Chains Chain jumping teeth

[Big Red]

Motor Mount

Great Job Joe. A welded mount is the best way to go. That mount will NEVER wobble and the hard rubber should make for a smooth ride.
Looks like in yer pics you went with the manic machanic sprocket mount. I have one of the new Howard mounts that I'm putting on my Cranbrook build. Let me know what you think of the manic hub. I've heard they can sometimes slip, but I've never used one so I can't say for sure. Let me know how it works out for you.
Again, Great job and enjoy the ride.
Shiney Side Up,
Big Red.

 

[HeadSmess]

im using heavy duty bmx freestyle chain, i dont like the kinked sideplates, but... havent snapped one yet

i also wash a chain out with petrol when new. then either leave it dry or mix up some paraffin wax and a heap of powdered graphite, then boil the chain in it

oil/grease + grit = grinding paste = worn out chains

welded engine mounts are the only way to go!

but youll find theres LESS vibration if you throw the rubber away.

hold the engine rigid and it cant shake around, let it flex even a little bit and it will buzz you to death.
a bicycle frame should have enough "spring" to soak up a lot of the hi frequency vibrations which are what sends youre hands numb. and weights on the ends of the bars are another vibration deadener.

before you whine and say "but cars have rubber engine mounts" consider how much flex is in a car engine mount, and the fact that theres invariably more than three of them... the placement of them is not just random, either, but specifically planned out... plus theres allowances in the drivetrain for allowing such flex.

same goes for motorcycles. the engine mounts allow flex in one axis only... i think nortons went so far that the engine and swingarm are rigidly held together on a subframe that is rubber mounted to the rest of the frame... and nowadays a lot of rear swingarm pivots are integral with the engine cases.

 

[toojung2die]

Solid is better when it comes to motor mounts. I have rubber between my frame mounts and the engine but they're tightened down to where there's NO movement. The hard rubber fills the slight mismatch between the frame and engine, that's all. Talking about car engine mounts, I resorted to filling my car's engine mounts with epoxy to make them solid. The stock mounts couldn't handle the increased torque. There's still a little rubber around the mount and it shakes real nice at idle. No more engine coming loose under the hood.

 

[Big Red]

im using heavy duty bmx freestyle chain, i dont like the kinked sideplates, but... havent snapped one yet

i also wash a chain out with petrol when new. then either leave it dry or mix up some paraffin wax and a heap of powdered graphite, then boil the chain in it

oil/grease + grit = grinding paste = worn out chains

welded engine mounts are the only way to go!

but youll find theres LESS vibration if you throw the rubber away.

hold the engine rigid and it cant shake around, let it flex even a little bit and it will buzz you to death.
a bicycle frame should have enough "spring" to soak up a lot of the hi frequency vibrations which are what sends youre hands numb. and weights on the ends of the bars are another vibration deadener.

before you whine and say "but cars have rubber engine mounts" consider how much flex is in a car engine mount, and the fact that theres invariably more than three of them... the placement of them is not just random, either, but specifically planned out... plus theres allowances in the drivetrain for allowing such flex.

same goes for motorcycles. the engine mounts allow flex in one axis only... i think nortons went so far that the engine and swingarm are rigidly held together on a subframe that is rubber mounted to the rest of the frame... and nowadays a lot of rear swingarm pivots are integral with the engine cases.

Quote:[but youll find theres LESS vibration if you throw the rubber away.]:End Quote.

Hey HeadSmess, Do you think the same applies to a little rubber on the stock mount? Or would it depend on the properties each individual frame?
I've never really thought past the notion that a little rubber should take out some vibration.
Big Red.

 

[HeadSmess]

rubber will take out vibrations...if its setup correctly.

i fear (and have experienced) that rubber in the stock mounts just allows the engine to vibrate in an unpredictable fashion. and at certain rpm, the vibration becomes harmonic, handlebars start shaking, oh boy... then welds start breaking

also, rubber in the mounts doesnt allow the studs to really get tight. they need locknuts and to be left slightly loose, otherwise youve defeated the whole purpose of the rubber.

and loose studs results in vibration and we are back where we started, with chain issues...

look at a motorbike, thats all i can say. other than the lil honda ct's and chinese thumpers,(or similar) theres always three mounts.

and every mount is a cylindrical type with a long rubber bush. they all run across the frame. allowing the engine to go up and down, forwards and backwards but NOT side to side!

now if you changed the mounts on a HT so they were similar... bolts/studs at right angles, or parallel to the crankshaft!

you know, thats just something i might work on now...could be an easy kit, and even then you wouldnt have to weld anything as long as the clamps to the frame are solid enough
it would also cure the fact that the angle between the existing mounts is wrong for just about every bike anyone attempts to attach a HT to... the frame clamps will be SEPERATE to the engine, and allow for some angular changes

think anyone would buy it?

 

[HeadSmess]

to the workshop! i have a mission!

 

[Big Red]

Mount

The best looking mount kit I've seen so far is the Manic Mechanic mount. Looks like it will adjust to any shape frame. Don't know how many sizes they carry it in. Still doesn't address the vibration issue though.
Big Red.

 

[SdCruizer]

Moto, I've found that if you run a REAL LOOSE chain it'll do the same thing. It slaps around till it bunches up in the case. A friend busted out a case the same way. While everyone is giving good advice, I thought I'd include a mention about chain adjustment. A noob may not realize how important this is. If a chain adjuster/tensioner slips then it could also result in a bunched up chain.
Shiney Side Up,
Big Red.

Yes I agree and had the same thing happen to me the first few starts
I was off by 1 link too long and it did the same thing to me trying to start it
luckily I was at home, I thought I seized the engine

Try getting a half link too incase taking out 1 link is too much and makes it too tight