Newcastle, NSW, Australia

[heathyoung]

I'm thinking of mounting the fuel tank from the engine elsewhere - I have a 7.2AH SLA in a plastic box on the support rails, so mounting the fuel tank on top of that would work OK, failing that, there are quite a few different fuel tanks available from kart places.

Not sure how fuel safe the box is though - IP65 Polycarbonate. Hmmm.
S= Fair resistance, etching after 7 days exposure to reagent , spose thats OK.

Also found a tacho circuit I might build for interests sake
http://www.josepino.com/pic_projects/index.php?tachometer2.jpc

Will probably use the killswitch wiring (its across the magneto) as a source for the pulses, optoisolated with a 4N25 or something.

 

[heathyoung]

Took the blackstar kit apart to have a good look at it...

Some good news and some bad news...

Good news is - the bolt pattern is a standard 70mm spacing, same as a Honda GX35 - the clutch would fit OK.

Bad news is - the pulley is very different to the GEBE ones - its threaded onto the shaft, 10mm dia but an odd thread pitch (fine pitch) - but not left hand thread...

Which means (as far as I know) that the GEBE pulleys wont fit. Farnell do sell aluminium ones, with a centre hole drilled in them - but they don't have a tooth count less than 15 in the 16mm wide version (they do in the 10mm wide, but the pully width makes up for differences in the belt tracking)

Sigh. Its almost a gebe, but its full of flaws.

 

[quay1962]

hello and welcome to MBc...sounds like you are having a time of it...maybe looking in this thread might help http://www.motoredbikes.com/forumdisplay.php?f=86 good luck on your endeavors and happy motoring...

 

[Aussie_Glenn]

OK, started my build and ran into the same problems.

Replaced QR axle with longer, solid axle. No problems was expecting that.
Mounted the engine and tried to line everything up and........the drive belt fouls the rear brakes!

So I think my options are convert to disc brake on the rear (maybe not a bad idea but pricey) or consider alternative mounting options to clear the calipers (include make some alternative mounts)

I notice the bike on the ebay pictures is a jardtail with linear pull rear brakes like mine. It either has some weird frame geometry, engine is mounted way back (doesn't appear to be).

Think I'll retire to the shed with a beer or three and ponder options over the weekend and wait for inspiration.

Cheers,
Glenn

 

[heathyoung]

I turned th tank around on mine, so that the filler is on the exhaust side, and tilted the engine so the belt doesn't touch the brakes.

It actually went better like this, I think it was suffering some major fuel starvation issues before!

 

[cookcamp]

Hi Heath, sounds like you sorted your fitting problems out then. I just completed another fitting of the same kit for a friend, and apart from using a spare wheel with axle nuts, have had no issues, the belt even clears the brakes in the straight up position! Cheers Martin.

 

[jlebh1]

why not just buy the optional bike that the engine fits perfectly with the engine I am thinking of getting one of the blackstar kits there are a few people selling them now but i think i might get one from blackstar direct? are they OK?

 

[heathyoung]

I ended up on-selling the blackstar kit on ebay, there was a LOT of stuff that needed resolving with the design.

The bike that they have is too small for me - I need an XL frame, I'm 6'3" so a small frame is no good.

Change the carb diaphragm with a genuine WYK walbro item, replace all of the bolts with good quality with nylocks, use loctite everywhere, get the thicker belt as the thin one stretches BADLY and needs constant adjustment. Use a better sparkplug (NGK) and replace the fuel filter with a whippersnipper unit as the stock unit is big and sucks air when you go around corners too fast.

The gearing is poor for the engine power too. Also, you will break the weld in the clutch bell if you keep on the power down hills and let off it mid way (engine braking) Its a bugger to stop this from happening so keep it in mind.