clean things up.
     
  12. Pablo

    Pablo Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Degummed Castor oil, and Klotz are fine after they are opened. The problem with castor oil and castor blends are AFTER they mixed with gas (again, especially ethanol) are just not storage stable. 2 weeks seems to be the practical limit. Mix it and burn it.