Bafang 750 watt hub

I don't trust and don't think those cheep 48v 20 ah Generic (blue wrapper) batteries are very good.
They don't seem to last very long
Frogslayer (he's not here any more) bought one and it stopped working only after about 1 year,
I am specifically naming the standard plastic case bike batteries, or the triangle ones - but they can cost a bit more. The non case ones are a bit if a pain to deal with.

I also don't trust most pre-made batteries lol.
 
I have a chance to buy either a slightly used or new Bafang 750 watt hub ($75 /$150). Would this be a good building block for a nice electric bike?

I was gonna do the same thing. Build my own E Bike thinking I would save $$$
I had the Bike, Super Deluxe all aluminum Electra
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I was planning on buying a Bafang Front Wheel kit or a Bafang 750w Mid Drive
With the 3 speed Nexus hub on my Electra a Mid Drive was gonna be sweet.
I was gonna hide a battery in each saddle bag too
(saddel bags are now on Rover)
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DSCF7738.JPG

But after I priced everything and looked a Fat Tire E Bike I realized a Fat Tire Bike is what I really wanted, to do off road exploring instead of just road riding

Wheel kit or the Mid Drive with batteries was still gonna cost me 2/3 the cost of Rover
Purpose built E bikes is the way to go (y)
DSCF5293.JPG


I also paid up for an extra battery, Gotta have that to explore properly:LOL:
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Yep, extra battery slips in the saddle bag
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I was gonna do the same thing. Build my own E Bike thinking I would save $$$
I had the Bike, Super Deluxe all aluminum Electra
View attachment 194131
I was planning on buying a Bafang Front Wheel kit or a Bafang 750w Mid Drive
With the 3 speed Nexus hub on my Electra a Mid Drive was gonna be sweet.
I was gonna hide a battery in each saddle bag too
(saddel bags are now on Rover)
View attachment 194132
View attachment 194130
But after I priced everything and looked a Fat Tire E Bike I realized a Fat Tire Bike is what I really wanted, to do off road exploring instead of just road riding

Wheel kit or the Mid Drive with batteries was still gonna cost me 2/3 the cost of Rover
Purpose built E bikes is the way to go (y)
View attachment 194132

I also paid up for an extra battery, Gotta have that to explore properly:LOL:
View attachment 194136
Yep, extra battery slips in the saddle bag
View attachment 194137
I think you are spot on Wrench. I just saw a friend of mine advertising these hubs for what seems like half price and less than half for the slightly used one. I think with all my other projects / bikes on the stove right now, I can wait and then put real money for decent bike like yours. And when I am ready in a year, I am sure they will be less expensive i assume.
 
I think you are spot on Wrench. I just saw a friend of mine advertising these hubs for what seems like half price and less than half for the slightly used one. I think with all my other projects / bikes on the stove right now, I can wait and then put real money for decent bike like yours. And when I am ready in a year, I am sure they will be less expensive i assume.
Sell a WC-1 Blue Bird for the price of your new E bike
I bet it will fetch that kinda $
 
LiPos make me nervous in general... i was into quad copters for a couple years.. if you dont keep them at the right voltage or charge them right they swell up and bad things happen.. i kept them in the shed lol
 
LiPos make me nervous in general... i was into quad copters for a couple years.. if you dont keep them at the right voltage or charge them right they swell up and bad things happen.. i kept them in the shed lol
LiPo (polymer) cells are some of the least dangerous ones. If you start swelling packs, you are using the wrong discharge rate on the pack, or you need to run multiples in parallel to spread the amp draw out. You can't convince some guys to spend the money for the right batteries though. I personally won't discharge a LiPo cell more than 80% of its maximum discharge rate just to be safe.

Li-ion scare me the most, as they are the most common battery type to catch fire, because unlike lipo cells, they can very easily short out against each other or other parts of the pack if constructed poorly. Name every vape short fire, ebike fire, etc. and I can probably point at the Li-ion cell.

LiFePO4 (Iron Phosphate cells) are the literal in-between of the two. Can still short out due to the metal casing, but also much more stable and less prone to combustion. Still can, but much harder to do.
 
LiPo (polymer) cells are some of the least dangerous ones. If you start swelling packs, you are using the wrong discharge rate on the pack, or you need to run multiples in parallel to spread the amp draw out. You can't convince some guys to spend the money for the right batteries though. I personally won't discharge a LiPo cell more than 80% of its maximum discharge rate just to be safe.

Li-ion scare me the most, as they are the most common battery type to catch fire, because unlike lipo cells, they can very easily short out against each other or other parts of the pack if constructed poorly. Name every vape short fire, ebike fire, etc. and I can probably point at the Li-ion cell.

LiFePO4 (Iron Phosphate cells) are the literal in-between of the two. Can still short out due to the metal casing, but also much more stable and less prone to combustion. Still can, but much harder to do.
It was from crashes or age. I always discharged super slowly.
 
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