StrangeTechnician9
New Member
What I've done so far and a possible solution?
Short list of thing's I've done to fix this strange problem.
Spark plug. (many times to see what it tells me. Usually dark and wet meaning running rich right? When I start it and immediately turn off the gas, looks all dry and a lil brownish.
Magneto. i get 351 ohms, it jumps around a little but thats pretty much the reading from what I remember. I'll check it again.
CDI. I hear these fail for no reason so I put the back up on
Exhaust. I blew through it and felt little resistance, but cleaned it anyway. It was very slightly easier to blow through it.
Crankcase seal was leaking a bit. So I took apart the engine, split the case and replaced every seal I could find, minus the little doughnut looking seals on the inside. Also used gasket maker and tightened everything before it dried. (My seals are holding up nicely
)
Yes I put everything back together right. (eventually)
Adjusted the float over and over again on the carburetor. the less fuel in the bowl the better it ran. Literally to the point where I'd start running out of fuel in the bowl at about 35 seconds of WOT and then I'd get power. Of course it'd cut off unless I let go of the throttle and kept the momentum turning the engine while the carb caught up.
Changed carb jets
Bought a new carb (new SHA clone type). Adjusted idle and air/fuel mixture a bunch.
I didn't change the piston rings yet...
If they are damaged, when the gas mixture ignites, the pressure could go around the piston, and force more fuel toward and out the back of the carb than normal. This would also reduce power by a lot.
But would it still start running well when the gas gets turned off? It seems to run almost, if not perfectly when I shut the gas off.
I'll check to be sure in a few days. I've just been working on it on a stand.
Short list of thing's I've done to fix this strange problem.
Spark plug. (many times to see what it tells me. Usually dark and wet meaning running rich right? When I start it and immediately turn off the gas, looks all dry and a lil brownish.
Magneto. i get 351 ohms, it jumps around a little but thats pretty much the reading from what I remember. I'll check it again.
CDI. I hear these fail for no reason so I put the back up on
Exhaust. I blew through it and felt little resistance, but cleaned it anyway. It was very slightly easier to blow through it.
Crankcase seal was leaking a bit. So I took apart the engine, split the case and replaced every seal I could find, minus the little doughnut looking seals on the inside. Also used gasket maker and tightened everything before it dried. (My seals are holding up nicely
)Yes I put everything back together right. (eventually)
Adjusted the float over and over again on the carburetor. the less fuel in the bowl the better it ran. Literally to the point where I'd start running out of fuel in the bowl at about 35 seconds of WOT and then I'd get power. Of course it'd cut off unless I let go of the throttle and kept the momentum turning the engine while the carb caught up.
Changed carb jets
Bought a new carb (new SHA clone type). Adjusted idle and air/fuel mixture a bunch.
I didn't change the piston rings yet...
If they are damaged, when the gas mixture ignites, the pressure could go around the piston, and force more fuel toward and out the back of the carb than normal. This would also reduce power by a lot.
But would it still start running well when the gas gets turned off? It seems to run almost, if not perfectly when I shut the gas off.
I'll check to be sure in a few days. I've just been working on it on a stand.
