This is a USED carb that came on a bike, i bought a rebuild kit from gasbike because the yutz that i bought it from had practically sheared the heads of the adjustment screws off. So all the screws are new, i dont know what position the screws need to be in. The float was replaced, i took the other off, and put the new one on. I dont know if there is a certain position it needs to be in or not. What i do know is that i had the hoses linked up the wrong way. they have now been connected the same way that the carb was hooked up in video that was posted by bideronit13. The fuel valve shouldnt have to be shut when its stored.
Carby New carb, bike will NOT start
- Thread starter willfargo
- Start date
bideronit13
Member
Ive been working on carbs since I was young. I rebuilt one in the dark on the side of a road. Only because I new it and a seal was leaking or something. It wasnt a bike either I was under the hood of a truck.
You can check my profile and see what Im doing with carbs on there. You'll get there just try to understand the thing so here's a start you need to read.
Theres alot more info on google you just need to change the search words like CNS CARB adjustment, CNS CARB settings, CNS carb tunning. CNS carb mixture screws, cns carb mixture screw specs So on and so on
Theres a bunch of reading to do on the carb you have.
I looked at google link below
http://www.google.com/#hl=en&sugexp....,cf.osb&fp=bd638b897581bb57&biw=1024&bih=630
Heres the instructionsbelow
http://www.grubeeinc.com/USA/STARFIRE SKYHAWK WEB INSTRUCTIONS.htm
Post Number 9 is a members info on the carb.
http://motorbicycling.com/f4/cns-carburetor-5437.html
the info below
To be honest i am still fine tuning everything in but what has worked so far is to start the bike allow for warm up before any adjustments. unless it is racing then back the idle down. After warm up...
1. raise the idle up some to allow it to breath
2. adjust the Air/Fuel adjustment screw in (clockwise) until the motor begins to stumble.
3. Back the screw back out 3 full turns (anti clockwise)
4. Lower the idle back to normal rpms
These settings make for a rough cold idle but IMO thats the sign of a proper warm motor setup use the first setting of the remote choke at first.
Saying that take in mind that i am in Florida and nearly at sea level but those settings should get you close enough to make fine adjustments. I have noticed a big difference in performance mainly in middle rpms i don't really run WOT i keep it in the power band like a 2stroke wants to breath. Higher altitudes will run leaner than lower altitudes i believe but we all love to tinker so make an adjustment try it out.
I use a felt tip pen (sharpie) to mark settings i like on the carb body makes for easy setup as temps can vary 30* in 24 hours
DISCLAIMER
I am not a professional mechanic and this information can in now way be held against me. I live by the creed if you don't know what your doing a $5 tip normally gets some help from someone who does.
You can check my profile and see what Im doing with carbs on there. You'll get there just try to understand the thing so here's a start you need to read.
Theres alot more info on google you just need to change the search words like CNS CARB adjustment, CNS CARB settings, CNS carb tunning. CNS carb mixture screws, cns carb mixture screw specs So on and so on
Theres a bunch of reading to do on the carb you have.
I looked at google link below
http://www.google.com/#hl=en&sugexp....,cf.osb&fp=bd638b897581bb57&biw=1024&bih=630
Heres the instructionsbelow
http://www.grubeeinc.com/USA/STARFIRE SKYHAWK WEB INSTRUCTIONS.htm
Post Number 9 is a members info on the carb.
http://motorbicycling.com/f4/cns-carburetor-5437.html
the info below
To be honest i am still fine tuning everything in but what has worked so far is to start the bike allow for warm up before any adjustments. unless it is racing then back the idle down. After warm up...
1. raise the idle up some to allow it to breath
2. adjust the Air/Fuel adjustment screw in (clockwise) until the motor begins to stumble.
3. Back the screw back out 3 full turns (anti clockwise)
4. Lower the idle back to normal rpms
These settings make for a rough cold idle but IMO thats the sign of a proper warm motor setup use the first setting of the remote choke at first.
Saying that take in mind that i am in Florida and nearly at sea level but those settings should get you close enough to make fine adjustments. I have noticed a big difference in performance mainly in middle rpms i don't really run WOT i keep it in the power band like a 2stroke wants to breath. Higher altitudes will run leaner than lower altitudes i believe but we all love to tinker so make an adjustment try it out.
I use a felt tip pen (sharpie) to mark settings i like on the carb body makes for easy setup as temps can vary 30* in 24 hours
DISCLAIMER
I am not a professional mechanic and this information can in now way be held against me. I live by the creed if you don't know what your doing a $5 tip normally gets some help from someone who does.
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