kinda lost. help with my built. thanks

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by ballermj23, Nov 27, 2009.

  1. ballermj23

    ballermj23 New Member

    i just got my 80cc kit 2 stroke

    so i was reading the manual but i have unanswered questions.

    1: oil... where do i put? what time and buy it. please explain

    2: does do i go about breaking in the engine.


    i will have more question later i guess..

    thank you, for talking time to read / answer my question.
     

  2. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    the oil gets mixed with the gas. you need to get 2 cycle oil, and mix it with the gas before you put it in the gas tank. there is no need to put oil into the crank case of the engine. 2 strokes get their bearing lubrication fro the 2 cycle oil that's mixed in the gas. whetever you do, DO NOT run straight gas in this engine....it will lock up because there will not be any lubrication.

    to break in the engine, you will need to run a fuel / oil ratio of 16:1. it will smoke a lot out of the exhaust and it will probably drip oil out of the exhaust too, but that's normal. you are putting a lot of oil through the engine to seat the rings. when you buy a bottle of 2 cycle oil, MOST bottles have a mixing ratio measurement thing on the side of the bottle, so you know how many ounces of oil to mix with one gallon of gas to get the desired ratio. you can pretty much buy 2 cycle oil anywhere these days. there are several brands to choose from and synthetic 2 cycle oil is the way to go in my opinion. 16:1 is 16 parts gas to 1 part oil..so there is a lot of oil in that one part gas. i think they say to run the gas/oil ratio at 16:1 for like 300 miles but i'm not positive. they also say to vary the engine's rpms while riding it (don't hold it at a certain rpm for too long..you want to be on and off the gas while you ride. they also say not to go full throttle for awhile, and keep your speed down to like 10-15 mph so the engine doesn't over rev. after break in, you can lower the gas /oil ratio to 32:1 or so which is 32 parts gas to 1 part oil. (more gas per oil mix).
    if you do not understand this, you should read up on 2 cycle oil / gas ratios and stuff like that. if you don't run enough oil in the gas, you will burn up a bearing or cause the rings to wear really fast in the engine. if you run too much oil in the gas, the motor will run terrible...sometimes it will not run at all if there is too much oil.
    a lot of guys play with the gas/oil ratios to see how it affects performace but 16:1 is a good starting point in my opinion for break in. after break in, 32:1 should be fine.

    if someone reads this, and finds that i am wrong on any of this, please correct me.
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2009
  3. ballermj23

    ballermj23 New Member

    thanks... that cleared things out a lot. :idea: :cool:
     
  4. PaulFlorida

    PaulFlorida New Member

    Ok.. I just worked out the kinks on my first build. Here's what I learned:
     
  5. PaulFlorida

    PaulFlorida New Member

    1) Stay close to home- keep a screw driver and 10mm wrench on you. stuff loosens up. 2) The fuel shut off may fall apart. Use thread locker on it. 3) the chain will loosen quick! Be prepared to shorten it more. I use a motorcycle chain breaker 4) The Gaskets will blow out... at any time. Made my own. Permatex copper gasket maker on both sides of 'em before assembly 5) Clean everything first! I had DIRT in my motor. 5) Auto Zone and Ace hardware know me by name now. They're invaluable. 6) My new SBP exhaust rocks! It pulls waaay better than stock. 7) Have fun!!
     
  6. PaulFlorida

    PaulFlorida New Member

    oh there's more... 8) Lube the cables or they may fray/break 9) Your throttle may need a locator hole drilled in the handlebar. You WILL strip the bolt by not doing that. 10) My Ignition nut was way loose. Its under the left side cover. silicone the wires that go in there to keep out water/ moisture. 11) Greasing the clutch arm deal that presses the sprocket eases clutch effort. And make sure there is a small ammnt of play in the lever, so the clutch plates don't slip. 12) The only thing that needs to "break in" on thatse motors is the rings on the piston. That takes a tank of fuel to be safe. There isn't any other lubricated friction point that I know of that needs to seat. Motorpsycho is right on the money.
     
  7. AussieSteve

    AussieSteve Active Member

    Hi Paul,
    A tank of fuel? That's not run in - that's warmed up. 500km recommended.
    I pulled mine down a few days ago after 280km and the top ring has half bedded, the bottom looks like it was just fitted.
    Some will undoubtedly argue, but I'd suggest going easy for the full 500km, I reckon. It certainly can't hurt and will help ensure a longer engine life.
    ... Steve
     
  8. happycheapskate

    happycheapskate Active Member

    Why such long engine break in periods? I need to drive mine to work (20mi each way).

    Why can't i just drive it all the way there and back instead of killing it every 30 minutes?
     
  9. AussieSteve

    AussieSteve Active Member

    See above. The rings take ages to run in properly.

    During run-in, the engine might overheat and possibly seize if run for more than 30 minutes at a time.
    There have been plenty of posts on this in the past. You should try a search occasionally. Most of your questions will be answered without needing to post.

    ... Steve
     
  10. happycheapskate

    happycheapskate Active Member

    Aussie Steve, I searched and this thread was in results

    I think you know a lot about these so I just posted for anyone who cared to answer. Thanks for the tip.

    I need to use it for work, so if I have to kill it every 30 minutes even in the winter, how long should I wait before starting it again?


    Dang! Thats a long time!

    Answer: 500 km = 310.685 mi.
    OR 310 mi. and 1206.6 yd
     
  11. AussieSteve

    AussieSteve Active Member

    Let's use some common sense here. This is only a temperature issue. If the engine isn't very hot, there's no reason to stop. The recommended 30 minutes would be to allow for high ambient temperatures.
    In cold weather, you shouldn't need a cool-down after 30 min.
    Just run it in over Winter and there'll be no problems. By Summer it'll be run in.(I'm assuming you're in the Northern hemisphere.)

    Even in hot weather, a few minutes is all that's needed for the engine to cool down enough.

    ... Steve
     
  12. happycheapskate

    happycheapskate Active Member

    Thank you very much for the tip. I may become your fan after all. [​IMG]
    :cowboy: yes I live in North TX USA .

     
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