Please point me to thread describing tire roller replacement

Discussion in 'Friction Drive' started by chrisnbush, Aug 1, 2008.

  1. chrisnbush

    chrisnbush Member

    Must be in here somewhere, I tried searching google within this site, but no dice.

    Probably so obvious nobody posted it. The manufacturer sent me a new tire roller as the old one wore out. How do I remove the old one ? I am thinking of tapping with hammer + block of wood on threaded end to push it out of the drive unit, in the direction away from the motor (after removing the centrifugual clutch sleeve from the threads).

    This is the only way I can see to do it as the bearings don't appear to have any retaining clips, and I am thinking they are just pressed in. If I tap them out, will I be able to get them in again with the new roller ?

    I got the whole deal from livefastmotors, I have emailed him for support, but thought someone here might know.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    cb
     

  2. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    I just replaced my bearings and upsized to 1.5" roller on my Staton friction drive, which might be different from yours. My roller is one-piece with one side threaded for clutch drum. I had a hunch it'd be difficult to separate the old drum and spindle, so I ordered new replacement parts.

    Like you, I couldn't find any detailed info of removing/reinstalling the drive assembly. Once you dig in, everything seems logical and obvious like you mentioned.

    Remove the engine. If you're going to discard the entire assembly, pound or press the complete friction drive assembly TOWARDS the engine-side. Remove the outside bearing's c-clip, which is located inside the aluminum housing. (The inside bearing's c-clip is hidden between the spacer and aluminum housing.) Then pound or press the assembly out the engine-side. If you're re-using your parts, it'd be easier to remove the drum while everything's still in the housing. I used a chain-type vise grip on the spindle and a vise grip on the clutch drum's outer edge. It was a last resort tactic, as the removal damaged the drum.

    Reverse the procedure to reinstall. If you don't have a puller or press, have a machinist install the assembly. When hand-tightening the drum, be aware that its inner edge might scrape the bottom of the engine's clutch housing. This will result in a loud, continuous scraping noise until the engine revs seat the clutch drum. It will sound like major engine/clutch failure. Don't panic. In a few minutes of running time, the clutch drum will seat, and the noise will completely disappear.

    Be careful when reinstalling your engine if you have the Staton friction drive kit. Clearance between the engine spacer and the four mounting bolts is extremely tight. To prevent crossthreading, I installed new bolts and cleaned the threaded bolt holes.

    Good luck and be patient.
     
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