Rock Solid Engines Billet Inlet Tube

[AussieSteve]

Still, Dan, as long as your engine isn't tilted as much as mine, you'll have no trouble with the billet inlet. If you lived nearby, I'd give you mine to try. I'll never use it. I'll probably end up giving it to someone from MBc who needs it here in Oz.

I didn't mean to be rude regarding searching.
I just had a look and Ron's thread on the clutch roller is on page 3 of 'Buy/Sell/Trade'.

Like you, I'm very limited with equipment. My build was done with no more than a hand drill, files and spanners. I was lucky that it went together so well, but it took 4 months and cost a total, now, of about $1600AU, ($1450US).
Worth every cent, too. Effectively, it's a 66cc, 6-speed moped that needs no rego.
An off-the-shelf, brand-new moped would have cost 2-4 times that.

 

[danlandberg]

Sorry I did not mean to sound ignorant, maybe just to tired tonight to think of ordering any Moore parts at this time (been thinking to much planning on my next move). Have a good one Steve (sorry)

 

[AussieSteve]

No need to be sorry for anything - you've done nothing wrong and you don't sound ignorant to me.
Just Pm'd you re the clutch roller. Ron does a good job on those - haven't heard a complaint yet.
I know how you feel about ordering more parts - been there done that and it hurts, especially when a lot end up in that spares bin.
Those BB kits should be a bit better than that, they need to supply suitable frames.

 

[danlandberg]

That is the truth! I E-Mailed them about the problem I find in the D.I.Y. kits, and they mailed me back with the "need to have some mechanical knowledge" I guess I don't know what I'm doing after 28 years of mechanical experience, and 2 great builds. The only reason I ordered a kit like this, is because of my situation (room to work)

 

[AussieSteve]

Only 28 years, that's not enough for these things!
Kidding - in reality, if they're selling an engine plus a bicycle to fit it to, it should fit.

I'm a little luckier, I only rent a 2-bedroom unit but it has a brick, lock-up garage to work in.

 

[Fabian]

Same here Steve - my billet Intake Tube does not allow the NT carburettor to clear the clutch cable post holder.
Also the Carburettor sits on a fairly uneven angle of maybe 30 degrees.
Not sure how it would affect the float in the float bowl.

I used an alternative method of getting the NT carburettor to seal on the standard intake tube by placing an o-ring inside the carburettor and it seals up to the mating face on the intake tube.

The billet intake tube is a lovely piece of work but it needs to be made as a curved design to clear the clutch post and have the carburettor sitting on a level plane.

Fabian

 

[AussieSteve]

G'day Fabian.
The clutch post isn't hard to change and the studs aren't hard to pull out for the allen head screws, but on my bike, the angle was all wrong.
Many modern frames have a near-vertical seat tube. I chose to mount solidly there and adjust the front mount to suit. As a result, my engine tilts forward heaps, far too much for a straight inlet tube. With a shift kit, the engine must be aligned with the seat tube for a reliable setup.

The 'O' ring method that you're using, although better than stock, is still not 100% reliable.
You need to really push on the carb as you tighten the clamp to get a decent seal.

If you have the time, it's worth filing a groove for an 'O' ring in an after-market alloy inlet.
I'm sure you've seen my thread on the subject, NT carby/inlet leaks - a reliable solution

I have 50 suitable 'O' rings here. (Wasn't worth buying less, but I'll never use them all.) All you need is the inlet and a narrow file. (I used a thin 'warding *******'.) Well worth the effort. No leaks here.
If you want a few 'O' rings to suit, PM me and we'll work something out for posting them. Don't want payment - they're only 30c each, just an address to post to.
(They're identical to the one on RSE's billet inlet. I bought them from 'Fitch Rubber' in Adelaide, one of Tony's neighbours. You can guess where he gets his.)

Can't say b a s t a r d here, even if it's the correct term for a file.

 

[Fabian]

I agree with you Steve (quote) The 'O' ring method that you're using, although better than stock, is still not 100% reliable.
You need to really push on the carb as you tighten the clamp to get a decent seal.

Yes, i do have to push the carburettor firmly up against the intake tube and then tighten up the clamping screw.
Surprisingly, it's proven to seal reliably, so i haven't bothered to change methods.

Fabian

 

[danlandberg]

That is the same method I used & you do have to push hard enough to make it seal. I had no failure there, just manifold gasket(s) went through many till I made my own.

 

[danlandberg]

Fabian: The mod is to cut a 1/4'' off the cable holder, But on mine the post is to tall also. I don't see a practical way to lower the post with out loosing #of threads and have the post hit the drive sprocket shaft.(at least on the Flying Horse engine). If you end up using the billet intake & get it to work/fit Please post pic(s) That is why I'm thinking of the roller set-up.