Chain Tensioner Industrial tensioner

Discussion in 'Transmission / Drivetrain' started by mauicruiser, Aug 3, 2008.

  1. mauicruiser

    mauicruiser New Member

    After 3 miles I broke the stock tensioner by dumping the clutch at high speed causing the chain to jump then jam between spokes and sprocket locking the rear wheel. Oops. Won't do that again.
    I am now in search of a better setup. So I ask the forum;
    What is the best setup and where do I get it?
    I was flipping through the Grainger catalog and found these tensioners. Maybe overkill. (see PDF link) Since the chain is slack on the bottom when accelerating but slack on top when starting, I think dual tensioners would be ideal. (see page 9)
    What works for you guys?

  2. brydonb

    brydonb Member

    i have been using no tensioner and my setup has been going really good...
  3. CAN YOU SAY BULKEY :shock:
    Im trying to make a spring loaded tensionerfor my project. Ive already tryed a swing arm type, not enough room. imworking on a liner design if I can get it to work il post pics.
  4. mauicruiser

    mauicruiser New Member

    I like the idea of no tensioner but my sprocket is not exactly centered on the wheel after like 3 attempts so the chain is loose then I turn the rear wheel 180 degrees then it's tight. I had to drill that sprocket out to 1 5/8" to make it fit over my dust cover. I guess it's acceptable for now but I think i'm going to take apart an old clothes dryer and use the tensioner setup from there because it's free.
    I found these really nice ones from ZTR racing but they cost $80.
    Will post pics when I get the free tensioner working.
  5. mountain80

    mountain80 Member

    I went a different sort of way with my tensioner. First of all my sprocket is not running exactly true and i have dialed it and resnugged it twice so oh well, it runs out about 1/16- 3/32 of an inch but i run a good tsubaki 40 pitch chain which is 1/4 wide at inside of plates and the sprocket is 1/8'' wide so it works anyways. I found an 12T sprocket and a metric bearing which slides over the 12mm bolt that goes into the bracket that normally holds the economical plastic slider that comes with the HT kits. I bored out the sprocket so there is a 0.002'' pressfit onto the bearing. I shaved the teeth down about 1/8'' so the sprocket rolls through the chain easily. I adjusted it so there is about 1/2'' slack at tightest point and it has never failed me after 700 miles. I popped the grease seal on the bearing regreased it and it works flawlessly. Total cost for the bolt, washers(to space out the sprocket) gear and bearing was about 7 dollars in total. Hope this helps.