How Do We Stop?

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by geronimo, Mar 11, 2010.

  1. geronimo

    geronimo New Member

    My coaster break isn't working properly.I had to have the sprocket center,machined larger when I put it together.----Maybe it hasn't the right clearance..internal axle..etc... BEATS ME!! It is a 24''Western Flyer,How expensive would it be for those,dual cable brakes to be installed? It'll gooo... But it won't STOP!!!
     

  2. professor

    professor Active Member

    Does the bike have any provision for even caliper brakes?
    I guess you could do V brakes( by cutting them off another bike and welding them on yours), V brakes have good stopping power. I did just that on the fork of one of my bikes.
    If you mean that you had brakes before you motorized and now, don't (I am assuming you didn't burn the brake up zooming around), something in the re-install is wrong.
     
  3. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    is your coaster brake arm secured to the frame?
    as long as the brake worked before, and you didn't take the hub all apart then it should still work. as long as the brake arm is secured to the frame, and it is seated in the hub correctly, it should work. the part of the hub that the brake arm bolts to shoudl have a flat spot on it. the brake arm hole should also have a flat spot, and these 2 flat spots should go together...the break arm can only be installed one way for it to work right.
    did you re-grease the bearings & stuff inside the hub? if you put too much grease in there, it's possible that you got grease on the brake shoes that are in the hub. too much grease will also make the brake not work.
     
  4. happycheapskate

    happycheapskate Active Member

    I greased my Hi stop coaster hub like a boat axle, and for the first couple days, it didn't have quite as much power. Then it was fine. If it is assembled correctly, and your cones are adjusted correctly (the wheel should not have "clunk clunk" amount of play when the wheel is bolted in the frame, but shouldn't be grinding the bearing balls either), you should be able to clear out the grease quickly by just riding the brake under power for a little bit till you feel it pull.

    You can buy V Brake bosses for about $1-2 each at major online bike shops, and have them welded to your frame (if it is steel, use steel. If it is aluminum, use a BMX plate adapter, or make sure you get Aluminum bosses, the pegs that V brakes screw onto.)

    You can get a whole new wheel with a 12guages 36 spoke Downhill rim and Hi stop coaster brake for $30-40 from niagracycle.com. I love mine. It was black on black with silver spokes, and the motor cog fits right on if you take the dust cap off. You can install the dust cap back over the cog by pressing it a little flatter and greasing it a little. Works for me for about 400mi now.
     
  5. Drunkskunk

    Drunkskunk Member

    even good coaster brakes suck, IMHO. I think it was spookytooth that had a prebuilt rim with a sprocket and cable operated drum brake.
     
  6. happycheapskate

    happycheapskate Active Member

    Probably. The Grubee brand offers a hub with a dedicated sprocket (no rubber washers) and a cable pulled band-type brake. This would probably have way more power than a conventional coaster brake.

    But mind that it may have a Chinese thread size for the freewheel. http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=18747
     
  7. happycheapskate

    happycheapskate Active Member

    My personal opinion is that V-brakes of any decent quality are the best and most accessible option for MB riders. The brake pads are $3-10 a set and last, and can be changed with a hex key in a couple minutes. They have plenty of stopping power for anybody but those with sloppy untrue wheels, 400lb riders and equipment, or people that live on long downgrades or ride in freezing rain. Good luck!
     
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