gear oil in Staton gearbox ?

Discussion in 'Rack Mounted Engines' started by DetonatorTuning, Aug 30, 2008.

  1. DetonatorTuning

    DetonatorTuning Active Member

    the gear box comes with grease which in many if not most cases is just fine, in others somrhing else might be desired.

    who is using gear oil in their Staton box, how much, with or as a replacement for the grease ?

    thanks,
    steve
     

  2. kerf

    kerf Guest

    One tube of Statons gear box grease + 1-1 1/2 oz 90 weight gear oil. So far no clutch issues but a small bead of lube around the output shaft. I also sealed the box with RTV to prevent " weeping".
     
  3. DetonatorTuning

    DetonatorTuning Active Member

    thanks kerf, since i 'm running verticle i don't see much chance of clutch issues, but i am kind of concerned about the output shaft.

    this lube issue may could force me back to horiz. configuration, we'll see.

    steve
     
  4. DetonatorTuning

    DetonatorTuning Active Member

    no one else, many, many Staton owners and 1 guy is using supplimental or full replacement gear oil for lube ?

    talk to me guys, i'm getting tired of taking chances !!

    thanks,
    steve
     
  5. kerf

    kerf Guest

    Face it Steve, we're alone here.
     
  6. DetonatorTuning

    DetonatorTuning Active Member

    i say "heffer hempballs".

    this place is spoiling with people that chant "Staton" in every thread they can.

    i have a Staton now too, the product is VERY well made and will surely last a LONG time but, surely more people look to optimise and improve the functionality of even what they consider to be the best of systems ?

    steve
     
  7. MotorBicycleRacing

    MotorBicycleRacing Well-Known Member

    Hey Steve
    Do you want to elaborate on your earlier coment of hating your new staton chain drive?
    I guess that you didn't get to ride it for long before you blew your motor though
    Thanks
     
  8. DetonatorTuning

    DetonatorTuning Active Member

    yes, thanks for reminding me.

    i sat here soon after that and wrote an explanation much like the correction i wrote about "oil" being involved in my engine failure and the 'clutch drum" comment that caused such uproar, but appearantly i never pushed submit.

    as usual, i was hurrying to get the initial configuation together. a bad habit.

    i had rushed installing the new clutch drum and overloaded the shaft bearings. i had made a rushed attempt to salvage my original motormounts and not achieved a nearly close enough chain line. i was using a brand new chain that stretched like crazy. all this made a ton of noise AND my engine was running destructively lean and down on topend power.

    i've corrected all this and will reassemble my engine with the stock exhaust on Monday. i've gotten some good tips on smoothing the chain and gear box operation and am working my way thru them. in the end i'll have a very reliable setup, it remains to be seen if it will ever be as fast, smooth and quiet as the GEBE was.

    i still have my original dual belt jackshaft plans i can work on if i decide to.

    steve
     
  9. Hardcarve1

    Hardcarve1 Guest

    I moved over from grease to just plain engine oil. I did use gear box oil but did notice a slight power loss. I tried gasket goo but suffered small leaks so I went and made my own gaskets that work just fine now. I also added a breather vent as my Honda 50 puts a lot of heat into the gear box.

    I use only 100ml of oil and find it sprays around and coats all the gears.

    Alex
     
  10. DetonatorTuning

    DetonatorTuning Active Member

    thanks for the reply, as you see this isn't the fastest paced thread on the forum LOL

    i'll take the engine oil into consideration, i'm using the gear box mounted in a verticle position so have to be careful of how thin of stuff i put in there and how deep i fill it. i don't know if the output shaft grease seals will hold it in there esp. when it's just sitting.

    steve
     
  11. kerf

    kerf Guest

    I would keep the oil level below the O/P shaft.
     
  12. DetonatorTuning

    DetonatorTuning Active Member

    well i opened the gear box and confirmed my concerns. even with some gear oil in there with the grease, it was all just slumping to the bottom and clogging the output shaft gear and surrounding space, making it harder for that gear to move AND leaving the input gear much drier than i want.

    so i measured the area inside and filled a like sized spray bottle with gear oil then transfered that into the sealed gearbox. it should be filled right up to the lower edge of the output shaft grease seal.

    quick ride showed smoother / faster acceleration and better speed at marked throttle opening than with the grease.

    we'll see if it stays in there.

    steve
     
  13. kerf

    kerf Guest

    Roger, Kerf standing by.
     
  14. DetonatorTuning

    DetonatorTuning Active Member

    ok, did a few more heat cycle runs tonight. seems to be going alright.

    came back to the house and noticed a scuff mark on the left sidewall of my tire. looked under the engine and the whole rack had moved laterally to the right and the output shaft was bouncing against the tire !!

    i yanked it back over and found that when i did the chain tightened up some (probably from the chain line moving slightly off ) AND the right side adjuster bolts came up out of the tubes about 1/4-3/8". so i dialed down those nuts to compensate for this, then balanced it all out to get the chain tension i wanted.

    i WAS going to ride it to work tomorrow, but i can't trust it yet, i need to KNOW it's going to stay where i set it and not be moving around and causing me to crash.

    clamped the front wheel in the service lift tire vise and jacked it up under the bottom bracket, took one of the now "top" gear box face "plugs" out and ran it, to see what the gear oil was doing. clearly saw the lube flying up over and off the input gear, so it's climbing and coating the gears very well indeed. no leaks yet and no new loss from the output shaft behind the output sprocket (freewheel in my case).

    i really need to get my header back together, then if i manage to get the bugs out i'll be happy till spring.

    steve
     
  15. kerf

    kerf Guest

    On mine, after all the chain adjustments were made, I drilled a 5/64" hole through the support strut and thumb screw, then inserted a 1/8" roll pin. I then adjusted the nut to pull the roll pin tight. When I would hit bumps, I could hear the engine/gear box bounce a little. I didn't like that.
     
  16. DetonatorTuning

    DetonatorTuning Active Member

    kerf, please put up a pic of that arrangement, it seems like you wouldn't be able to make any further adjustments for/ to the chain.

    thanks,
    steve
     
  17. kerf

    kerf Guest

    That's right but I don't need to, idler, remember.
     
  18. DetonatorTuning

    DetonatorTuning Active Member

    yeah, that's another reason i need one of those.

    thanks,
    steve
     
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