Project: OVERKILL

[appye]

hm. I was thinking. I wonder if maybe I have too much grease in the gearbox? I basically put the entire tube that came from staton in there. I ask because I am thinking that maybe with the amount that I have in there that it could be causing some undue resistance to the gears at speed and reducing my mileage.

 

[kawasaki999]

Appye, turn the screw farthest from motor 1 1/2 turns and closest to the motor 1 1/8 to 1 1/4, I am surprized you havent toasted that motor! I would run another gal of 25:1. You need about 250 miles on it before switching oil. IMO. I get 150+ mpg but I cruse 30 mph or less.

 

[appye]

Man, am I glad I have followed the advice of you guys. I definately don't want a toasted motor. Curiously, it seems that the performance of the engine was degraded ever so slightly with the richer mixture. At least I hope that was the cause. I was stuck at about 30mph on the hill I was easily doing 35 on before. the flats seemed more or less the same though. Anyway, the screws are now turned as you suggest and things are still running well enough.

Man, I really hope I haven't toasted that motor myself! Steve, how much did that set you back when you toasted yours? I will go ahead and keep the 25:1 for another tank then and that should do it.

 

[kerf]

The only way to tell about carb setting is plug color. I keep mine just slightly on the dark end of normal, that may effect mileage but better a little lower mileage than the other thing. Don't let the engine idle very much before you shut down for a read. Cart racers run theirs WOT and hit the kill, no idle at all. Be sure and let her cool before pulling that plug.

 

[DetonatorTuning]

appye,

a new topend for the 460 is $100. from DDM.

if you ever have to replace it, i highly recommend the .005" copper base gasket.

i've been using it with satisfying results.

steve

 

[appye]

What do you guys think though? Do you think the engine is burned or did adding the extra fuel to the high needle actually degrade mid-topend performance? I am hoping for the ladder, of course. I would think however that a new topend kit wouldn't take more than an hour or so to install. It doesn't even look like I would have to remove the engine from the bike.

 

[appye]

Steve, speaking of that are you still using the staton kit? How are you doing with your wawah issues? Did you install a tensioner?

 

[DetonatorTuning]

appye,

when you get these things lean enough to damage them at all it happens very fast and there are no questions if it's happened.

your engine is likely fine, we advised a change to preclude an episode not to retreive a lost cause.

my engine was runing VERY STRONG just before it put a hole in the piston. don't forget you can have plenty of oil mixture and still have the neddle to tight and fuel lean the cylinder to destruction.

i sold my Staton stuff nearly 2 months ago, to much weight, resistance and economy loss for me. before that i did install a guide to keep the chain from moving side to side. that and using KMC 710 cool chain worked for me.

IF i ever return to chain, and it is an available alternative with my jack shaft setup, i'll be using KMC 910 cahin.

steve

 

[appye]

Well, that was a bit of a scare. After all this lean mixture and possible engine siezing talk, I was about 3 miles from home and the thing suddenly wouldn't go over 10 miles an hour, kept dying, and generally ran like ****. It was a similar experience to when I burned the first engine. Limped home.

I pulled off the jug and saw some scorch marks around the ring on one side, a little glazing on one of the skirt walls, and a single score mark on the piston along with its twin on the cylinder wall. Not very deep. I also noticed some rattling from the x-can, still attached to the jug. Turns out two (cough craig cough cough :smiley2 of the baffles inside the x-can came completely off and were blocking both of the exhaust ports more or less completely.

I put it all back together minus the baffles and the engine ran strong. It is likely I took thousands of miles off of the engine's lifespan by running it lean like that and it probably would have burned up, but at least it is still running strong for now.

I am guessing (hoping) my previous loss of high midrange power was caused by the first one coming off and blocking some but not all of exhaust. Only testing it up Colima blvd will tell for sure if it is indeed running with a smaller set of testicles than it was a few days ago! I will definately be testing that tomorrow! I will duct tape my fingers crossed while I sleep tonight and until I hit the foot of that hill.

 

[DetonatorTuning]

ok,

now it's sure that the 1-1/4 turn on the "H" jet was borderline for the Xcan but,..................

not getting to see the plug from that time period you can't say for sure what of the stuff you found on tear down was done by the jetting at that time.

i had a light scratch on the cylinder and piston when i first got my engine new, you might have too.

the stuff near the ring and the skirts, was it graduating toward a blueing and hard surfaced, or was it tanish going toward dark and able to be wiped or lifted off with a finger nail ?

the diff. being the first is heat, the second would be something you'd expect to see if the exhaust was blocked and the engine was trying to run against the resistance AND on the resultant RICH mixture.

on the other hand, my Dom vibrated loose at the port once, that causes a lean run and very high idle, you know to shut it off instantly.

just some thoughts,
steve