How does the Dimension Edge system work?

[loquin]

The friction drive has essentially twice the rolling friction on the driven tire, rather than the usual one times. But, there's no belt or chain losses.

When properly adjusted, they're fairly efficient - in the 75 percent range, I would estimate.

 

[az cra-z]

If you want to completely remove the motor (where ya gonna put it, though?), friction does seem the way to go, and DE looks like a very good setup. Only thing I would disagree with from the DE link above:

Advantage is when you want to pedal with no engine assist there is no drag. Unlike all other systems

- wrong-o, my Staton chain drive stops completely when idling or off, no drag unless you count the "tick-tick" of the left side freewheel. I've taken it off road on various surfaces, just have to go slow so as to not shake anything off.

 

[pumpbuilder]

If you want to completely remove the motor (where ya gonna put it, though?), friction does seem the way to go, and DE looks like a very good setup. Only thing I would disagree with from the DE link above: - wrong-o, my Staton chain drive stops completely when idling or off, no drag unless you count the "tick-tick" of the left side freewheel. I've taken it off road on various surfaces, just have to go slow so as to not shake anything off.

Frankly I would guess almost all chain drives operate like yours, Who knows, maybe there is a belt with zero drag as well.

One question however, can you still pedal that unit around?

 

[az cra-z]

No, Staton is the only chain drive that just stops altogether when you either let off the throttle or hit the kill switch, there aren't any other motor controls (except the choke). Belt drives don't have a motor side freewheel, either. I pedal around a lot without the motor. It's neat to be able to go back and forth between "just a bicycle" and "zooom" within a second or two.

 

[TWalker]

Here is a link, the engine on the left looks to me to be with a cent clutch so it hangs out a little more.

http://www.bikemotor.com/hybrid.html

Yea thats the insane part of friction drives they stick directly out like a huge tumor on the back of your back. My Staton GXH50 does the same, not quite as far the DE. Of course pautting a bag or something on the left helps balance it a bit.

The trick as I understand it to eliminate extra power loss is proper adjustment, since the DE is self adjusting its pretty efficient.

I will try to get some photos done tonite of my set up.

Yea I wondered how the self adjusting mechanism might help reduce drag. Thanks for the pictures, I had seen that one but I would like to see that exact setup from that angle on a bike.

Thanks

 

[Member 5549]

GEBE Advantages GEBE DisadvantagesSmooth Drive Kinda Pricey
Good Engine Selection You Really need a beefy wheel
Good Support no freewheeling
Spare/parts avail. Fixing A rear Flat can be a chore
Reliable

 

[TWalker]

No, Staton is the only chain drive that just stops altogether when you either let off the throttle or hit the kill switch, there aren't any other motor controls (except the choke). Belt drives don't have a motor side freewheel, either. I pedal around a lot without the motor. It's neat to be able to go back and forth between "just a bicycle" and "zooom" within a second or two.

Yes Staton rules on that point absolutely. I dont want that heavy gearbox though, I can imagine it would be shaky offroad, like you were going to shake somethin loose.

But at the same time at least top dead center with the inside drive.

I wouldnt want to take a side mount (GEBE, DE or any others) with weight hanging off the side either...seems to laterally stressful on the side.

I know of one guy who rides up trails removes his GEBE Robin, stashes it in the woods and rides trails.

I cannot find "the perfect" kit so I am leaning heavily towards my pushers...perhaps this time a Dragnfly kit with my own engine.

Quick release the trailer and ride! It has its own disadvantages of course. ya wont be towin it home if breaks down. lock it up and come back. But it can be customized very nicely for carrying.

And it wont screw up my $2000 bike....I hope.....

 

[SirJakesus]

The friction drives may stick out further to the left hand side of the bike HOWEVER they do give you a good platform for cargo storage on top of the channel and on the righthand side of the rack. I don't notice the imbalance either and stock dept store bike kickstands hold the bike up solid. This cannot be said for the staton chain drive that makes the bike very top heavy requiring careful standing of the bike or a special kickstand to keep the thing from toppling over from a slight breeze.
As far as riding a staton chain drive off road or simply by pedal power alone you're not going to shake anything loose, it's just an awkward experience to have the high CG while pedaling or hauling the thing. I've pedaled my FD raised and I barely notice it, even when I'm really whipping the bike to the left and right to force more power through the pedals.
I have no experience with pushers but I would assume if the right quick disconnect was used they would be the perfect solution for hauling massive loads or going somewhere to ride conventionally by disconnecting. Their downfall is the extra drag of a trailer if you absolutely have to pedal that thing home and they're not exactly "stealth" or even technically legal in most places if you're using something like a 5hp briggs. Personally I don't care about "the law" as long as you're not infringing on anybody else or attracting the po-po but it should be part of the decision making process nonetheless.
I've found knobbies are only REALLY needed on the front wheel to keep the bike from slipping out from under you. Any experienced cyclist can handling the slight skipping around a smooth tire will produce on the back. Heck, some powerslides are fun anyways
I've done 2 HT's (one still motored), the staton NuVinci and now 2 staton friction drives (one of which I haven't willed myself to ride yet since the roads are still nasty.) Of all these systems I enjoy the friction MOST for riding on the streets. I use the NV mostly for exploring rough terrain and off-roading and I leave the HT's for my pops to tinker with as I'm less than enthused about that system now. Buy one, you won't be disappointed UNLESS you're asking it to go mud bogging or puddle skipping regularly.

 

[pumpbuilder]

First off I am really sorry about not getting those photos taken yet. I am a product designer who invents new ways of using old stuff so while some call me an inventor its not technically true. Anyway my latest and for sure greatest product is at a critical point for production and marketing and I have not been able to make it home before dark to take the pics.

Tomorrow will be no better as I have to drive 4 hours to use it to save about 2000 gallons of gas from turning into a environmental mess so I will be lucky just to make it home as after I save the gas I need to recover and clean about 50 gallons of mud. This all takes some time. So sorry I have not the photos up yet but I am hoping for good weather this weekend as next week has me flying around the country. Eventually they will be here I promise.

One quick note to Walker, with an 11-13 LB system the few LB's of an engine sticking out the side are unnoticeable when you are moving. You will need a better then standard kickstand however unless you have a bike like mine. The weight shows up when parked.

 

[dchrist]

TWalker...I recently purchased the DE Honda system and have it installed on an old Nisiki MB and thought I might share with you my experience of installation of their system. The design is fundamentally solid and I found the folks at DE to be pleasant and helpful...no real problems there. I did notice however a general sense of disorganization, missing parts, brackets that didn't fit, burrs, could have been better machined, etc...fairly minor but the system does require you to be comfortable with tools and tweaking here and there and here and there again. Instructions are minimal and I thought for the price of the system they could do better. The main bracket has one of three locations to mount to the frame, one pretty solid and the other two not so solid...I've included some photos that includes an additional bracket that I made that anchors the system...without it there was quite a bit of play and it was difficult to keep the roller properly adjusted above the wheel. The other difficulty was the mounting of the disengagement handle. It worked fine on a standard handlebar stem, but I had an adjustable stem that allowed me to maintain a more upright riding position....sooooo I had to fabricate a bracket to fit that...I haven't been able to ride much due to the weather here in Pa. But so far (what riding I've done) the system does seem to perform as advertised and I would agree pretty much with what everyone else has said. I think the biggest selling point of this system over others is the ability to completely disengage the system from the bike, especially going down a big hill...nice option to have. But I did seriously consider the Staton chain drive with their free wheel system...Good luck.