View attachment 209873
Really!? Lmao. I was wondering why it was so easy; well, easier than I expected to take my motor off. I didn't see anything about grade on the bottle that I can remember and I'll look next time for sure cause I'm struggling. My motor is amazing it fires up right away it's everything else. I'm doing something wrong it keeps falling apart
There are 3 commonly available temp rated grades of medium strength Loctite (actual loctite brand) 242 - standard. 243 - high temp. 2422 - extreme temp. If you want it to never release on an engine like this, ever, then the 2422 is the one to use... but it's also the most expensive since it is ceramic based and rated to 650 degrees. 243 is easier and cheaper to get and the 350 degree rating is sufficient enough for most conditions with these engines. If you exceed that rating, you have other things to worry about since you are approaching critical temps and are probably close to soft seizing the engine anyway.
Even with loctite, if the vibrations are strong enough it will still slowly back off the hardware. For example, Harley Davidson motorcycles have critical fastener checks during services, and many of those fasteners have thread locker on them from the factory.
The thermal cycles during the break in period and even after also cause hardware to work loose as the metals expand and contract at different rates (steel vs. aluminum) too. This is why you will find a lot of us constantly telling new people with engines that start running like crap after their first few rides to do things like re-torque the head bolts/nuts, and check all of the other hardware too.
As a personal aside, as much as I like a good chemical means to secure hardware, mechanical methods are also on my favorites list and I often combine them. Example: I will loctite a nut on to a stud, and then add another nut to act as a jam nut against that one.
There is no kill like over kill.