Discussion in 'Photos & Bicycle Builds' started by schwinnbiggitycustom, Aug 12, 2014.
Hey I need some advice on how to complete my bike build any help would be really appreciated!!!!!
I'm sorry, why are we calling this a custom build? Factory assembled bike and china girl kit, I see nothing custom about it.
Sorry did I ask for someone who thinks that there **** don't stink? N FYI!!!!!!!!!! it's custom if no one else has it...... or has seen it........ buddy u r a goof do u think I give a **** about what you think ? Unless your helping me I don't see a need for you to reply soooo go **** yourself then eh!!
Yeah ok buddy lol didn't ask if you cared what I thought, didn't ask if you wanted my opinion or not, and for YOUR information, you didn't ask for help with anything specific, so how are we supposed to know WHAT you need help with? Just because no one else has one does not make it custom. When you build a bike from the bare frame up with a non-kit engine and build your own wheels, then it's custom.
There are a couple of issues that I see so far.
1. Turn the head around to give the plug more clearance, and from you'll be able to make the engine more level. Your carb will thank you.
2. Chain alignment. With the engine mounted in the center of the frame you're not going to be lined up with the rear sprocket & the chain will be chewing the rear tire. You could get a shift kit (heavy duty) to solve this problem, or you could offset the engine to the left in order to align the sprocket.
3. BRAKES. This should be #1 on the list. Coaster brakes are not adequate for a monster like that. A front disc brake is what you need, and rear caliper brakes are a very good idea as well. VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!
4. Fitting the carb. If you go with a shift kit you'll need an offset intake manifold. If you offset the engine you may have enough room to use a stock or straight-shot manifold.
I thought the concept of the word "custom" meant building a product or device that required unique fabrication skills and was not mass produced on an assembly line.
If the bike is a factory assembled product, i also see nothing "custom" about it, though the fat bike tyres look great.
Also, this is a public forum, so it's open for everyone to express their opinion. It is a cool bike to motorize, and I hope you figure everything out. I just don't think of it as custom, sorry.
"mongoose beast" build
im also in the process of building a "custom" bike, here are some additional issues to look for;
the chain that comes in the kit is not long enough.
if you purchase the offset plate, the inside motor mounting bolts line up on the center of the down tube,
as well as the backbone.
unless you have a frame jig, welding experiance(boiler-maker) measuring and cutting tools,
basicly- unless u build a "custom" frame this project, will end up like many others...collecting dust, and you cant even sell it on ebay.
The main issue i see here is the chain clearence from the tire and frame. That chinese happy kit chain will eat metal frames like a saw and eat fat tires well too. With this being said i would suggest looking into modifications and shifter kits. Extending the chain is easy if u have an extra chain like me sitting around. You can join the links and hammer them permanently like i did so u dont have to use a master link on your chain ever again or worrry about it coming apart. Also good idea to get a better tensioner for the chain for your setup or weld it to the frame permanently. Good Luck on your project...looking good
I can see the carby not fitting there is a bent manifold available so the carby clears the seat pole. can't see the chain. but you could make a jack shaft with two drive sprockets on the same side allowing you to move the chain out and down brining it all into line.
Just help the guy and maybe we can create a new thread about what we consider "custom". Should be a good thread.
He will need to either offset mount the engine or add a jackshaft for the motor chain to clear that back wheel.
Some engine vendors sell "Stingray Engine Mounts", designed for chopper bicycles, which will offset mount the engine to the left for tire clearance.
Such an engine mount probably will not fit your chubby bike without some mods, but it is a start.
That's a terrible bike to motorize.
Heck I wouldn't trust that bike stock going downhill with just a coaster brake!
I just finished these two Motorized Fat Tire Shifters and it's all about brakes to stop these beasts.
I suggest you return that virtually useless Schwinn and spring for a 7-speed Sun Crusher if you want a gas Fat Tire.
The dual V's work unusually well and since the best way to motorize a Fat Tire is to tie into the pedal drive, you might as well get a bike with gears.
It's a big strong cavity I'll bet even a 49cc 4-stroke shifter would fit in.
The key again is a jackshaft (shift kit) to move your engines output to the other side and then replacing the pedal system with a Freewheel mounted pedal system.
Your pedals are like a socket wrench handle...
You can turn the socket with the wrench but you can also turn the socket with your fingers and the wrench just ratchets.
The engine output sprocket is your fingers in that example.
Not what you wanted to hear I'm sure but I know of what I speak, that Schwinn will only bring you misery if you try to put that engine in it.
This company uses a shift kit also to motorize the fat tire bikes.
Yep, that's the 7-speed Mongoose Dolomite with dual disc brakes.
I went electric on mine but it's tied to the pedal sprockets.
It looks like a 2-stroke will fit in there if you reverse the head and use a Z intake.
The point is both bikes have good brakes and the Dolomite is just not that expensive, like $250.
Note on the Dolomite, the stock seat is a tiny uncomfortable POS that needs replacing and the Gel seat I used on my mine works well.
I agree with your response Schwinn, if anyone doesn't want to be friendly and helpful, why even post? Coming on strong with an 'uppity' attitude only shows one's donkey...S
I really like the Fat Bike concept, allowing you to run low tyre pressures for a very comfortable ride.
In my opinion, comfort is the most important aspect of the bicycling experience, because if you have to endure a horribly uncomfortable ride, you will never want to do long distance touring.
Looks like Bigity gave up on this build or the forum as it's been a couple of months and he hasn't been back.
The fat tires rock in sand, snow and mud, uoi run them at 8psi, but for road riding 20-25psi is comfortable even over speed bumps but not as much drag.
KC, Do you sell those cool cylinder gas tanks? I too would love to mount one on a rear tire rack. Thanks, Steve
Naw, I am not a vendor, I am a custom builder.
Is your bike frame a Schwinn or a Mongoose? I've checked around, and unless you weld your own engine offsets to the frame, nobody carries an offset to clear those tires from the engine sprocked side, without mods. I say, just put a jackshaft on it, and run a right side chain. Once you had that ironed out, you could add a seven speed rear setup...Steve
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