Building Michael's OCC with a 79cc Predator

Here is the finished sprocket I made from a 22T chainring, a 5/8" collar and a piece of metal backing. It has .050 runout which is acceptable to me. I'll just leave the chain a little loose.
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As you can see this is the largest diameter that will still give me clearance to the fan shroud.
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I ran a 5/8" end mill through the square hole in both arms. Then I drilled a deep hole in the shaft and used a longer set screw to secure the sprocket. The arm next to the sprocket will be welded to the shaft. The sealed bearings stop (after being pushed in) on the lip that remained after removing the threads. Just to make sure you
see #12 machine screws threaded into the tube behind the bearing on both sides. A collar on the far side keeps
the shaft in place with no inward force on the bearings. The next post is where things get interesting. Stay tuned.
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Without asking the Lord to guide me through this it would have been impossible. When asking you for ideas, I got no replies. There is no such thing as a freewheel thread tap anywhere but the factory. The FW needs to be removable because I plan to change the spokes. I considered using the TIG. This is the only way I could think of doing this.

After removing the threads the FW pushes onto the hub. Only half the surface makes contact which presented this enormise problem. Remember, the pedals will only be used to convience the cops this is truley a pedal bike. To lock these two surfaces together I drilled and taped a hole down thru the seperation line. I will install a 6-32 Allen head set screw with some Locktite and then check one more thing off my "to do" list.

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This bolt, which has a ball bearing on the end, will seat into the hole in the shaft locking it down tight.
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This is the position used for actually pedaling the bike.
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Simply pull the pin, rotate the crank and lock down the shaft for the crusin' position.
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It's time to come up with the throttle linkage control on this Predator. The easiest way would be to spend big bucks and buy a bolt on kit, but I made one for a couple with pieces from ACE. ACE is the PLACE says John Madden. He's right.

A picture is worth a thousand words but I do want to say: to get the most travel on your throttle grip the cable has to be attached as close to the end of the lever as possible. In all the videos they seem to attach an inch inward from the end, which is not the best location. You first need to flatten out the end of the lever before drilling the hole. As you can see, I still intend to use the governor. When I upgrade to a P-19 carb later all of this linkage will be removed and offered for sale.

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I had my frame sandblasted this morning to get rid of the thin layer of chrome plating the factory used. I managed to get the first coat of paint on after the primer dried. I plan to do two more coats during this five day period of sunny weather in the seventies. This was a landmarkday for me. Getting closer..................
 
I had my frame sandblasted this morning to get rid of the thin layer of chrome plating the factory used. I managed to get the first coat of paint on after the primer dried. I plan to do two more coats during this five day period of sunny weather in the seventies. This was a landmarkday for me. Getting closer..................
How many coats of primer did you use and number of times sanding it down? i have been told to do three?
 
I only did two coats. Everyone does it differently. How knarly the sandblast job turned out is a controlling factor along with how many coats of paint do you want. A lot of people color sand the final color to make it really smooth. Not me, this isn't a show car.
 
While waiting for the second coat to dry I decided to create a kill switch. I am not a big fan of the button by the throttle and reaching that cheesy Predator switch would be an impossibility. I think this will work fine for me.
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