Robin Subaru 35
- Thread starter Daniel_62
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Happy Valley
Active Member
You've got the horse, now you need the cart, huh? lol
For in frame you'll need a reduction unit like the Staton, Grube or a CVT. How you mount them in the frame will depend on the bike, what you want for gearing and how handy you at fabbing mounts. I know of no ready made kit for that motor in the frame that just bolts up.
For in frame you'll need a reduction unit like the Staton, Grube or a CVT. How you mount them in the frame will depend on the bike, what you want for gearing and how handy you at fabbing mounts. I know of no ready made kit for that motor in the frame that just bolts up.
The Robin Subaru motor is small, but it's not especially narrow. With a clutch housing and drive sprocket attached, it will foul your cranks or your legs when you try to pedal. The common workaround of installing a wider bottom bracket spindle will wreck your bike's chainline and have you pedaling like a duck.
1.6hp is not much! Don't take away your ability to contribute at the pedals. Put the motor in the front or the rear.
Chalo
1.6hp is not much! Don't take away your ability to contribute at the pedals. Put the motor in the front or the rear.
Chalo
HeadSmess
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thats what i said in an earlier post before my net connection failed and therefore i say it now posthumously. no kit 
the engine is about 9inches across. already too wide. and yep, add a clutch and stuff and all of a sudden spinning the pedals is a chore, not a breeze. you end up hating your mtb
even just the fuel tank on a ht kit is annoyingly wide for the knees...
nice in concept but not in practise.
the engine is about 9inches across. already too wide. and yep, add a clutch and stuff and all of a sudden spinning the pedals is a chore, not a breeze. you end up hating your mtb
even just the fuel tank on a ht kit is annoyingly wide for the knees...
nice in concept but not in practise.
occchopperfl
Member
Happy Valley
Active Member
Also just remembered, the 'Scooterguy' mount works in frame, high and forward, then to a crank freewheel. Not sure if he's still making them, 5-7 would know???
TREEWK
Member
DANIEL
DID A DIY SHIFTER BUILD AND IT IS GREAT AND LOW COST FOR WHAT YOU GET.
YOUR 35CC WIL BE FINE IF YOU GEAR ACCORDINGLY. IT WOULD BE A VERY EASY ENGINE CHANGE. THERE ARE SEVERAL DIFFERENT ENGINES WITH THE 76/78MM CLUTCH. JUST 4 BOLTS TO UNSCREW AND SCREW INTO THE NEXT ENGINE.
WAS PLANNING ON A RE-DO OF THE MOTOR PLATE FOR APPERANCE SAKE, BUT NEVER GOT TO IT. THE 50CC TITAN FROM DAX IS AMAZING THRU THE GEARS AND I WEIGH OVER 275. IF GEARED RIGHT IT BECOMES A DIRT BIKE. LOL FUN FUN
MAY NEED TO RESIZE MY PICS TO POST THEM. PM ME ANY TIME IF YOU LIKE.
IF YOUR ENGINE HAS A FUEL TANK ON THE BOTTOM, THAT IS NICE.
THE 3 MOUNTS THAT HOLD THE ENGINE ARE FROM McMASTER CARR $3. EA.
THE PIECE OF ALUM WAS FROM THE SCRAP BIN AT THE LOCAL SHEET METAL SHOP. (GET THE HARDENED ALUM IF POSS, THE HOLE SAW CUTS SO MUCH SMOOTHER COMPARED TO THE SOFT ALUM). $10 SHEARED TO MY SPECS.
YOU WILL NEED THE THREADED CRANK ARMS FROM SBP. THE GEAR BOX IS THE 5:1 RATIO REVERSE ROTATATION. 8MM CHAIN AND SPROCKETS 11 & 72 TOOTH. AND MAYBE A 24 TOOTH 1/2" PITCH CHAIN RING FROM SBP. A FEW MORE MISC PARTS AND YOUR GOOD TO GO!
A FRAME WITH ROUND TUBES IS MUCH EASIER. DUAL SUS IS SO SMOOTH TO RIDE.
DID A DIY SHIFTER BUILD AND IT IS GREAT AND LOW COST FOR WHAT YOU GET.
YOUR 35CC WIL BE FINE IF YOU GEAR ACCORDINGLY. IT WOULD BE A VERY EASY ENGINE CHANGE. THERE ARE SEVERAL DIFFERENT ENGINES WITH THE 76/78MM CLUTCH. JUST 4 BOLTS TO UNSCREW AND SCREW INTO THE NEXT ENGINE.
WAS PLANNING ON A RE-DO OF THE MOTOR PLATE FOR APPERANCE SAKE, BUT NEVER GOT TO IT. THE 50CC TITAN FROM DAX IS AMAZING THRU THE GEARS AND I WEIGH OVER 275. IF GEARED RIGHT IT BECOMES A DIRT BIKE. LOL FUN FUN
MAY NEED TO RESIZE MY PICS TO POST THEM. PM ME ANY TIME IF YOU LIKE.
IF YOUR ENGINE HAS A FUEL TANK ON THE BOTTOM, THAT IS NICE.
THE 3 MOUNTS THAT HOLD THE ENGINE ARE FROM McMASTER CARR $3. EA.
THE PIECE OF ALUM WAS FROM THE SCRAP BIN AT THE LOCAL SHEET METAL SHOP. (GET THE HARDENED ALUM IF POSS, THE HOLE SAW CUTS SO MUCH SMOOTHER COMPARED TO THE SOFT ALUM). $10 SHEARED TO MY SPECS.
YOU WILL NEED THE THREADED CRANK ARMS FROM SBP. THE GEAR BOX IS THE 5:1 RATIO REVERSE ROTATATION. 8MM CHAIN AND SPROCKETS 11 & 72 TOOTH. AND MAYBE A 24 TOOTH 1/2" PITCH CHAIN RING FROM SBP. A FEW MORE MISC PARTS AND YOUR GOOD TO GO!
A FRAME WITH ROUND TUBES IS MUCH EASIER. DUAL SUS IS SO SMOOTH TO RIDE.
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2old2learn
Member
TREEWK,
Why have it there when you could have it behind you? What are the advantages and the disadvantages? Was it because of the dual suspension?
Wayne
Why have it there when you could have it behind you? What are the advantages and the disadvantages? Was it because of the dual suspension?
Wayne
TREEWK
Member
2old
Much easier for the shift kit with the engine up front. I have a cvt rear rack mount with the same engine that works well, but hard for me to get my leg over the engine at my age.
My other cvt rear rack build has the low profile cage engine with the big bore kit is not a problem for me.
This shifter set up works nice and is super fun to ride and shift. I really like the thumb throttle with the dual brake lever.
My next build may be a 99cc hf engine with a pedal start and shift kit using a primary belt drive with a spring loaded tensioner-clutch. This will be in my stretch cruiser.
Want the pedal start so the engine can be stripped of the tin and rewind starter etc. Will need a second manual belt tightner on top of the belt for pedal starting.
My first sketch shows a left side rear chain drive, or it could be a belt drive. Then after looking at my sketch, it could be a shifter bike by using the $15. Staton 3 groove free wheel adapter with the $5. 3 prong sprocket added to the right side jack shaft free wheel bearing.
This was my first sketch, but it gets the idea across, I hope!! lol.
Ron
Much easier for the shift kit with the engine up front. I have a cvt rear rack mount with the same engine that works well, but hard for me to get my leg over the engine at my age.
My other cvt rear rack build has the low profile cage engine with the big bore kit is not a problem for me.
This shifter set up works nice and is super fun to ride and shift. I really like the thumb throttle with the dual brake lever.
My next build may be a 99cc hf engine with a pedal start and shift kit using a primary belt drive with a spring loaded tensioner-clutch. This will be in my stretch cruiser.
Want the pedal start so the engine can be stripped of the tin and rewind starter etc. Will need a second manual belt tightner on top of the belt for pedal starting.
My first sketch shows a left side rear chain drive, or it could be a belt drive. Then after looking at my sketch, it could be a shifter bike by using the $15. Staton 3 groove free wheel adapter with the $5. 3 prong sprocket added to the right side jack shaft free wheel bearing.
This was my first sketch, but it gets the idea across, I hope!! lol.
Ron
