MZMiami 6.00CC High Comp Head and Spark Plug Reach

Discussion in 'Performance Mods' started by SeanPatrick, Jul 27, 2015.

  1. SeanPatrick

    SeanPatrick Member

    I posted part of this in my build thread but I wanted to make a separate thread to help anyone else who is using this head.


    When I got this head I bolted it on and ran it without checking anything first. I figured whoever designed it knew what they were doing (I've learned to never assume that in this hobby).It felt like LESS compression than my stock slant head. Now I know why. After looking at it when I tore down my motor I see the plug was no where near deep enough.
    It's this head from MZMiami http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOTORIZED-BI...item4198654527

    This is with the stock equivalent plug. I took the picture with an NGK BR6HS installed.
    You can't even see it down in there. This would seem to be where my low comp was coming from.
    P1040157.jpg

    This is with an NGK B6ES installed. "E" is longer than "H"
    P1040156.jpg

    for more reading on those plug numbers http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/partnumberkey.pdf

    Hope this helps anyone else using this head or facing a similar problem.
     

  2. florida_rider

    florida_rider New Member

    after installing the E plug,did you notice a difference in compression?
     
  3. SeanPatrick

    SeanPatrick Member

    I have not gotten around to trying it yet. I will report back with what I find. I would assume it would have higher comp. a half of inch of spark plug worth was removed from the equation.
     
  4. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    pretty typical...

    you think if you were going to change from a standard plug, in any respect, you may as well go to a c or d series and utilise the extra space for more cooling fins...

    that was just the way i saw it when i made a few myself...

    the water cooled head did need an E thread plug... PICT0343 (Large).jpg PICT0345 (Large).jpg


    you also gotta fiddle with the ideal heat ranges for a different head due to the extra heat being drawn from the plug. ie, go hotter... down in numbers for ngk.
     
  5. SeanPatrick

    SeanPatrick Member

    Right before I found out about my reach problem, I had ordered a bunch of H plugs between 4 and 9. I'll be ordering more in E now.

    Got any more pics of that sick set up? What pipe is that? I'm working on mounting an RM60 pipe right now.
     
  6. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    somewhere...i aint digging em up...i got threads somewhere ;)

    http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?40617-at-it-again-a-real-pipe-this-time
    hard find...

    handmade, did a few of them. port matched, tuned for the engine... huge difference. no wonder i bag out all these botched jobs :rofl:


    i could post the dimensions for the 8000rpm one i guess... you gotta do all the hard bits! but i made my first pipe with a fence stake and and a hammer as my "tools"... now i have a roller. pretty cheap ;) the tapers are still hard though...

    hint... download a program called "cone". make your mock ups in about 200gsm paper, its thick. almost cardboard i guess.. buy a ream at office supplies, that program "cone" is paper intensive!

    from dimensions (ill post em eventually) you divide each section into easily managed lengths with 1 or 2mm increases in diameter per piece. then get some wire, mark the length of each piece on it, and figure out the bends, placing each one on a mark.

    using cone, you then adjust the end angle on each piece to half the bend angle you desire...

    the paper gives you an idea of the rotation youll need in each piece.... then its a matter of copying everything out in sheet steel and out with the stake and hammer...and tinsnips etc, of course.

    also, try to make your bends small...it takes a lot of pieces. i tried doing one with about 6 joins through a 200 degree bend... really nasty, could feel the turbulence inside it fighting every step of the way... struggled to hit band, barely held it... but the exact same pipe done with a smoother 12 bend curve was perfect...

    the carbon deposits inside are a good sign of any flow restriction...
     
  7. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    and as for water cooling...maybe, just maybe if i had thought of using a pulse pump/fuel pump off the crank pressure, it may still be in use... it had issues as a "thermosyphon" setup... i just recall one particularly chilly night, i had a tpiece as a vent on it...

    it starts boiling, sprays some steam out, so i pop my finger over the tee...

    and suddenly it creates a vacuum in the radiator, the waters flash boiling in the head, and recondensing in the radiator, my finger was sucked onto the tee piece, and it ran at about 70C or so at that reduced pressure...


    basically it was fine from cold but if i stopped for even a minute it seemed to go vapor lock and overheat, spraying boiling water over everything :) vinyl hoses didnt help...

    another thing to think of remaking :) thermosyphon would work if i had the outlet on top, and about 3/4 inch ID.
     
  8. SeanPatrick

    SeanPatrick Member

    I got as far as a 2D model on paper and downloaded cone before I realized there was no way I could build one in my appartment. I settled on a suzuki RM60 pipe. I'm starting school in two weeks to be a machinist. So many I'll re-attempt later.
     
  9. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    determination never hurt...

    small gas stove, blowtorch and start brazing :)

    people have no ingenuity anymore :(
     
  10. butre

    butre Well-Known Member

    brazing is a lost art, and even the people who know how to do it think of welding first. I'm guilty of it, all the time I go for the stick welder even when I should know that brazing would be more appropriate.
     
  11. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    actually, brazing has seen a sudden resurgence in favour...ask any panelbeater. they all using brass wire in the migs! less damage to the steel, softer, and well...iunno... fine for anything non-structural.

    for a 2 stroke exhaust... prob best to get at least the flange/header welded, first few joins in brass/bronze and then silver solder the rest with aerosol can thickness. easy to work, dont blow holes in it, can use way thinner stuff than welding, blah blah. never seen a two stroke exhaust glowing.

    my only gripe with having done it for a few years (brazing) is not having gotten a healthier supply of carbide and silver solder for myself...mmm, nice cadmium containing stuff that flowed....oh how it flowed! plumbing stuff just doesnt compare :(

    really need some for this induction heater im making...ironic, isnt it... and i really dont want to melt down any cutlery just yet... sigh... expensive stuff.