ok, i got the carb. today and got it on.
it's more than just swapping out one carb for the other (in my case anyway)
Since i originally shortened my throttle cable, i had to shorten it a little bit more for the new carb. It does come with a new throttle cable, but the ends are the same as the stock cable, so i just used my original since i shortened it to fit my bike already. I also had to replace the clutch cable guide bolt that has the hole in it for the clutch cable to run through because the float bowl would hit the stock cable guide. The carb comes with a shorter clutch cable guide bolt (or whatever you want to call it) so that was no big deal. The fuel inlet fitting is at the front of the carb angles forward rather than in the center and straight up. My fuel lines(yes, i have 2 lines coming out of my tank) run to a T fitting and then a single line comes out of the T with the shut off valve in it and then to the carb. I had to put on a slightly longer fuel line from the shut off valve, to the carb. The carb is A LOT bigger than the stock carb both externally and internally. the throat of this carb is HUGE compaired to the stock one, the slide is bigger in diameter, the float bowl is bigger, the float is actually like a "real" float set up, and it has a much better mounting clamp that holds it to the intake manifold. The thumb operated clutch lever with cable is a joke. the cable only has one end with a "barb" on it. the other end is just cable. the thumb lever requires a "barb" like the size of the one that is in the throttle handle assembly for the cable to stay in it. the choke itself requires a small "barb" like the one on the throttle cable that hooks to the slide. so there is no way to hook the cable to the thumb lever unless i make my own "barb". so for now i left that cable off and the choke is always closed because it has a spring holding it closed. with the cable hooked up, you pull it and the choke moves up. i wouldn't say that it's a choke tho really, it's more like an air bleed valve. (open it to choke, close it for no choke) I never needed the choke with my stock carb so i will leave the cable off because it started right up without using the choke as it did before with the stock carb.
there is an air/fuel adjustment screw and an idle screw. there are 2 vent pipes on top of the float bowl that must remain open. there is another short tube that comes out of the carb body in the rear and it goes into the carb throat on the intake side, this tube is not blocked off, and unless you plug it, it will have a massive vaccum leak because it just sucks air. I used a rubber vaccum port plug to cap it off.
I have not yet played with the jet needle clip setting yet or the main jet. I did take the float bowl off to see if the main jet was numbered, but there is no number on it, so i have no idea what size main jet is in it. the float set up is more like one that you would find in a motorcycle carb. MUCH better than the plastic hollow floating disk set up in the stock carbs.
i got it running and it fired right up without making any adjustments to the carb at all. the idle was set perfect. i took it for a ride and it seemed a bit rich from idle- 1/2 throttle. so i played with the air-fuel mixture screw and got it running good. but it seems to be a bit still rich at wot, so i will have to play with the main jet. i have a bunch of jets ranging from #60 through 74, but i have no idea where to start. I don't want to start with a jet that is too lean right away or one that is too rich either, without knowing what jet is in it now, it's tough to make a decision on what jet i shoud stick in there in place of it so i can establish a starting point by knowing the jet #.
so if it is too rich right now, and i put a #68 jet in it, what if the stock jet is a #74 (for example). dropping from 74 to 68 would be a drastic change and it would probably be way too lean. but without knowing the stock jet size, this is going to be tough. i guess i could take the stock jet out and put it side by side with the other jets and eyeball the hole that's in it, but that wouldn't be accurate at all because the hole sizes are so close in size.
by the way, i could not get an actual cns carb because it seems like every place that offers them is out of stock. so i took a chance and got one from boygofast. it's labled as a high performance carb, and it looks identical to the cns carb. The name on it is wabrow (not to be confused with WALBRO).
but man right out of the box it made a huge difference in the way my engine runs, it revs faster, and has more pulling power. the engine just seems happier with this bigger carb.
no joke, this carb is about the same size (externally anyway) as the one that is on my Kawaski 100 enduro, and it's design looks almost identical to the kawasaki carb.
it also looks identical to the pics of the cns carb that is various vendors sites. It's very high quality and not cheaply made(like the stock carbs.) it's beefy and it is well built.
I know, it's probably a generic version of the cns, but it was cheaper, it looks the same, does not look cheaply made, and i got it in 3 days. ordered it on sunday, got it on wed.
so far so good..it really woke my engine up.
