New Schwinn Project

Discussion in 'Frame Mounted Engines' started by bgem41, Mar 14, 2008.

  1. bgem41

    bgem41 Guest

    Hello MotBikers,
    After lurking and reading for almost 6 months, I have made my purchases, they are:
    The Shwinn Point Beach Cruiser arrived yesterday.
    Dax 65cc kit came today.
    Armidillo tires came today.
    Awaiting Simpsons chrome POO-POO pipe and headlight/ genset.

    Let the building BEGINN!!!! :grin::grin::grin::grin:

    I will keep posting as I proceed. I have my own ideas about a light and the wiring and will post as it proceeds on a separate thread. My main goal is to GGGEETT RRREEEAAADDY TO RRRIIIDDDEEE.


  2. mickey

    mickey Guest

    Rock On!
  3. motoschwinn

    motoschwinn Guest

    I have looked at this bike too. Please send pics and info of the building. I wish it was a three speed myself. Keep us informed!
  4. bgem41

    bgem41 Guest

    Impatience / OOOOOPS

    OK, I lied alittle bit.
    I went to a bike shop and brought home the Armidilo tires and heavey duty thorn resistant tubes. They did not arrive, I went and got them and brought them home for tomorrow's start on the build.

    Well, I had to open the bike box just to have a peek. OOOOOPS!!!!

    Next thing I know :shock:, the bike is out of the box, the front tire is off and the first Armidillo is 1/2 way on :shock:. I pulled out the tube and noticed that the stem looked funny :confused: and proceeded to continue until I pulled out the second tube just to check the valve stem. This one looked like the two on the original bike. I checked the boxes and discovered that the 32mm Presta valve does not look like the Schrader valves at all.

    Opinions on the Schrader vs the Presta valves? I want them to match and I think the Schraders are OK, but I don't know.

    I guess that the front tire will not have a tube in it for a little while 'till I get another in exchange. Meanwhile, much work needs to be done.

    Project 1: change rear tire and tube.
    P2: True and balance wheel
    P3: Install 44 tooth gear on rear wheel
    P4: Install both wheels and tune bike.

    I will stop at this. I have patience :rolleyes: 'till tomorrow.

    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 14, 2008
  5. bgem41

    bgem41 Guest

    Update 3/17/08

    Happy St. Pats to all,

    32mm presta valve was exchange for for a Schrader valve type. No problem. Next morning, rear tire was flat. Found hole in a seam in tube from the manufacturer. Getting another when the bike shop gets them in, 1-2 days. Hope this is not an indication of how things are going to go. 2 tubes and exchange both (???).

    Mounted Gear on rear wheel backwards. Read post here and realized it. Thank you.

    Dry run to mount the engine. Bicycle tube diameter 1.5". Clearance between inside of bolts on front mount of Dax 65 approx. 1.375. Need to do some figuring. Getting a length of 6mm x 1mm threaded stock to try to use included mounting plate for extra wide front frame tubes tomorrow. Suggestions?

    Slow start. The odessy continues.
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 17, 2008
  6. bgem41

    bgem41 Guest

    Progress to Date

    Hello All,
    If I can get the pickures to post, I will explain them.

    1. 1.5" tube does not fit 1.375" space between bolts.
    2. Drill and tap plate to fit down tube
    3. Insert bolt until two threads are exposed, Peen them over and center punch to hold in place.

    I ran a die over the threads where messed up from holding therm in a vise while peening and they did not break loose. I am confident that they will stay.


    Attached Files:

  7. bgem41

    bgem41 Guest


    Here are more photos:

    1. Adapter plate mounted to engine.
    2. The finished mount - double nutted front and back
    3. Engine bolted up tight
    4. Rear Gear - double nutted with nylon locking nuts

    My progress is rather slow, but I read alot on this forum before making the next move.

    Oh yeah, the jug just screamed to be painted.


    Attached Files:

  8. Esteban

    Esteban Active Member

    Looking very neat & well built , so far. Don't be too impatient, though. Take your time building it, read about other's mistakes & their corrections on this site,,, & make your project " built right, " the first time. I like that style bike !
  9. reclaimer

    reclaimer Guest

    I too like that style very much.

    The slow and cautious approach seems to be working for you. Cant wait to see a more complete build, don't hurry though. Looking good so far.
  10. Alaskavan

    Alaskavan Guest

    Lookin' good.
  11. bgem41

    bgem41 Guest

    This is a quick update. Progress is slow by some standards.

    Mickey: I'm rockin'
    MotoSchwinn: I am trying to post all that happens for everyone's knowledge. Hope it helps.
    Esteban and Reclaimer: Thank you for the words of encouragement about the pace of the build. Life gets in the way of excitement.
    Alaskavan: Thanks. Like your quote. - Thank you for the help and knowledge freely distributed. I learned to make Biodiesel from a forum. I am very happy to have you as a guide on this adventure.

    More pics and details to come.

  12. Ghost0

    Ghost0 Guest

    Nice build so far, keep it up. One observation so far. It appears your rear sprocket is not tight enough yet, potential spoke breakage.
  13. bgem41

    bgem41 Guest


    Please explain. :confused: What do you see that I don't or I don't know about. I am not aware of the torque specs needed, yet if you see something, I thank you in advance for telling me. I don't want the potential of breakage from them being either too tight or too loose.

  14. mickey

    mickey Guest

    I zoomed in on your pic and it looks like the lock washers are flat which is good.

    When in doubt, its better to end up being too tight rather than too loose. Tight will put a small crimp/bend in your spokes, which SS spokes should handle fine. Too loose and the bolts will continuously work against your spokes and break them, and quickly.


    I had all 9 pulling spokes break on one ride because I was too paranoid about tightening them.
  15. Ghost0

    Ghost0 Guest

    It is way better to overtighten then not tight enough. You should squish the you know what out of those doughnuts. I actually only use the inner one, it helps keep the sprocket true and it is easier to tell when you have it tight. It also helps with chain alignment.
  16. bgem41

    bgem41 Guest

    Flat lock washers

    Thanks for the replies.
    I did make sure that the lock washers were flattened out when I snugged them. I snugged them them and then spun the wheel for gear alignment both concentric and radially. I don't recall how much tighter I made them after alignment. I will check them to see. I was more concerned about bending the spokes and pulling the wheel off to that side after I trued it with the gear on the wheel. Should I have trued it first, then put the gear on?

    Like one old boy told me in the first machine shop I worked in," Make it as tight as you can and then give it another 1/2 turn (LOL)." With 6mm bolts that should not be too hard.

    No I won't strip them. If I do, I'll replace them with 1/4-20's or 1/4-28's. Should I do that anyhow?? Opinions??

    Thank you Mickey and Ghost0

  17. bgem41

    bgem41 Guest

    Rear gear and Carb

    Hello All,
    Ok, I have redone the rear gear with 1/4 - 28 nuts and bolts. Pics to be coming shortly.

    I have read about the red gasket that seems to fit the petcock for the gas tank as it does not seem to fit the carb very well.

    It has been mentioned about o-rings on the carb can someoone please point me to a thread if it necessary or what is meant about O-ringing the carb. Search has not come up with anything for o-ring+carbs, etc.


  18. azbill

    azbill Active Member

  19. bgem41

    bgem41 Guest

    Grommet or caulk???

    I am overdue for an update but work has taken me out of town. The slow but sure approach is still on track and progress is being made.

    Pics will be coming and solutions to problems will be described.

    azbil - Thanks for the thread. It has been used and pics to follow.

    Can someone point me to the thread about sealing the magneto. I know to keep water out, but how?? I have read some threads, but now I cannot find them. I guess that my understanding of the search function is limited. I apologize.

  20. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    for the magneto, I seal the cover with rtv silicone
    I also seal the hole where the wires come out of the engine