Snapping on the Spoke Ring

[Roy Carpenter]

I'm sure you'll love that rim. Sounds solid. I'm gonna run out to Home Depot, and find some of those split bolts that will straddle these 1/10" diameter spokes I'm runnin'. I'll put the back wheel on a truing stand...rig a sensor so I can tell just how out of round, and off centered the drive ring really is. Once I get all the "whopper jawedness" out of the ring, and I'm satisfied with it, then I'll clamp the spokes on the inside, and outside of the ring...every other "driven" spoke should do....I hope. The ring should definitely stay put then.

 

[Eco Speeder]

Sunday

In my short time thus far "talking"with other motor bike people I 've noticed some commonalities.

One that comes to mind is that motor bike people are a bit odd ball and have this pervasive fixation on reinventing the wheel per say

I'm very thankful for this site and the participants.



Michael

 

[Roy Carpenter]

I suppose you could definitely say that the majority of us aren't quite the "typical" members of the "Common Herd" so to speak, (speaking for myself anyways)...lol.

 

[appye]

cut to fit inner dimensions of rim allowing for concavity . cut a small wedge out so it fits the angle of the spokes from hub to rim .
cut some 1 inch strips to match the outside curve of the piece you just made. . the strips go on one side of the spokes and bolt through to the plate which goes on other side of spokes .
bolt your sprocket to this plate .

I am having trouble comprehending what Haggard is talking about here ... I get the general idea of using a metal plate of some sort and fastening it to the wheel to increase strength, but I don't quite understand what is meant in the instructions. Perhaps someone can explain it to me a bit more in depth? I don't quite understand how I would cut this wedge and whatnot. Please explain? thanks.

 

[Alaskavan]

The idea is to have the power from the sprocket transferred to all the spokes evenly. If you cut a wedge out of a round piece of metal, and then pull the metal together to close the gap made when the wedge was removed, you will make a cone. The idea is to make a cone that conforms to the angles of the left side of the wheel, so the metal will rest against the spokes all along their length.
Hope this helps.

 

[appye]

I think I understand now. So the plate would only be on the drive side of the wheel? One thing I dont' understand though ... how would this work with a GEBE setup where the drive ring fastens directly to the spokes?

 

[augidog]

overthinking can sometimes get in the way

this isn't an opinion of the methods discussed here, only some FYI...

i think i should jump in and say that my original golden-eagle setup was installed on a cheapo 105G steel shimano coaster wheel, by a novice...me...i did it by eye and it never was as closely centered as it could have been...the tensioner made up for my mistakes...

folks, i ran that ring/wheel for almost 2000 miles without a single mishap, and without any extra reinforcing of any kind...for real. still nothing wrong with that wheel, spokes, or drivering, all being used in other assemblies now. i'm using the original belt from then on my racer, 2500+ miles on that.

like any mechanical project, all you have to do is take yer time and use some common sense as a minimum...to really get down to it, use some gauges or other centering-help like the stuff discussed here...

my new wheel has a factory-epoxied ring. i don't expect to ever have to worry about that part of the setup, it runs so smoothly and true as can be.

 

[appye]

Augidog, I am not all that concerned with properly centering my ring anymore. That is to say, I have it properly centered and do not have any problems with it.

Actually, I was participating in another thread started by DetonatorTuning at http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=11738 ... I am considering getting a stronger engine for my GEBE setup and am trying to apply as much as I can to making the wheel as durable as possible. It is already running a very beefy rim with 12g stainless spokes, but I am not sure if it will stand well against an engine like the one he has. The ones from GEBE are great, but I need something with a little more power so I can feel safe when I actually have to merge in with traffic for a few blocks here and there. Check out my questions in that thread ... Basically, I am wondering what kind s of engines I can purchase that will work with an already existing GEBE setup...

 

[Alaskavan]

Appye, that disc setup won't work (without major modification) with a Gebe setup. If you need a stronger wheel than Gebe makes, I'd recomend that you contact The Wheelmaster. He can make you up a wheel with some serious 10g or even 9g spokes. You would have to modify the ring to fit the larger spokes, but it should be doable.

 

[Eco Speeder]

GEBE Spoke Ring Specs??

Appye, that disc setup won't work (without major modification) with a Gebe setup. If you need a stronger wheel than Gebe makes, I'd recomend that you contact The Wheelmaster. He can make you up a wheel with some serious 10g or even 9g spokes. You would have to modify the ring to fit the larger spokes, but it should be doable.

What is the thickest spoke gauge that the GEBE spoke ring will fit onto as is?

Per previous posts I've been researching the the "split bolt" concept. Great idea but cost / weight prohibitive.

Michael

P.S. When GEBE settles down from their windfall / profit ecstasy we perhaps can help them move forward on design issues.