Wildcat80 racing engine

[sherron82]

I finally got the wc80 engine only with reed valve, windowed piston and 16mm carb on the bike. Also got a cdh67 exhaust. Im really liking it. Runs better than I thought. This is the first ride and I know the idle is too high, possibly a leak somehere. Other than that it's great.

 

[sherron82]

I finally got the wc80 engine only with reed valve, windowed piston and 16mm carb on the bike. Also got a cdh67 exhaust. Im really liking it. Runs better than I thought. This is the first ride and I know the idle is too high, possibly a leak somehere. Other than that it's great.

Well, I attached a video but it's not loading

 

[sherron82]

Well, I attached a video but it's not loading

 

[GW's Motorized]

For videos you have to upload them to YouTube and post a link

 

[ImpulseRocket]

Or you can use a hosting website like imgbb.com

 

[Deleted member 35519]

Wildcat 80cc Ported is great. I ruined my first one lol. I'm breaking one in right now. It's on it's 4th 2.5l tank of gas.

 

[Deleted member 35519]

Use Permatex GREY Fuel Resistant. It's also resistant to oil. I used it to seal the cylinder head with gaskets, and also the alllt he connecting and contacting areas on the reed valve. No issues with air leaks whatsoever. The exhaust is bound to leak during break in. I used Right stuff RTV red silicone there instead.

Word of suggestion on head bolts. Invest into a torque wrench. I torque my headbolts at 14ft lbs. No Issues. I periodically check their tightness after riding. ONLY do this after the engine has completely cooled down. I'm using a NGK BR8HS with an additional washer for the spark plug and haven't tried the BR5HS yet.

Do not full throttle until you've reached about 320 miles. Advice from the seller of California Motorbikes directly:

20:1 break in fuel oil
32:1 after.

I destroyed my previous ported wildcat due to breaking in with 40:1. It's too lean for this motor and believe me the piston WILL SHATTER.

Heat cycling is important. If your engine is getting really hot. Keep in mind this is normal. I'm on my 4th 2.5L tank and heating is called "seasoning the enternal gaskets. Remember these engines aren't watercooled so they can only FAIL if you drive the throttle too hard.


As for tuning the PZ16mm Carb. Here's what works for me. 2 full turns and 1/8th on the air/fuel screw. 3 full turns on the speed screw with the projected spring. I ideally call this the rpm screw. I had a lot of trouble getting the carb to set the first few tanks. Lift your carb needle up one notch from the center. Believe me running rich IS better than lean. These engines will blow pistons on too lean of settings. Remember higher is richer, lower is leaner. I had to study tuning carbs like crazy. Even then sometimes the PZ16s are trash out of the box. I know this because the second Ported kit he sent me the carb was complete trash and untunable. I just cleaned the old carb from the blow engine.

 

[DAMIEN1307]

Lift your carb needle up one notch from the center. Believe me running rich IS better than lean. These engines will blow pistons on too lean of settings. Remember higher is richer, lower is leaner.

This picture removes all doubt...When people say higher, most of these guys are placing the C clip higher which lowers the needle and vice versa...Just use correct terms of leaner and richer and where to place the "C" clip to remove all confusion.

 

[Wrench]

Use Permatex GREY Fuel Resistant. It's also resistant to oil. I used it to seal the cylinder head with gaskets,

While Permatex does say it's fuel resistant, they don't say it can be used on head gaskets

Keep us posted

 

[Wrench]

The Ten Most Common Gasketing Mistakes – Permatex

www.permatex.com