GW's Motorized
Well-Known Member
Build her a tricycle then 
Running super rich during break-in
- Thread starter berrytoucher
- Start date
At only 1000 ft above sea level, that C clip should not be at the leanest setting...I am at 4500 ft above sea level where the air is somewhat thinner...On all my previous regular China Girl motors, I was at the leanest setting due to altitude here in the high deserts of New Mexico...My Phantom 85 needs to run richer so I am at the middle groove right now...The Phantom is a whole different animal...lol.
You really should only be at the middle groove on the C clip at your altitude/elevation, keeping in mind that these things do not run correctly until two or three tank fulls of breakin time.
Also you should never run 40:1 ratio...you need to be running usually 25:1 during the breakin period and no less oil than 32:1 thereafter on you basic China Girl motors...Also be sure that when you put the needle slide barrel back into the carburetor, that you place that slit on the barrel into that little nub inside the carby...It is on the right hand side directly opposite of the idle adjustment screw...The throttle will stick if this is not in there properly.
There are also two adjustments for the throttle cable that need to be adjusted to get any slack out of the cable once installed...One is on the throttle gooseneck and the second is on the other end of the cable that goes into the carb...tighten them to the point where there is just the tiniest amount of freeplay in the throttle.
You will notice that motor performance will get better once the breakin period is over with...These things do NOT run perfectly before that happens.
GW's Motorized
Well-Known Member
I am at 2000 ft and I only had to move from the center notch when I switched to a higher flow air filter
That sounds about right for 2000 ft.
GW's Motorized
Well-Known Member
I think I had to go one notch lean but I honestly don't remember
And here I thought that I was the "Old" guy here with CRS...lol.
GW's Motorized
Well-Known Member
No, you are the "old" guy with CRS, I'm the "young" guy with CRS
Nate82
Active Member
Hey man this question may have already been answered in these suggestions may have already been given to you. But I would move that clip right back down to where you had it let it run rich for a bit. Of course the cheap Chinese plug fouled and failed very quick. You will find that the ngks will not do that as quickly even if they do foul they are definitely the way to go when it comes to spark plugs on these.Hey friends! First post here, sorry if I’m breaking some rules or something.
I’m left scratching my head a little. I’m probably 20 miles into the breaking period, I’ve already soiled a spark plug and had to replace (fine by me putting in an NGK instead of whatever crap they sent me), but I could tell from the state of the old one that I was running very rich. Before I got the bike cranked again with the new spark plug, I changed the clip in my NT carburetor to run as lean as it will allow by that adjustment method. Since I’m still in the break-in period, I’m hesitant to start messing around with the jetting. Do you guys have recommendations on how to lean out the mix without changing the jetting?
In some other threads I’ve seen recommendations as to air filters. Would that perhaps fix my problem? If so could someone drop a link to a recommended product?
Thanks guys! This forum has been a huge help getting me up and running.
P.S. I have absolutely no mechanical knowledge beyond what I’ve learned on this project. If you wanna check out a bit of my journey I made a YT video about it
The Video
(I said something in the video that might seem like a shot at the forum, it totally wasn’t, I read that in a product review. I love you guys!)
What ratio of oil to fuel are you running? Don't bother running that 16:1 as that is just a Simply Stupid suggestion by the manufacturers in China of these motors. I suppose they suggest you to run that ridiculous ratio because there's no way you could under oil it like that.
Run 24:1 on your break in. After breaking in switch to 32:1. A lot of guys start with 40:1 and just stay with that. I do the 32:1 when I'm done breaking in. For the simple fact that it gives me a little wiggle room to mess up without risking ruining the motor. I rather more oil than too little. The same goes for the air fuel ratio. you're better off a little rich and a little teeny bit of four stroking then leaning her the Freak Out. Being on the last Notch, I don't know what elevation you're at, but that's pretty lean for 1/3 to 3/4 throttle which is what the needle controls. I'm 500 to 1000 ft above sea level here and I did have to set my c-clip to the second notch from the top, (so the second leanest).
However I didn't even try doing this until I ran at least one tank through her of it running rich and four stroking like crazy. I believe that did nothing but help the motor break in before I leaned it out a bit.
But you really have to understand your elevation, you have to understand how to read plugs by looking at the burn and that's not the ring around the plug you want to look right at the electroid. Where you set the gap. Speaking of Gap make sure your spark plug is set no higher than 0.28 of an inch. Those Factory Chinese ones come set sometimes at like 0.040 of an inch which is ridiculously too large of a gap. I'm running mine at 0.028 of an inch roughly.
And don't feel bad man myself I'm a certified small engine mechanic and even I need it the help from these wonderful people on this forum to figure out that these are a slightly different animal. I think everything I have told you has already been told you I have to go through the whole thread.
And yeah if you are noticing fuel around your Carby. You may want to check to make sure your float doesn't have fuel in it weighing it down, which you can just shine a flashlight at it and see. And make sure that yes that needle is seating correctly into the jet. Sometimes you have to polish the needle there is instructions on YouTube in various videos that it will explain how to do that. But it's my understanding you essentially Chuck that PIN into a drill or better yet a Dremel spin it slowly with some really fine grit sandpaper to polish it up. The other thing is is you need to measure the float arms to make sure that they're not letting the float go too far and flooding your motor. So measure them they should be 21 mm I believe from the base of the carburetor. Again you can find YouTube videos that explain this check out my first thread I believe there is a link all about the carburetor in that thread. Now do you have the NT or the bofang carby? As myself I wasn't aware there was a difference but there is mine is not the NT but rather the better bofang which seems to be the one that comes with the kits nowadays
So I apologize to the others if the things I have said have already been run over with him. But these are all things that I have learned in the short period of time of working with you guys. And yes I do want to contribute and help other people now.
So now with all that being said I'm going to read over this whole thread see what's been said and what hasn't been said and if there's anything I can contribute that may help I will.
Until then maybe read over my thread. "Fairly new 80cc Chinese motor having starting issues and not running at full potential" I started that thread before that motor blew, then I got another one. This one is almost perfect thanks to all the help on here. So there may be some useful information in that thread for you. I'll get the link for you, then edit it into this reply.
Here is a link to my thread that very well could have a lot of useful information in it for you these guys certainly help me a lot. And these are all things that you should know and probably be doing. So I would read over that whole thread you can learn a lot from that one and it'll help you I know it will. https://motoredbikes.com/threads/fa...ential-with-occasional-starting-issues.63487/
I apologize to anybody that finds any of the grammar errors and spelling issues in this particular post hard to read. I will be taking my time to fix that. But it shouldn't be too hard to understand as there's only a couple of run-on sentences that's all.
Nate82
Active Member
I fully agree with you. He changed the air fuel setting on his carburetor a little too soon. I've made that mistake on my last motor, not that it did anything bad to it, But if adjusting it up or down make zero difference then there's something else wrong regardless. I now know personally not even bother trying to adjust that until at least a tank or two has been run through it of 24:1 ratio. Thank you guys for teaching me that.
I think what he should be doing is moving that c-clip right back to where it was. Continue to drive it nice and easy, with it 4-stroking until it's fully broken in and running the best I can at the factory settings. Any most definitely should be doing all the checks as he goes.
Then after that start adjusting the fuel ratio.
I too will have to take that throttle tip because the plastic spot where the throttle attaches to that cheap throttle handle, yeah it snapped on mine, I have a new one but I don't want to use it yet. So I'm going to see how much play is in my throttle and make adjustments from there regardless of whether that part's broken or not. The adjustments won't really need to be necessary but it should help.
cloakedvillain
Well-Known Member
Manufacturer recommends 16 to one in break in and 20 to one after. Maybe they got thinner oil in china but 20 to 1 during breakin and 25 to 1 after seem more realistic.
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