T
Torques
Guest
bamabikeguy said:
That is amazing, you can check my milage update here: http://www.motoredbikes.com/viewtopic.php?t=1828&start=15
That is amazing, you can check my milage update here: http://www.motoredbikes.com/viewtopic.php?t=1828&start=15
bamabikeguy
Active Member
Hive,
I sold my first recumbent, using a 25 Zenoah, waiting for clarification on the model.
Sure do appreciate all the information, if it is okay by you, I'll post the build in this thread, so a guest can compare.
I also sold my first tandem, a Drifter 7 speed using a 33Tanaka, will post it in a seperate thread.
I sold my first recumbent, using a 25 Zenoah, waiting for clarification on the model.
Sure do appreciate all the information, if it is okay by you, I'll post the build in this thread, so a guest can compare.
I also sold my first tandem, a Drifter 7 speed using a 33Tanaka, will post it in a seperate thread.
H
Hive
Guest
Adding comparisons
By all means, run the thread as far as you like. It will help.
I am about to add a couple goodies I learned in the process of tweaking this ride.
By all means, run the thread as far as you like. It will help.
I am about to add a couple goodies I learned in the process of tweaking this ride.
bamabikeguy
Active Member
Great, thanks 8)
First point of clarification: your rear wheel looks to be a 26". The Sun EZ-3 this customer first chose had 2 - 20's on the rear and a 16" on the front.
What is the size of your front wheel? and does Burley have a 24" front on any of their models.
Better yet, could you post Burley's link?
Here's Suns:
http://www.sunbicycles.com/sun/recumbents.htm
My customer is doing the research, he looked at lightfootcycles, thought them a bit pricey. Here's Lightfoots site:
http://www.lightfootcycles.com/price_order.htm
This thread could be the gospel of recumbents when we finish! 8) 8), to help folks avoid the whole misunderstanding of frames and the spokerings.
First point of clarification: your rear wheel looks to be a 26". The Sun EZ-3 this customer first chose had 2 - 20's on the rear and a 16" on the front.
What is the size of your front wheel? and does Burley have a 24" front on any of their models.
Better yet, could you post Burley's link?
Here's Suns:
http://www.sunbicycles.com/sun/recumbents.htm
My customer is doing the research, he looked at lightfootcycles, thought them a bit pricey. Here's Lightfoots site:
http://www.lightfootcycles.com/price_order.htm
This thread could be the gospel of recumbents when we finish! 8) 8), to help folks avoid the whole misunderstanding of frames and the spokerings.
H
Hive
Guest
BENTS
Burley halted production for couple years.
The rear wheel is from GEBE, 26" x 36 spokes; original only had 32 spokes,
The fasteners on this recumbent are all the same.
To secure the support bar I used standard 5mm SS bolts used to attach beverage cages to frame supports.
Where the fender or structural support bar (below seat, B-tween post and drop-out end, attaches to frame and is attached to the grocery bag side support, they are fixed with self locking SS nuts.
The others are drilled and tapped on the the inside and simply tightened, to keep that installation simple, as you can see the outer holes were redone a couple of times to adjust to other contingencies as I fabricated as I worked. If you do not wish to drill and tap, use bolts and nuts; end result will be same.
Burley halted production for couple years.
The rear wheel is from GEBE, 26" x 36 spokes; original only had 32 spokes,
The fasteners on this recumbent are all the same.
To secure the support bar I used standard 5mm SS bolts used to attach beverage cages to frame supports.
Where the fender or structural support bar (below seat, B-tween post and drop-out end, attaches to frame and is attached to the grocery bag side support, they are fixed with self locking SS nuts.
The others are drilled and tapped on the the inside and simply tightened, to keep that installation simple, as you can see the outer holes were redone a couple of times to adjust to other contingencies as I fabricated as I worked. If you do not wish to drill and tap, use bolts and nuts; end result will be same.
H
Hive
Guest
RESPONSE TO BAMAGUY'S ?s
AS I mentioned before, Burley stopped making these bents at least for a while, so their web site is void of recumbent info. If you phish around the WWW using "Burley recumbent" you will find specs and pics from those who have one or dealers who are still selling them.
You might also try The Hostel Shoppe, in Stevens Point, WI or Calhoun Bikes in Mpls.
I purchased my Burley in complete ignorance.
Did not even know the bike had custom paint etc. I made sure the ring would fit and decided the longer axle would be needed to get engine mount to work out side of frame. Found out stuff later.
BTW, anyone who has bike with disk brakes, the long axle, 8.5 to 9" is a must, so the GEBE support can be bolted on securely clear of frame and brake mounts, and angled more upright - looks better, runs better, reduces fuel problems as well. Better too long ...
GEBE makes them up to 8.5" but might do one at 9". Not all that difficult if you can thread a bar and so on.
On making longer cables longer than 100" might be something you will have to do your self. I have extra trigger throttle, but forgot where I bought it. See thread on "throttle cables." And I intend to change to New Dimension type throttle.
Rear wheels are all 26" and fronts are all 20" as far as I know, and there is about 1/8 to 1/4 quarter clearance for drive ring at fork.
Recumbents are a bit spendy. (I do know (now) where they is a very nice Bacchetta Agia available from Lubbock TX, for about $900 with shipping and two sets of handle bars. It will need longer axle, and as I recall, there is enough room at fork for drive ring.) Best to search local shops first, however. You will be surprised as I was to find one in small town.
Spendy Crank Forward (CF) Rans bikes seem the best compromise, like the one with front suspension.
Back to Burley: You will need a long 8.5 to 9 inch rear axle and 36 spoke wheel (order from GEBE or lace your own). They will send a 24 spoke ring but prefer not to do so. I suppose, if you are not a heavy engine user, the 24 will be fine.
Also, my bent needed a 112" throttle cable. I assembled my own from components from a 120" cable assy and it works like a charm.
It is simple matter to use braided wire cutter to adjust length and cut off the casing as needed for proper movement. Fixing the new end can be as simple as heating and compressing a lead sinker or steel tube on wire and sanding to fit engine slot.
If anyone has better/easier way, post it below for all to use.
AS I mentioned before, Burley stopped making these bents at least for a while, so their web site is void of recumbent info. If you phish around the WWW using "Burley recumbent" you will find specs and pics from those who have one or dealers who are still selling them.
You might also try The Hostel Shoppe, in Stevens Point, WI or Calhoun Bikes in Mpls.
I purchased my Burley in complete ignorance.
Did not even know the bike had custom paint etc. I made sure the ring would fit and decided the longer axle would be needed to get engine mount to work out side of frame. Found out stuff later.
BTW, anyone who has bike with disk brakes, the long axle, 8.5 to 9" is a must, so the GEBE support can be bolted on securely clear of frame and brake mounts, and angled more upright - looks better, runs better, reduces fuel problems as well. Better too long ...
GEBE makes them up to 8.5" but might do one at 9". Not all that difficult if you can thread a bar and so on.
On making longer cables longer than 100" might be something you will have to do your self. I have extra trigger throttle, but forgot where I bought it. See thread on "throttle cables." And I intend to change to New Dimension type throttle.
Rear wheels are all 26" and fronts are all 20" as far as I know, and there is about 1/8 to 1/4 quarter clearance for drive ring at fork.
Recumbents are a bit spendy. (I do know (now) where they is a very nice Bacchetta Agia available from Lubbock TX, for about $900 with shipping and two sets of handle bars. It will need longer axle, and as I recall, there is enough room at fork for drive ring.) Best to search local shops first, however. You will be surprised as I was to find one in small town.
Spendy Crank Forward (CF) Rans bikes seem the best compromise, like the one with front suspension.
Back to Burley: You will need a long 8.5 to 9 inch rear axle and 36 spoke wheel (order from GEBE or lace your own). They will send a 24 spoke ring but prefer not to do so. I suppose, if you are not a heavy engine user, the 24 will be fine.
Also, my bent needed a 112" throttle cable. I assembled my own from components from a 120" cable assy and it works like a charm.
It is simple matter to use braided wire cutter to adjust length and cut off the casing as needed for proper movement. Fixing the new end can be as simple as heating and compressing a lead sinker or steel tube on wire and sanding to fit engine slot.
If anyone has better/easier way, post it below for all to use.
bamabikeguy
Active Member
I am lucky that my bike dealer is also a Snapper supplier, so rather than waiting for GEBE to send the longer cable, I'll just let The Peddler do it, once I have the measurement of the Tandem frame.
I don't trust website pictures, when they assemble my Tandem, I'll carry the engine and mount with me, and we will have it correct in the first try.
Might cost $10 more, but when it's done it's done.
Since this is my first Tandem, when I finish I'll be able to post the length here on MB.com, for others to use as a guide. Same as your recumbent throttle cable being a starting point.
What would you suggest as being the MAXIMUM throttle cable slackage?
For instance, no way would I go UNDER 106" using your guide, but don't you think a person could make 112"-115" work?
I don't trust website pictures, when they assemble my Tandem, I'll carry the engine and mount with me, and we will have it correct in the first try.
Might cost $10 more, but when it's done it's done.
Since this is my first Tandem, when I finish I'll be able to post the length here on MB.com, for others to use as a guide. Same as your recumbent throttle cable being a starting point.
What would you suggest as being the MAXIMUM throttle cable slackage?
For instance, no way would I go UNDER 106" using your guide, but don't you think a person could make 112"-115" work?
H
Hive
Guest
I really do not have an
Answer.
I hook the cable up and begin to nibble the casing until it locks well and moves just a bit over max. It is a pain, but works for me, beers help.
As to length. Don't know...If it is smooth and does not lock up, it is fine. I guess you can built them to any length, as the longer ones get thicker anyway...if the diameter is larger than the engine retainer slot, I flatten and add lead etc.
Answer.
I hook the cable up and begin to nibble the casing until it locks well and moves just a bit over max. It is a pain, but works for me, beers help.
As to length. Don't know...If it is smooth and does not lock up, it is fine. I guess you can built them to any length, as the longer ones get thicker anyway...if the diameter is larger than the engine retainer slot, I flatten and add lead etc.
H
Hive
Guest
BENT UNDER POWER
Is a joy to ride. The steering is quick and will take a bit of time, but the ride is slick, to say the least.
The Tanaka 3300 engine is outstanding in power, though a bit noisy, but not that bad. It is way more motor than the Honda GX25 on the hill, but on the flats, not all that different, save the noise. Highly recommend it for its low weight to power, even though I abhor mixing gas and oil, it is worth it. Still, if you have no large grade to traverse, the Honda or Robin 25s will serve you well and are more quiet.
Will advise on muffler set-up, if I get that far. Exhaust is about 1' from my right ear.
Only bike I can imagine that would be as fun to ride might be one of the CF (crank forward) machines from RANS, though I honestly believe few bikes would be as comfortable as reclining on a bent, however. The RANS would be more maneuverable, no doubt, so one has to make a choice there; they are also new and expensive, while used bents are all over.
If a bent is in your future, suggest one like the Bacchetta Agio or something similar to what I now run.
I know the Sun LWB (long wheel base) bents are very compatible with GEBE systems. LWB bents are comfortable, indeed.
I would not put a motor on a SWB bent or what are called "high racers" as they might be a bit scary and too quick.
Fun stuff, however you do it.
Is a joy to ride. The steering is quick and will take a bit of time, but the ride is slick, to say the least.
The Tanaka 3300 engine is outstanding in power, though a bit noisy, but not that bad. It is way more motor than the Honda GX25 on the hill, but on the flats, not all that different, save the noise. Highly recommend it for its low weight to power, even though I abhor mixing gas and oil, it is worth it. Still, if you have no large grade to traverse, the Honda or Robin 25s will serve you well and are more quiet.
Will advise on muffler set-up, if I get that far. Exhaust is about 1' from my right ear.
Only bike I can imagine that would be as fun to ride might be one of the CF (crank forward) machines from RANS, though I honestly believe few bikes would be as comfortable as reclining on a bent, however. The RANS would be more maneuverable, no doubt, so one has to make a choice there; they are also new and expensive, while used bents are all over.
If a bent is in your future, suggest one like the Bacchetta Agio or something similar to what I now run.
I know the Sun LWB (long wheel base) bents are very compatible with GEBE systems. LWB bents are comfortable, indeed.
I would not put a motor on a SWB bent or what are called "high racers" as they might be a bit scary and too quick.
Fun stuff, however you do it.
A
Alaskavan
Guest
Long chain
I may be wrong, but I believe the chain on a LWB recumbent is so long that there's a lot of play to move the return portion out of the way of the tensioned portion.
I just noticed...that's pretty trippy the way chain runs, doesn't it touch when it crosses itself like that?
I may be wrong, but I believe the chain on a LWB recumbent is so long that there's a lot of play to move the return portion out of the way of the tensioned portion.
