I just build an 80cc bike. When I tried to peddle it around it seemed like the chain was stuck. It was like the bike tire wasn't moving. It was like it was trying to start even when I pulled the clutch in. I read that I should try to tighten the clutch. That didn't work. Any suggestions...
Motorized bike problem
- Thread starter Liam
- Start date
FurryOnTheInside
In Memoriam
It was like it was trying to start even when I pulled the clutch in. I read that I should try to tighten the clutch. That didn't work. Any suggestions.
Yeah I think so. It's a no-name/generic Chinese 2-stroke? (66 not 80 by the way) I noticed that mine had this problem even though I am yet to actually get it on the bike.
Start by removing the clutch cover from the right hand side of the engine.
Check that when you pull the clutch arm (on the left of the engine) toward you that the clutch plate is actually separating/ moving away from the big ring gear.
If it isn't, you just need to set up the clutch properly as per the million threads about it that already exist on the forum (use the search function on the top right of the screen or browse the forum)
If it is separating:
Carefully remove the flower nut retaining screw with a decent & correctly sized screwdriver.
Pull the clutch lever in and lock in place.
Press the clutch plate in and spin off the flower nut.
The clutch plate will then fall away. There should be a light spring as well. (If not, that could be your problem) None of the clutch pads should come away, stuck on the clutch plate. (If they do, that could be your problem)
Now test again pushing the wheel around/ bike forward (with the sparkplug in place so you have the compression resistance).
Is the clutch hub (thing with three prongs on it) rotating freely inside the ring gear (thing with clutch pads on it)?
If not: put you gloves on and grab a rag. Hold the outside edge of the ring gear carefully and roll the bike forward. Don't trap your fingers in the gears! The clutch hub-->ring gear bearing will suddenly free up, and the clutch hub will rotate freely as it's meant to.
Now you really should re-grease the bearing. Unfortunately the grease port is on the back of the bearing, and it's a pain to get that 19mm nut off the lock washer, but with a socket wrench and a fair bit of force it will come off.
Use your puller tool that came with the kit to extract the clutch hub and ring gear so you can access the back of the bearing. Put some nice thick grease in through the little hole. A small syringe would be great for this. A small pea sized amount is possibly about right, and if you can turn the bearing as you squeeze it in that would be great too.
(Don't pump it as full as you can or the excess will spin out onto the clutch pads when you ride the bike.)
I have been advised that this should be checked/re-greased about every 300 miles.
Reassemble everything and you should be fine to continue setting and fine tuning the clutch as per the million threads about it on the forum.
I hope this helps you.
Yeah I think so. It's a no-name/generic Chinese 2-stroke? (66 not 80 by the way) I noticed that mine had this problem even though I am yet to actually get it on the bike.
Start by removing the clutch cover from the right hand side of the engine.
Check that when you pull the clutch arm (on the left of the engine) toward you that the clutch plate is actually separating/ moving away from the big ring gear.
If it isn't, you just need to set up the clutch properly as per the million threads about it that already exist on the forum (use the search function on the top right of the screen or browse the forum)
If it is separating:
Carefully remove the flower nut retaining screw with a decent & correctly sized screwdriver.
Pull the clutch lever in and lock in place.
Press the clutch plate in and spin off the flower nut.
The clutch plate will then fall away. There should be a light spring as well. (If not, that could be your problem) None of the clutch pads should come away, stuck on the clutch plate. (If they do, that could be your problem)
Now test again pushing the wheel around/ bike forward (with the sparkplug in place so you have the compression resistance).
Is the clutch hub (thing with three prongs on it) rotating freely inside the ring gear (thing with clutch pads on it)?
If not: put you gloves on and grab a rag. Hold the outside edge of the ring gear carefully and roll the bike forward. Don't trap your fingers in the gears! The clutch hub-->ring gear bearing will suddenly free up, and the clutch hub will rotate freely as it's meant to.
Now you really should re-grease the bearing. Unfortunately the grease port is on the back of the bearing, and it's a pain to get that 19mm nut off the lock washer, but with a socket wrench and a fair bit of force it will come off.
Use your puller tool that came with the kit to extract the clutch hub and ring gear so you can access the back of the bearing. Put some nice thick grease in through the little hole. A small syringe would be great for this. A small pea sized amount is possibly about right, and if you can turn the bearing as you squeeze it in that would be great too.
(Don't pump it as full as you can or the excess will spin out onto the clutch pads when you ride the bike.)
I have been advised that this should be checked/re-greased about every 300 miles.
Reassemble everything and you should be fine to continue setting and fine tuning the clutch as per the million threads about it on the forum.
I hope this helps you.
Frankenstein
Deceased - Frankenstein 1991 - 2018
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So you've decided on a 2 over a 4 stroke then?
Frankenstein
Deceased - Frankenstein 1991 - 2018
- Local time
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And my original thought to a wheel not moving- the chain is locked up in the clutch arm cover, that's the one on the left side (If you are sitting on it) and closest to the rear wheel, it has an arm attached that you can see move when you pull the clutch lever.
Take it off carefully as not to lose the bearing or post inside, and you should see a chain that's bunched up against the top of that housing area above the sprocket.
This happens with an under-tensioned chain when attempting to start the bike.
If it is not that then you have an over tight flower nut, or your sprocket is way under adjusted, if you use that smaller spring on the clutch cable ditch it, and get a proper brass cable lock.
To be sure, please explain what you mean by it always feeling like the engine is engaged. Can you feel the engine turn over if you try hard enough? Or does it sit like a brick?
FurryOnTheInside
In Memoriam
Who me? Goodness yes. Electric is an option later but not for the long distance.
Last edited:
KCvale
In memory of KCvale 1959 - 2019
The chain probably is stuck where it goes into the engine, seen it alot, the 415 chain binds out on the drive gear.
Pull that left back cover off and look.
If you see scratchs on the cover, that is where the chain is binding, notch out that part of the cover with a grinder or the like and put it back on.
The mag cover in front of it will cover the the hack for ascetics but you chain won't bind on the sprocket.
BIG BOBBY
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nothing wrong with taking a tuned china girl long distance. you just gotta stop every half hour/45minutes and let it cool. (which just so happens to be my butt-rest interval-lol) and run your mix slightly "oily-er". exhaust drips only mean that your motor is nice and lubricated. if your plug isn't black or shiny,...a little more oil in your gas is JUST FINE,..and your wristpin bearing will live longer. when you get to point "B" go back to your standard oil/fuel ratio. protect,.. and tend to your motor 2, 3,4 times a day and you wont have to walk
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