Which setup floats your boat most?

[gone_fishin]

drag yer own poll off-topic with talk about 4-stroke position, instead of furthering discussion of the matter in that existing topic which someone was helpful enuff to provide you...it seems you're not really interested in pitching in 'round here but only focused on what you want, here & now...maybe that will change? i sure hope so.

that said, let me say this too: you can carp all over yer own topic if you want, that's fine by me...but in the long run all you'll wind up with is a carpy topic that wanders all over and is no help to the next new builder.

 

[grndslm]

drag yer own poll off-topic with talk about 4-stroke position, instead of furthering discussion of the matter in that existing topic which someone was helpful enuff to provide you

How could that question not be relevant to this discussion? I wasn't asking about Robin Subaru engines in particular (seems like a general 2-stroke -VS- 4-stroke question to me), so if you would like to bump the other topic with info you've gained from this thread, go ahead.

...it seems you're not really interested in pitching in 'round here but only focused on what you want, here & now...maybe that will change? i sure hope so.

I can't pitch in what I know nothing about. I am going to write a summary at the end of this thread that encompasses the best points that other members have mentioned... I dunno how you could expect me to contribute when I just showed up to these parts.

that said, let me say this too: you can carp all over yer own topic if you want, that's fine by me...but in the long run all you'll wind up with is a carpy topic that wanders all over and is no help to the next new builder.

It'd be half as crappy of a thread and a lot more helpful to new builders if people started exchanging useful information instead of rules and regulations for what they believe belongs where...

 

[gone_fishin]

you make too much out of what i do here & you seem to not get it...the structure is necessary, the methodology is necessary...there was no help anywhere before we got MBc going right, and that was only just recently...

what i meant about "pitching in" now is: please, go to that other shallow topic about engine-position...revive it with your thoughts at the moment plus any fresh question you may have, make it more than it was before you found it. when you do that, it brings it back up to the front page for people to see, then if there's new info, we'll be sure to get it.

i truly don't care about what you do in yer own topic...but quit bogarting the action & info, as i sed before, some of what you're asking of folks they've already covered by posting very detailed reports on their experiences, they did that for you, the new arrival...read them and comment or question directly to the OP...why not "pitch in" by getting involved where it can be productive now too? do nothing but read those posts for 2 days, then give a report here on yer conclusions. show us MBc links that were helpful and influential. also, your questions will make more sense once you have some parameters, which are already on the board and waitng for you to bump them...we're all in this together & the folks who are here have realized it, they make MBc great, not me...i'm only here to make sure their contributions stay organized & relevant.

with the backup of the Volunteer Moddies, i do a fine job, too...so deal with it.

personally, i've written some really good stuff (imo) about some of your questions...if you happen to have any more questions or need some more details, feel free to bump any of my topics and i'll do my best, one MBc-Member to Another

 

[grndslm]

Well, augi... I have been too busy to argue lately. So, I'm gonna take the word of people who sound like they know what they're talking about and believe that 4-strokers can't be tipped.

I have finally come to my decision that the best setup in my eyes is a 4-stroke, rack-mounted, chain-driven on a 3 or 7-speed internal geared hub with an extra freewheel for the pedal's chain.

The only way I would veer from the 4-stroke, rack, & chain setup is if I needed something that could tilt, like on a folding bike or 20" BMX. Then I'd get a 2-stroker for the issue previously mentioned.

 

[gone_fishin]

I have finally come to my decision that the best setup in my eyes is a 4-stroke, rack-mounted, chain-driven on a 3 or 7-speed internal geared hub with an extra freewheel for the pedal's chain.

that's what i'm talkin' about...and it was an informed decision, which is the best kind

believe it or don't, but i'm looking forward to watchin' you narrow it down & start gathering parts...then the fun begins all over again

 

[duivendyk]

I absolutely need power-assist for hill climbing and also want to keep my bike as "normal" as possible,which boils down to a rack based system with some type of variable transmission.The NuVinci CVT with a Staton gearbox mated to a Mitsubishi TLE 43 seems the way to go, a Honda GXH 50 would have been preferable but not cost effective,this setup is pretty expensive anyway,JJ

 

[grndslm]

The NuVinci CVT with a Staton gearbox mated to a Mitsubishi TLE 43 seems the way to go, a Honda GXH 50 would have been preferable but not cost effective,this setup is pretty expensive anyway,JJ

That's quite an amazing dream... hope you can show us the final dream!!

 

[duivendyk]

Some "dreams" are more possible than others,some are pipe dreams,nice to think about but impractical.I don't think it is possible to incorporate a separate freewheel for the chaindrive with any internal-gear hub, such as for instance the Shimano 7or 8 speed Nexus hub,there simply is not enough axial room available to do that and stay within 135 mm.These hubs have a built-in freewheel clutch, that takes care of one drive input (either the motor drive or the drive from the front chainwheel).You don't want to connect both inputs rigidly connected either,so a second freewheel sprocket is needed,but I very much doubt that there is enough room to incorporate one.It would require some kind of piggyback design,if it were possible to do so, I think someone would have come up with one by now.It's a shame because these hubs have a lot going for them otherwise.On the Sheldon Brown website (www.sheldonbrown.com) all sorts of info on internal-gear hubs can be found.Therefore the Nuvinci hub approach from Staton seems the most feasible one, although I have reservations about it's torque handling capability.(see my post "power torque and rpm").Engine choice is a peripheral issue really.
There is nothing particularly "amazing" about my approach,the
Staton gearbox is on the clunky side,but it allows you to mount the engine&clutch, and get the needed reduction in rpm, lubrication, or rather the potential lack of it is not it's strongest point.It's supposed to be durable,we'll see how it works out,JJ

 

[grndslm]

Well.. I've seen two other guys do this double freewheel thing. And I'm convinced that's the only way I could build a motored bike.

This guy did it: http://motoredbikes.com/showpost.php?p=100737&postcount=7

And this guy did it too, first post on this page: http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=6899&page=9

It could happen, but I confess.. I haven't read much about this Staton gearbox yet... but I'm all ears.

 

[kerf]

duivendyk,

Have you looked at the Staton setup for the Nuvinci, a piggyback freewheel is exactly what he did. He has added an additional freewheel to the sprocket to isolate the peddles from the engine drive and another on the gearbox output to isolate the engine drive from the peddles. Whats the problem with lubrication on the Staton box, it's full of grease. I assume you have a Staton unit and are speaking from first hand experience.