A
Alaskavan
Guest
This is something I'm working on for my trike, but I thought it might be applicable for any bike with a chain run long enough to use idlers.
The problem I'm addressing is that , even with a 52t chainring, I "pedal out" at 25-30mph (20" rear wheel). Since I usually cruise at 35mph, I don't bother pedaling. This has 2 impacts: 1. I'm not getting as much exercise as I feel I should, and: 2. I'm not utilizing the most efficient source of power available, me.
What I propose to do about this is to replace the second idler (there are 2 on the chain run on my trike) with a cassette with probly 3 cogs. My intention is to run a chain from the chainrings to a 14t cog on the cassette, and run the chain back to the rear wheel cassette from either a 28t cog on the mid-cassette (for highway riding), or from a 12t cog on the mid-cassette (for city riding, or in case of breakdown of the motor). Changing gears on the mid-cassette doesn't have to be "shift on the fly". I hope to be able to make it so the change will involve a simple manual adjustment (a minute or less).
This should result in having the equivalent of a 104t chainring for the highway, and somewhat less than a 52t chainring for city or non-motorized riding. I know I will get some resistance from the addition of a chain tensioner for the front chain run, but I hope the result will be worth it.
If anyone has experience, opinion, or ideas about this, I'd like to hear it.
The problem I'm addressing is that , even with a 52t chainring, I "pedal out" at 25-30mph (20" rear wheel). Since I usually cruise at 35mph, I don't bother pedaling. This has 2 impacts: 1. I'm not getting as much exercise as I feel I should, and: 2. I'm not utilizing the most efficient source of power available, me.
What I propose to do about this is to replace the second idler (there are 2 on the chain run on my trike) with a cassette with probly 3 cogs. My intention is to run a chain from the chainrings to a 14t cog on the cassette, and run the chain back to the rear wheel cassette from either a 28t cog on the mid-cassette (for highway riding), or from a 12t cog on the mid-cassette (for city riding, or in case of breakdown of the motor). Changing gears on the mid-cassette doesn't have to be "shift on the fly". I hope to be able to make it so the change will involve a simple manual adjustment (a minute or less).
This should result in having the equivalent of a 104t chainring for the highway, and somewhat less than a 52t chainring for city or non-motorized riding. I know I will get some resistance from the addition of a chain tensioner for the front chain run, but I hope the result will be worth it.
If anyone has experience, opinion, or ideas about this, I'd like to hear it.