How do I install 1" springer forks into a 1 1/8" h

Discussion in 'Bicycle Repair' started by go you good thing, Jul 5, 2007.

  1. I have tried all the local bike shops and can not get 1 1/8" threaded springer forks for my cruiser :sad:

    I can get 1" from a number of them but they don't have any type of converter headset kit (some say you could get them years ago).

    Has anyone done anything like this?

    I can get a a headset custom lathed but this could problematic as I don't own a lathe myself.

    I also thought that I could maybe insert a sleeve into the head of the frame with a 1 1/8" outer diameter and 1" inside diameter.

    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. :?
     

  2. retro_racer

    retro_racer Guest

    This might sound stupid but here go's.Dose the new fork come with a head set(bearings,race's)? I'm thinking there isn't that big of a problem.I'm using a 1 1/8 tree in my standard normaly 1 inch frame.I'm using the 1 inch frame cups,but all the other parts are from the 1 1/8 forks.It works alot smoother than the old 1 inch set ever did.I had to use a diegrinder to open up the frame tube alittle.
    My frame had the smaller tubes pushed through the head,and a plate attached then all brazed togeither.I simply ground alittle of the extra tube out of the head to let the forks clear better.I didn't care for the little rubbing noise it made,and it had a small bind at a full turn.The grinding fixed that,and it works great.
    I'm thinking the old cups,and the new fork parts should be just the reverse of what I did.At worst what you buy a different set of bearings maybe.I have some extra parts so I usualy mix,and match cups,races,and bearings for what I want.
     
  3. Thanks retro_racer, I do need to buy a new set but I am told that the size I need is no longer available here in OZ. I will however start looking around at old bikes to see if anything shows up.

    Your success however has given me hope :smile:
     
  4. papa

    papa Guest

    Re: How do I install 1" springer forks into a 1 1/8&quo

    Here ya go: http://www.choppersus.com/store/product/635/Headtube-Reducer-1-1-8-to-1"/

    These are not uncommon so shop around for the best price.
     
  5. Many thanks papa.

    I did search the net for this very thing but could not find it?????

    I have just sent a message to them on their website too see if they ship to Australia so will have to wait and see.

    I still cant beleive that we can not get this type of thing here!!!

    Thanks again.
     
  6. Chopper

    Chopper Guest

    hey goody, it's a global marketplace mate, I know your frustration, but anything you need is usually just a mouseclick away!.... provided you can find it of course ;)
     
  7. True, they also have the springer in the threaded 1 1/8....just what I need but I guess the shipping may blow out on that purchase.

    I will have to wait and see what their reply is.

    Getting the complete fork in the correct size will save me having to buy the 1" head set so it may be worth it :???:

    Chopper did your forks come on your bike and what size/type are they?
     
  8. papa

    papa Guest

    There is another way...

    You can telescope a stick of 1-1/8" OD X .058" wall tubing over your existing 1" steerer tube - just enough clearance to silver braze the two together. I usually drill a couple of small 1/8" holes (180 apart) in the larger, 1-1/8" tube, about mid-way, then feed a little Safety-Silv 56 between the two.
     
  9. Thanks papa,

    Please tell the prodical son what Safety-Silv is and does??

    I actually prefer this option as it is simple and I can get the tube easy.

    Can I braze iron and aluminium together??? (please help locowelder).
     
  10. papa

    papa Guest

    Re: How do I install 1" springer forks into a 1 1/8&amp

    Safety-Silv is Harris's fancy name for silver content brazing rod. "56" means 56% silver. Turns liquid around 1200 degrees - which coincidently, is about the same temperature 6061 aluminum goes liquid. Safety-Silv 45 would also work (and is easier to find), but doesn't exibit as good a capillary attraction (penetration within minimal clearances) as 56 does. Standard LFB (Low Fuming Bronze) or more commonly referred to as 'standard brazing rod', won't penetrate sufficently between the close fitting tubes - just isn't enough clearance. I use bare rod with paste flux, but for a one-off project you can buy a single 18" stick of flux coated rod. You needn't worry about the strength of 56 (or 45) silver,.. its tensile strength is between 65,000 and 70,000 psi. However!.. it's a tad spendy so don't waste any.

    Too many differences between aluminum and iron to 'braze' the two together with any usable success.
     
  11. Ok papa,

    Can I get the tube in aluminium?

    If so would I braze them together still?
     
  12. papa

    papa Guest

    I'm not clear about your question.

    Generally speaking, if either (or both) tubes are composed of aluminum, you'd be wise NOT to try and weld, braze or otherwise use heat because you risk annealing them - which would substantially reduce its strength. And it doesn't take much heat to do it - about 400F.

    If the original 1" steer tube is steel, and the larger 1-1/8" tube is also steel, then you have the option of silver brazing the two together (as I previously stated), without seriously degrading the steer tube's strength.
     
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