For What it is Worth - Raleigh Gruv 2 CF

Cable

Mary, push comes to shove, you could likely coat the Sinz cable with flux and add enough solder to be able shape into a drum that will work. The solder will mix in the strands and so on. Will surely hold. Just file away and fit, or make mold, add the cable and pour.
 
Hive said:
Mary, push comes to shove, you could likely coat the Sinz cable with flux and add enough solder to be able shape into a drum that will work. The solder will mix in the strands and so on. Will surely hold. Just file away and fit, or make mold, add the cable and pour.
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Did you know that there is a tiny slip-on metal sleeve that will enclose and enlarge the drum?:unsure:

I have it on my 2006 NE5 Whizzer rear brake cable.:geek:
 
Throttle Cable at Carb for GEBE

No, I did not. Where? If I had known, I would have sent Mary my long cable with no drum...how cool. And, it makes sense.

Where?
 
Hive said:
No, I did not. Where? If I had known, I would have sent Mary my long cable with no drum...how cool. And, it makes sense.

Where?
Click to expand...

You will have to start with a small drum. The sleeve simply makes the small drum fit better in a bigger hole in the brake lever.

It was on my Whizzer. Let me search for the specific item...
 
Thanks, guys...

Well, the dog gone thing came off, that is the end I crimped onto the brake cable. The "end" was a part that came with the REI brake cable kit, the same end one would see at the end of brake cable.

Bummer. Now, I will try and see if I can find a welder who can make an end for me. I don't know anything about that sort of stuff.
 
Mary said:
Well, the dog gone thing came off, that is the end I crimped onto the brake cable. The "end" was a part that came with the REI brake cable kit, the same end one would see at the end of brake cable.

Bummer. Now, I will try and see if I can find a welder who can make an end for me. I don't know anything about that sort of stuff.
Click to expand...

If I'm understanding you correctly, I believe you just put the little cable end on. Those are just to keep the end of your cable from fraying. They won't hold much in the way of pull force.

I ran into the same problem you did with the need to put a cable stop on a new super long throttle. For stainless steel cables you should ideally use silver solder for the best ends, but I just grabbed a tube of mold-able weld stick.
It only takes a tiny bit to form a small nub on the end of the cable. The I filed down the nub until it slid into the slot on the engine side.

I pulled on the nub as hard as I could with my bare hands after it was dry and it didn't budge, so I have no fears it will come off.
 
Hi scylla,

Thanks for your input. Have you actually rode your bike much with the nobbie thing you put on?

If it's stood the test of time, I'm certainly game.

Best,

Mary
 
Hi scylla,

"If I'm understanding you correctly, I believe you just put the little cable end on. Those are just to keep the end of your cable from fraying. They won't hold much in the way of pull force."

Yes, that's what I was talking about.

"I ran into the same problem you did with the need to put a cable stop on a new super long throttle. For stainless steel cables you should ideally use silver solder for the best ends,..."

I spoke to a manager at Radio Shack and he told me silver solder is too soft and won't hold. The cable is stainless steel.

Thanks,

Mary
 
Mary said:
Hi scylla,

Thanks for your input. Have you actually rode your bike much with the nobbie thing you put on?

If it's stood the test of time, I'm certainly game.

Best,

Mary
Click to expand...

Well, there isn't really a need for a time test because if it won't pull off with the brute force of my hands then the little bit of force applied by a throttle cable is unlikely to pull it off.

It is really easy to do, but slightly time consuming to file the nub down to the proper size. It took me about 20 min to complete the project.
JB weld stick is the name of the product. You can get it at any auto parts store.
 
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