Phantom 85 won’t start

That carb is a one big air leak. Try the other carb and see if it starts. Even if it runs poorly, then you know it was the carb.
This. 1000 times this. Put the stock Bofeng carb on. That style of clone you have is notoriously finicky and hard to get running right. I promise you there is no extra power to really be had with it.
 
This. 1000 times this. Put the stock Bofeng carb on. That style of clone you have is notoriously finicky and hard to get running right. I promise you there is no extra power to really be had with it.
I’ve had no problems with them in the past on two different motors but I am starting to think it’s just not gonna work with the p85
How do you feel about how well the velocity stack are made for these bofang/my style carbs I have one and was gonna use that and the sock method (cuz I really can get much else to fit I am wondering if it would actually have any effect or is it just metal do hickey that looks slightly cooler
 
I’ve had no problems with them in the past on two different motors but I am starting to think it’s just not gonna work with the p85
How do you feel about how well the velocity stack are made for these bofang/my style carbs I have one and was gonna use that and the sock method (cuz I really can get much else to fit I am wondering if it would actually have any effect or is it just metal do hickey that looks slightly cooler
Plain out simple here...Doing ANY modifications to a P-85 before the first 300 mile breakin period is doomed to failure.

This is one of the reasons I have not been very active in any of your postings as you seem hell bent on modifying things like changing the carburetor and insisting on doing things the China Girl way, NOT the way the P-85 is designed...It is a much different animal that a CG motor because the cylinder itself is a modified clone of a Stihl MS-460 chainsaw cylinder, supplied stock with a 52mm windowed piston and OZ type reed valve with 5 to 6 HP right out of the box, not the usual CG motor which is only 2 to 2.95 HP out of the box.

STOP thinking you are going to use modifications as a way out of your problems here and get it back to basics the way it came so you can be helped to adjust things properly to get it to even run correctly.
 
Plain out simple here...Doing ANY modifications to a P-85 before the first 300 mile breakin period is doomed to failure.

This is one of the reasons I have not been very active in any of your postings as you seem hell bent on modifying things like changing the carburetor and insisting on doing things the China Girl way, NOT the way the P-85 is designed...It is a much different animal that a CG motor because the cylinder itself is a modified clone of a Stihl MS-460 chainsaw cylinder, supplied stock with a 52mm windowed piston and OZ type reed valve with 5 to 6 HP right out of the box, not the usual CG motor which is only 2 to 2.95 HP out of the box.

STOP thinking you are going to use modifications as a way out of your problems here and get it back to basics the way it came so you can be helped to adjust things properly to get it to even run correctly.
Yea I get that but my problem is the stock air filter does not fit on my frame and the carb Was very much running for a while before I had the backfire I would love to have to stock config on the bike but room is limited that’s why I was gonna go to the g2 reed valve in the first place Becuase I already have it and the only reason I was gonna use the clone Becuase the bofang was cutting out at 3/4 - full but your saying stock is the way to go completely and I am not disagreeing I just need a air filter that not gonna make the bofang a s**t show
 
Yea I get that but my problem is the stock air filter does not fit on my frame and the carb Was very much running for a while before I had the backfire I would love to have to stock config on the bike but room is limited that’s why I was gonna go to the g2 reed valve in the first place Becuase I already have it and the only reason I was gonna use the clone Becuase the bofang was cutting out at 3/4 - full but your saying stock is the way to go completely and I am not disagreeing I just need a air filter that not gonna make the bofang a s**t show
Do you have a picture of the stock carb fitment? I am curious to see just how tight it is.

As far as using the sock method. I won't argue with you. The original filter probably filters worse than a sock would. If that can get it working for you, go for it.

As Damien said, get it broken in on the stock carb. Tweak the main jet size if needed, and after a few tanks and the thing is broken in, then try and figure out this carb if you still have the itch.

As he also said, these things are double the power completely stock, of any other engine out there. They don't need gimmicks and cheap upgrades to make power.
 
Then don't put the air filter cover on then...take the plastic retainer out of the housing that holds the foam in place and just screw that onto the carburetor rather than trying to fit the entire air filter housing on where it won't fit.

Sometimes, you have to use ingenuity and just think out of the box...lol.

Your elevation above sea level in Sioux City is bewtween 1000 to 1500 ft above sea level...Make sure that your C clip on the needle valve of the BoFeng carby is set in the very middle postion on the needle valve.

Be sure that when you mix your gasoline and oil that you have 6.4 ounces of CONVENTIONAL 2 cycle oil such as Valvoline multi-purpose 2 cycle oil that you can get at Autozone, mixed with one gallon of gasoline, preferably Ethano-Free gasoline and that you have actually mixed it in a 1 gallon gas container and NOT the gas tank, because you have to vigorously shake that mix ration together in the jusg before pouring it into the tank...Otherwise it is not mixed properly and can cause you all sorts of problems.

This 6.4 ounces oil per one gallon of gas has to be done for breakin purposes for at least the first 300 miles with a Phantom and you must break it in NOT going all Ga-Ga wide open throttle with it while it is breaking in and vary your throttle speeds all during the breakin period as well.

Only go to synthetic oil AFTER breakin is over with.

Also, after every single heat cycle, that you retorque your four bolts on top of the cylinder to 144 inch pounds of torque every single time so your not leaking fuel and sucking in air from the bottom gaskets...You may well have to do this for the first 200 miles until everything seats in correctly.
 
The original filter probably filters worse than a sock would. If that can get it working for you, go for it.
I would be using a piece for nylon stocking long before I would use a thick sock as the nylon would be less air restrictive than a mans sock...lol...Keep in mind he was backfiring which could well be a build up of unignited fuel possibly due to air restriction.
 
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