failed hub free wheel ?

Discussion in 'Rack Mounted Engines' started by DetonatorTuning, Jul 23, 2008.

  1. DetonatorTuning

    DetonatorTuning Active Member

    any one have a cassette hub free wheel go bad on any type of drive but esp. a rack mount / GEBE ?

    i have started having an odd, as yet untracable, inconsistant, symtom that is baffling me.

    SOMETIMES, at speeds from 30-36mph at steady speeds or accell. i'll get what i'll call a dull faint clumpclumpclumpclumpclump FEELING more than heard kind of chuffing tapping, i don't know how to define, wierd, rotating pesterment.

    it will start and stop on it's own and never during or after any decernable conditions directly leading to or away from it.

    i checked my wheel bearings, drive mounts and alignment, evrything around the wheel assembly that i can think of. i don't know anything about the construction and working of freewheels so that is still suspect to me.

    one other thing. it sure appears that my drive ring has been moving on my spokes, there are clean spots on the spokes both inside and outside the drivering, but i checked the distance from the ring to the rim at every connected spoke and they are all dead even. i wonder if rain water can run through the gaps and cause this to appear this way ? (just thought of that )

    anyway any ideas or suggestions apprec'd.


  2. stude13

    stude13 Active Member

    i think i saw that on twilight zone, it happened over and over and
  3. SirJakesus

    SirJakesus Guest

    Are your spokes tight? Or are they loose enough to let the nipples crash around in the rim eyelets? If your hub and freewheel doesn't have play or make popping/grinding sounds when its off the bike and you're fiddling with it the hub is fine. I would check the spokes as the GEBE drive ring puts stress on them possibly loosening them or snapping them over time. Good luck.
  4. spad4me

    spad4me Member

    I had a freewheel sieze on me, on a happy time

    It was a drag to get off the wheel to replace it.

    Glad you are riding so much.
  5. DetonatorTuning

    DetonatorTuning Active Member

    yea it's the sound of that SIEZE idea that haunts me.

    been there done than, once had a front whel bearing dramatically fail and sieze on my '73 HD SuperGlide while traveling 55mph on a 4 lane highway.

    it's the sudden riding on the tank with your knees jambed under the bars so far you can't counter steer the slide that freaks you out the most.

    the some how leaving the road on the right side and falling over on the shoulder was a relieve.

    other than this , the ride is great and i look forward to it every day.

  6. DetonatorTuning

    DetonatorTuning Active Member

    just back from the garage, thought i'd look at the spokes yet again.

    found the cause of those odd marks on my spokes.

    the drivering is flexing in and out about 1/8" each way. don't know how i missed that before, bu tyou can put your thumb against the ring and with little pressure the ring will deflect and come back. it does it either way.

    this is very odd to me , as the wheel is straight and solid, having no runout or wobbles at all.

    boy this stuff bugs me.

    who else is putting atleast 200 miles a week on a GEBE system ? any quirks ?

    Last edited: Jul 24, 2008
  7. spad4me

    spad4me Member

    You are supossed to epoxy the drive ring to the oversized spokes.

    And time you run over 20 MPH "COUGH, Max legal speed in AZ. " Or use your motorized bicycle for a lot of miles .
    You destroy bike parts.
    For example Large Phillipino's constant consumption of rear wheels.

    Check on the gebe site I believe he epoxys the drive ring.
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2008
  8. DetonatorTuning

    DetonatorTuning Active Member

    yes my drive ring came visably epoxied to the spokes, it's all gone now.

    today i went thru a bunch of aggravation re-truing my drive ring with split bolts and a dial indicator. it's so close now that if the indicator dial didn't exagerate the variations it would be VERY hard to see it at all.

    this was an intersting exercise as it showed up some things. previously it seems that my belt was stretching at a trackable rate and i needed to increase the amount of tension i was using.

    with the ring re-centered and using the same belt, the tension arm went back to the position i marked when the belt was new. what this shows me is that the ring WAS creeping up and down on the spokes making it LOOK like my belt was loosening up.

    also i was making it worse by using increasing tension AND leaving the tensioner locked down full time. i really believe ,now ,that when not in operation you should relieve the tensioner wheather you are using the spring or a static position and force yourself to remember to replace it as part of your startup routine.

    we'll see how things go in the morning.

  9. kawasaki999

    kawasaki999 Member

    Steve, How about some pics of your split bolt set up. I considered using wire when the time comes. I have a pin hole in the dom pipe where it is welded,oil runs down the pipe and makes a mess, I jb welded it 2 times with no luck, put 3 layers on it tonight, will see in 24 hrs, any other ideas other than welding, dont want to mess up chrome. Got stopped by a motorcycle cop today, he just wanted to look at the goose,wanted all details so he can make one for himself! He called another cruser that had a camera so he could have pics of the set up, he also was in awe.
  10. DetonatorTuning

    DetonatorTuning Active Member

    sure i'll get some tonight. it ain't pretty , but it worked to a degree. i'll see on the way to work if they hold.

    i only had 10 so i'm on every other spoke for now. i think i'll get more and do the rest tonight.

    yep, people LOVE MB's, people that come in the lumber yard are constantly asking about mine.

  11. DetonatorTuning

    DetonatorTuning Active Member

    yeah man !! the split bolts work great. it's amazing how a seemly little thing like flex movement of the drivering makes such a huge difference.

    i was handling it the same as before this morning and found myself looking at the speedo after leaving a stop when i thought i would be doing 25mph and was already doing 35mph. it's faster and ERIE SMOOTH.

    i have been loosing alot of response and had just a soggy feeling in the drive due to the ring not being totally centered and solid in one spot on the spokes.

    it makes total sense when you think of it but it took a while for me to find it.

    i'm going to get some more split bolts today and recheck with the indicator tonight.

  12. DetonatorTuning

    DetonatorTuning Active Member

    OK guys,

    the drivering was faultless and stayed put in exactly as i set it last night thru 40mls o fcommute today. i was extra careful to pay attention thru the places where i had been havin gthe clumping symtoms and there were none today.

    i don't want to return to this particular part of maintainence if possible so i got more split bolts and backed up my work. last night i put them on the outside of the ring every other engagement spoke, today i put them on the alternating spokes INSIDE the ring.

    1st pic, what i used.

    2nd pic,not very clear but you can kind of see a piece of wire in place that you need because the split nuts are just THAT much too big. it also cushions the anvil against the spoke and i think that's a good thing.

    3rd pic, how they look on the ring. i faced them all the same way for easiest access and clearence AND to keep as much of the mass as near the centerline of the wheel as possible.

    i'm very sure it will never move again.

    if you followed my build thread you have seen ABOUT everything that a guy can mess up or have an issue with by putting a BIG engine on the GEBE system. i have to say, the GEBE stuff is tough and WAY better than it gets credit for. the more i screw up and it survives the more impressed i am.

    here's the pics,

    Attached Files: