Kit chain not fitting...

Lunatuck

Member
Local time
9:51 AM
Joined
Aug 16, 2019
Messages
62
I just got a new wheel and sprocket adapter. I installed it all and centered it, but on my first test run, I broke my chain.

So I took my extra chain feom the same kit my motor came from and went to install it. It binds and seems to be the wrong size for both the sprocket and drive gear. It binded in the drive case and wouldnt completely seat around the sprocket.

I put the old one on and it seems to fit fine. Am I safe to order any old 415 chain? Why the heck would a chain from the kit not fit? Am I missing something?

Edit: Hmm. Seems like the chain is the right size, but slightly larger overall. Its rubbing a portion of the gear case cover. I can dremel it down. Looks like it was thinned during manufacturing, just not quite enough.

Edit 2: Dremeled a bit off, but something is binding. Alignment seems perfect. Can’t fogure it out yet.
 
Last edited:
I dissembled and reassembled the entire drive-train about 5 times. I can minimize the popping noise that I'm associating with binding, but I'm not quite sure what's going on. The noise sounds like it's coming from the clutch actuator case, but I've shaved the rear end that was grinding and I slightly tilted my motor a bit more to make sure it wasn't rubbing on the top of the case.

I'm wondering if the chain needs to break in a bit. It seemed to be tight (grabbing)around the sprockets.

I'm considering trying a engine mounted tensioner on it, but am also concerned because it should be working as is. I just can't figure out whats causing the noise. It sounds like the chain rubs about 5 links worth then is fine, then 10s later it happens again. It doesn't seem to be the master link.

Fortunately, it's good enough that I can ride it cautiously. I think there's a chance the chain will just break in.
 
Alot of the gears aren't perfectly round and make the chain go tight then loose and so on, a lot of them dont have teeth that are the same thickness causing the chain to want to stick to the sprocket. I half link bicycle chain and file each tooth so that they fit nice and move freely on the chain.
 
Stock chains are crap apparently I went straight away to a BMX KMC chain and thinned the drive sprocket with a angle grinder.
 
I'm thinking it's just the burrs on the nerw sprocket thats causing issues, though there is noise coming from the clutch actuator area. I'm hoping that it'll break in in the first 10-15mi. The noise makes me concerned about binding, but for now, I'm riding motor off until it seems as well aligned as I can get it.
 
That's an inherent flaws the the case cove seldom fits it crushes the chain either file it or back off the the screws hold the clutch push your bike til noise stops then tighten the bolts push it repeat it let the chain grind it out case is aluminum chain is Cobalt allow won't hurt the chain.

Surprise you can take a chain out of a kit and have it fit.
Most all kits you half to remove 3 or 4 links.

But if your thinking of buying a new chain get a 420 it has 5 more mm of play much tuffer resist breaking.
 
That's an inherent flaws the the case cove seldom fits it crushes the chain either file it or back off the the screws hold the clutch push your bike til noise stops then tighten the bolts push it repeat it let the chain grind it out case is aluminum chain is Cobalt allow won't hurt the chain.

Surprise you can take a chain out of a kit and have it fit.
Most all kits you half to remove 3 or 4 links.

But if your thinking of buying a new chain get a 420 it has 5 more mm of play much tuffer resist breaking.

I did remove links for tension. When I say it didn’t fit, the links wouldn’t seat on the sprocket. I think ot was the squared off teeth. 5mi and its not happening as much. Either the chain is breaking in, or the sprocket it.
 
Back
Top