graggy
Active Member
can I get one at an auto parts store? What would I look for? how does the wire come out of the cdi module?
Bike bucking
- Thread starter graggy
- Start date
Nickt919
Well-Known Member
- Local time
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- Oct 2, 2021
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- 1,017
It’s screwed in…threaded, pointed…
Unscrew it.
Did you try different carb needle positions to try to remedy this?
GW's Motorized
Well-Known Member
Rob one from a lawn mower
graggy
Active Member
I just put my clip on the needle in the carb back in the center notch out of five positions where it was originally and loosened the carb from the manifold and pushed it on as tight as I could. Went for a ride and it didn’t buck on me. I guess leaning the carb and if it was sucking some air at the manifold could of what was causing my problem. Hope it stays that way for a while lol
radiatedmocha27
Member
I used two pieces of PVC pipe so that it would scoop air in from the front of the bike instead because I was too cheap to buy another carburetor in mine was a cheap $35 one I found on Amazon that's a mikuni knockoff and that definitely helped cuz my theory was while it may have ran rich at idle where it's hot that also added lubrication especially during the break-in. But when I actually get up to speed it allows me to burn that extra little bit of fuel that it's putting in there so if adjusting the needle doesn't work I would consider making a small RAM air intake to scoop some additional air in there
radiatedmocha27
Member
Depending on the bike you might have trouble keeping the front wheel on the ground with a sprocket at that big
radiatedmocha27
Member
I agree that the standard CDI boxes that connect to the spark plugs without a crown with the micro threads underneath exposed are the worst ones that you can get The red wire ones with a good fat boot on them are the best ones that you can get they provide a more solid connection and stay on the spark plug during certain vibrational periods in the motor at various RPMs that can cause the wires to work loose I would also double check and tighten the wire connectors between your kill switch and CDI box as well to make sure that those are getting a solid connection as well you could even go as far as putting a drop of solder on them to get a more solid connection if you don't plan on taking the motor and CDI box off anytime soon you could also get an upgraded magneto coil as well it could be that your spark is weak and after you put miles on it in carbon builds up it's going to struggle to push that spark through
radiatedmocha27
Member
Simply buy an upgraded CDI module it's one of the most reliable things you can do you can also take the set pin for the magnet and you can sand it down just a tiny fraction on each side which will allow you to twist the magnet left and right to adjust your timing Make sure that you turn the wheel with the magneto cover off to see what direction it's turning if you turn it to the left if I remember correctly that will retard your timing and then twisting it to the right should advance your timing you simply need to watch the direction that your crankshaft is turning you can remove the spark plug to make it easier
I mentioned this on another thread you were posting to earlier today.
LOOK FOR THE DATES ON THESE POSTS AND THREADS BEFORE YOU REPLY TO THEM.
The last thread you were trying to solve problems that were solved 6 months ago...This time your trying to solve problems that were done and gone with 4 months ago.
Are you just making posts to hear yourself???
CUT IT OUT
Moreover, so-called Ram Air does not work on 2 strokes motors.
Thinking outside the box. X-port on intake
X-tech is zoom Ok...They must sell them under different names then...My boxes all have just CNC and X-Tech on them and their paperwork but no mention of the Zoom name.
motoredbikes.com
