For What it is Worth - Raleigh Gruv 2 CF

GEBE Cable

Mary, the GEBE cable may not be long enough and may not be thick enough to move with long enough. When I added that long cable, fitting into the screw slot was close, but it fit after squeezed with a pliers.

Tricky call, as the length adds friction and the diameter helps overcome jamming.

On the other hand, if the GEBE cable is long enough and will move well in Teflon casing, why not adapt it to the Sinz lever?
 
Crank Forward Fuji Saratoga with GEBE Power

Like to see a pic of the Saratoga...Keep engine as close to seat as practical for balance.

Got to be a way to get the right cable diameter and be able to file the screw slot wider, if too narrow. I will look through receipts to see if I can tell you where I got that cable assy I used for the recumbent and then moved to the Gruv II.

Fishing: Walleyes are hitting in river here, but flooding has the current dangerously fast. I do not fish in river. But am going north to Brule for steelhead. Those big rainbows will be running soon up there and high water for a change might off good fishing. It has been slow for me for last couple years.

I would like to do more lake fishing for Northern (sight fishing) and some Walleye and may do it this year. But, I also sail, and that does interfere.
 
Throttle Cable at Carb for GEBE

Mary, Would offer pic of assembled cable end engine, but I take engine off every winter and hang bike up.

I will, however, take pic of the cable end and post it tomorrow sometime. We have more snow here, so biking is out until the sand on the street goes. should have thought of that and took pic of cable in slot earlier.
 
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Throttle Cable at Carb for GEBE Pic

I was able to take pic of the cable end not on carb, but note how thick...re yours, Mary.

You just make out the brass sleeve thingy I used, covered in solder. The cable does extend beyond the throttle screw about half inch or so.
 

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Throttle Cable at Carb for GEBE

Mary, I wonder, if you clean and coat the cable at the right distance from the end with some solder, then give it a whack with a mini sledge, might it not fit in the slot, with the bulge end keeping it in place?

The trick is getting close to the right length, so the adjusting nut will snug at low idle.
 
Raleigh Gruv II vs Saratoga Differences

I did forget to mention one thing about the Gruv.

The Gruv comes with a rack bolt attachment beneath the seat. This can be drilled out to take a longer SS bolt that fastens the engine strap and also the rack metal in the pics.

This may not be a big deal, because it is simple enough to fashion a clamp that will do the same thing. It was sort of easier, and thought I would mention it.

The Fuji bike seems to have been made more in a coaster or one speed variety, and that likely makes little difference to some, as long as the front wheel has a brake or both wheels are braked, but if on hill or doing hill travel, maybe the 24-speed version is better, if you can find one.

The other thing is that if no hills, the smaller 25cc 4-stroke Subaru or Honda engines might be better choice as lower revs and no oil mix. The draw back may be with the horizontal fuel cell, but that may not be big deal to some.


 
Hi Bob,

I just checked the board, I hadn't seen your recent posts. Thank you! I've had a nasty cold and have laid low for a few days.

I pretty much settled on either a thinner cable (which is available at the local bike shop) to use with the Sinz brake lever OR buying the GEBE longer cable that is 5-6 inches longer than I need. The cable I bought thinking it would work OK was returned to the store.

The only problem now is finding an end that will work with the stainless steel cable and that will fit in the brake lever...and of course, perhaps finding someone who can weld the fitting onto the end of the cable... if necessary.

A local bike shop owner suggested I go to an auto parts place to see if they have a set screw/barrel sort of fitting that would work...haven't got that far yet. He also mentioned something about soldering one end that won't work...I assume he meant the problem with one type of metal (stainless) not "mixing" well with another type of metal (lead end).

I just glanced at your posts but haven't read them...will do so after posting this message. I did see something about walleyes.

Thanks again,

Mary
 
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Throttle Cable at Carb for GEBE

Cable needs to have the "drum" piece swagged to the cable end. If cable did not come with cable drum, may not work. GEBE should help. Maybe Harris Bikes.

The carb end you can form yourself, as noted above.

Brandy, neat, helps with cold.
 
Solved the problem...Yeah!!!!!

Hi Bob,

I finally solved the problem...what a bear that was! Geez, I can't believe how much work that took to figure this thing out. :sick:

I bought a brake cable 1.5mm (diameter) times 2000mm (long) from REI. It will work perfectly with the Tanaka 40 engine and the Sinz brake lever.

The GEBE throttle cable is 1.3 mm thick. The REI cable I bought is 1.5mm thick. It just fits and fits nicely into the Tanaka screw. All the cable will need is an end cap crimped onto the cable. The throttle cable I bought from a moped dealer was too thick and I returned it.

Now to figure out how to install it. Actually, I know how after studying the GEBE cable and how it fit into the screw. I just need to read the directions on the REI kit (housing and cable and end caps, etc. for $16) and take my time.

I will post pictures of the bike, etc., just haven't had time.

After talking with a lot of people, I decided not to go the solder route, I felt it might not hold up well.

P.S. Am sending you a PM.

TL,

Mary
 
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Throttle Cables

Go for it. It is worth it.

The Sinze lever needs a piece of lead shaped like a drum on the lever end. I think most bike shops can do...Harris in CA for sure.

That lever is super. Glad it worked out. I had similar tribulations, and had to even grind on the lever to get it to fit snug with bike brake levers and gearing, then had to learn about using hair spray for grip removal and installing, which I never had heard of before, but it worked and was way worth it.

Tried to buy Saratoga for friend, but was sold.

Think about adding Specialized Hemisphere tire, at least for rear, or Schwalbe tires for front and rear, flats suck. The tires are spendy but will go forever. The latter will be softer and easier on your rear.

Maybe a shock seat post, and inexpensive one later one. ($20) Butt saver.

Be careful on corners with the stock fork, might get a bit wild. I bought a Rock Shock from Vegaspaddy here that was new and needed no tube cutting. Way stable.

It helps to have engine mounted as close to you or seat as practical. Am guessing you are shorter than I, so about inch behind seat is near perfect.

You will have to make a clamp for the engine strap, which I would make from bar aluminum stock sold at big box stores. You can use a vice and large adjustable wrench to bend to needs and to fit clamp and bolt.

Put up some pics here, love to see your bike.

Sent PM also.
 
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