Freewheel Transmission Sprocket

So, I currently have the 144F with belt drive transmission and stock transmission sprocket, I think it's a 10T. I have a 36T rear sprocket and I weigh about 265lbs. On a long straight away I hit about 25ish mph. But I live in a hilly east texas town and after about 40 miles, I already hear the clutch scraping when pushing the bike, the clutch does still engage.

Is that a good setup or what changes could be made. It seems like a 16T transmission sprocket (if it fits) would help lower my gear ratio by a lot.
Are you using 26" wheels? Is your transmission a 80 or 100?
 
Yes 26" wheels. Not sure on the transmission. What do I look at to find out?
The teeth count on the large pulley in the transmission. Most likely if you bought a kit on eBay or Amazon it's a 100.

I have a shifter bike. My max hp is at 7000 rpm. If on level ground I'm doing 7000 rpm at full throttle, shifting to a higher gear won't make me go any faster. My speed will remain the same but the load will be increased on the engine causing the rpm to drop.

On your engine max hp is at 6800 rpm. If you're doing 25 mph at full throttle on level ground with your 36t setup the engine is turning around 5800 rpm. Meaning it's over loaded. A 44t would get you around 6800 rpm and a speed of 24 mph. A 48t would get you a speed of 22 mph at 6800 rpm.

You need to at least get a 44t if the hills are steep you need a 48t. The formula is simple a large person, steep hills, and small engine means you need mutiple engine driven gears; ie... a shifter bike.
 
People who constantly use profanity are generally very narrow minded know it alls. Who you can't tell them anything. Even when they're right about something they sound ignorant.

A freewheel in the sprocket location certainly doesn't hurt but a drive sprocket isn't the main culprit causing clutch wear. What causes clutch wear is overloading it. For example going up a steep hill with too high of a gear ratio. If the clutch is partly engaged upon completely releasing the throttle it means the engine idle is set too high for the springs being used in the clutch.

Oh and that transmission he's using is garbage.
Jerry, what makes this belt drive trany "garbage"? other than the fact that the clutch is a propriatory item that you can't buy anywhere. I have seen no problem with mine.
 
What % grade do you define as steep?
Are you carrying an extra 100 lbs of weight?
Do you use a tachometer?
Sorry, the hill is about a 30* angle, and no, I don't have a tach. I think our weight is the big difference here because I can accelerate all the way to the top from a dead stop. I don't remember the hills in east Texas as beeing all that steep.
 
The teeth count on the large pulley in the transmission. Most likely if you bought a kit on eBay or Amazon it's a 100.

I have a shifter bike. My max hp is at 7000 rpm. If on level ground I'm doing 7000 rpm at full throttle, shifting to a higher gear won't make me go any faster. My speed will remain the same but the load will be increased on the engine causing the rpm to drop.

On your engine max hp is at 6800 rpm. If you're doing 25 mph at full throttle on level ground with your 36t setup the engine is turning around 5800 rpm. Meaning it's over loaded. A 44t would get you around 6800 rpm and a speed of 24 mph. A 48t would get you a speed of 22 mph at 6800 rpm.

You need to at least get a 44t if the hills are steep you need a 48t. The formula is simple a large person, steep hills, and small engine means you need mutiple engine driven gears; ie... a shifter bike.

It's an Ebay special. Great.... that's a new sprocket too for the rear. Lol. I'll look to see what I can find in a 44T for rear hub mounted.

I do appreciate you taking the time to explain all that. Thank you
 
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